Scooby

try taking it to o'briens or someone else who does car windows. they are usually good at this.

Chris they are stock BOV. Had another go with the scanner and this time did see one AFM playing up, also got error code AFM1. Not sure whch is number so replaced the one that looked worst. Disconnected battery overnight, still getting error code AFM1 but no stalling etc on the run in. Will change other AFM and see what if any codes come up.

Thanks TurboX, AFMs have been cleaned, filters (paper air filter) are only 5000km old.

mine sits just above half and doesn't move, reaches operating temp after about 5 minutes of sedate driving

Guys; couple of days ago noticed brief lumpyness at idle for a few seconds on 2-3 occasions when driving home. last night going up a slight hill, 50km/h felt minor hesitation very briefly, went a bit doughey rather than sharp cut out ie more like fuel than elec. going to work this morning stalled once while coming to a stop restarted no problem, same hesitation underway but for longer and more often. driving this arvo same thing but longer again and more often, stalled twice coming to a stop. checked AFM voltage with a scanner when underway and both were fluctuating as normal, saw nothing strange there even when it was chucking a wobbly. i thought AFM but now i'm thinking fuel pump. any ideas? regards

Just wondering if anyone knows where they can match the grain perfectly. Lots of places do the process but can't find one that can grain match. Can't afford to get it wrong.

Lots of places will do this but does anyone know who can match the R32 GTR dash grain perfectly? Can't afford to get it wrong.

Thanks Mayhem it's really the crashpad I need.

PM coming your way.

Thanks SK, that makes sense. One last question; at what point (if there is one) does the transition occur in set up from greater front rate than rear rate (ie stock) to harder front rate than rear rate (as per what seems to be aftermarket) Regards

Can any one tell me who gave Gollum the keys to this website? Hmmmm?????

anyone?

Thanks SK, unless I'm missing something you've explained why the front springs are heavier than stock in aftermarket applications. But why then are stock springs softer in the front? Wally factor? Regards

Jayce / fat rat thanks guys sounds good, saw his sign today but looked like it might be more 'industrial', I guess not. Daniel interested in the details if you have them thank you

1. Try Geoff at Capital Injector Cleaning - see Jayce's post here for the number. He's been pretty good so far. 2. Sorry no. Prob would've if you'd have sold me that gear knob. LOL J/K.

looking to move these on, any takers? they have about 80% tread (100% depth = 6mm)

Dudes and Dudettes; know of any good ones? Regards

Guys; looking for these parts, only interested in stuff that's in excellent condition. Cheers

Guys; Many aftermarket springs seem to be heavier in the front than the rear for reasons ie - ENGINE is there - that make sense. However the stock spring rates are the opposite, the front is lighter than the rear. one explanation is that this reduces squat under acceleration, which also makes sense. Does anyone know for certain why this is? Regards

I've used Geoff and he's pretty good, mobile too. If it's the body leaking just get a 2nd hand one and have it tested, if it's the o ring he'll prob have them. For what he'll charge you to r and r them let him do it - straight forward but fiddly job.

Andrew the problem is that you probably got crap advice that there was a way of getting around the los of points. Gee, wouldn't that be novel from a Govt agency! Seems like they are saying that once you lost the points there should have been a suspension there and then and you probably shouldn't have been able to do the P off course. But something doesn't quite make sense. Why would they take so long to suspend you licence?????? I'd encourage you to pursue this and get all of the facts. Sometimes they screw up - might not have a record of your P off course etc. Best of luck

Guys; Thanks in anticipation about replies involving dogs and birds but what I really want to know is the life expectancy of an aftermarket cat? How can you tell if it's stuffed? What's the current replacement of choice for a 3-4 inch system, GTR with 300 rwkw? I've heard good things about the Magic cats. Cheers

Thanks SK, was hoping you'd join this thread. Very interesting about the N1 pump on road cars. From your comments can we safely say that: the standard pump doesn't cavitate unless rpm >9500 and therefore doesn't really need improvement in a road car the bleed hole on the RB26 is sufficient to get all of the air out or at least enough for the remaining air to have a negligible impact and therefore a swirl pot is not required in a road car Regards

Hi RPM, just to clarify (and with due respect to Michael's comments) what I've been referring to here is not an overheating issue. While some cars I've observed with these pumps were cured of overheating, not all overheated in the first place. But in all cases economy, driveability and power improved because of deaeration in tyhe jacket and no cavitation at the pump. My car actually ran warmer with the pump on but it was nearly impossible to get the thing to boil, even when we tried to drive the temp up. Micheal from memory the rengineered fill point is because of something being moved in the engine bay rather than inadequacy of the original one. Cheers

GTSpec; Sorry if this is simplistic but it really depends on your budget and what you want to do. You've said that ideally you don't want to upgrade the turbos; are you quite happy with the current performance and you understand the limitations of the ceramic units? On the other hand what you've had suggested to you is a fairly stout power package for a lot more money. Clearly there are economies of scale to be had if the motor is coming to peices anyway as, if you do the turbos now, you won't have to pay the $900 or so mentioned here earlier for r and r down the track. But if you don't want to ever up the power (unlikley?) don't bother. If you think that you may want more grunt later, a good approach may be to get a set of 2nd hand R34 N1s or rebuilt steel wheel standard turbos, about $3k ish, you can run them with the standard ecu and injectors. Add a set of Trust long dump pipes, about $1000 from Autobarn. That's $4k total, flick the boost restrictor out ($free) you should be able to have some nice power with the standard ecu. You've then achieved the economies of scale as there's nothing to be saved by doing injectors or the PFC while the car is apart. Down the track go for the PFC and inj/ pump if you need/want it. Just my thoughts.