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Scooby

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Everything posted by Scooby

  1. this morning about 0745 at Gull servo, Gunmetal R32 GTR
  2. Hi Nik; Well...you got my attention! Does this mean the misfire is fixed? Regards
  3. If it's the one I'm thinking of it belongs to a bloke I work with and I think it's a T78 from memory...monstrous, looks like an industrial exhaust fan
  4. Hi Guys; I'm intending to fit R34 N1s to an R32 GTR that currently has standard turbos. Any idea if this means extra plumbing of water lines? Regards
  5. Hi Phantom; Yes it does change idle speed when turning the wheel, I've witnessed this on a Snap On analyser similar to Consult
  6. Hi Drew; is the one in the 32 GTR Extreme also? Cheers
  7. Need one of these but has to be in excellent condition...not likely to find one but please PM me if you can help
  8. guys; thanks for the info. just wondering if these are the numbers on the part or numbers off the Nissan software? i was recently at Lennock Nissan in Canb and queried the number on a package as it didn't match up with the number on the microfiche diagram printout they gave me. their response was 'oh don't worry about trying to match the numbers because they don't' go figure... i thought i'd ask seeing that they are mercenary about parts ie ex Japan stuff can't be returned and they ask you to ID the part on the printout so the onus is on you to get it right...again, go figure. thanks
  9. AHHHH! Variation on Roll On Floor Laughing My Ass Off.
  10. Andrew; Have 4 Nik; No probs, they aren't going anywhere in a hurry
  11. i've heard silverwater auto services are very good, be prep to pay for it though.
  12. Anyone had consistently sluggish WARM idle when starting? ie fires/starts OK when warm, but only idles at 550-600 rpm, slowly builds to 950 over about 5 sec or so. Only happens when warm and left for about 10-15 min or more. Can shut it down and restart straight away fine. All usual suspects ie AFM, O2 sensors have been checked, ACC valve resistance is about .7 ohms over spec but is clean etc and AC actuation causes no grief to idle speed. Cold start no problem. Thanks for any feedback.
  13. ROLMFAO = Roll On Laughing My Floor Ass Off ??
  14. Hi Guys/Gals; Being a bit naughty by posting this here and not in FS, but only interested in local pickup so sorry if I upset anyone...I've got some Dunlop Direzza DZ02G tyres in 17x9 (255/45/17) that haven't seen a lot of work and as I don't do track days they're of no use to me (came on the wheels I bought). I understand these are a relatively new semi slick design and this model was used on the front of Richo's Targa Taz and NZ cars and others. Quoted price in Sydney for newies was about $500/corner, I'm open to reasonable offers through PM. Cheers
  15. Shan; sent you a PM asking for your account details so I can send money for one of these, have you received it yet?
  16. I think the problem is that the wiring can't handle the current load of a big pump like an 044hence the need for a new circuit.
  17. Hi Chef; do you have the dash ie crash pad? Don't need instruments etc. If so can you PM me pics and a price please. I need something that's in A1 cond. Thanks
  18. Really keen to see some shock dyno comparisons John so we can assess the quality for ourselves. Say against Bilsteins, Konis, Tein and Whiteline? Like you I've seen Tein and they were awful but to be fair I don't know what type/condition. I reckon you wouldn't be able to keep up with demand if they did well at least under road conditions, given the price. Cheers
  19. Hi Sherrif; Do you think the reverse may be true if warm idle at start up is really lazy? When started warm my 32 GTR fires and runs but revs are slow to build from about 550 - 950. Idles OK once they're at 950 though. Doesn't happen when cold. Cleaned ACC valve but no joy, any ideas?
  20. last night; SEXYGTST driving up the ridge road about 0800 this morning; wine red R33 female driver on Fyshick bypass bright yellow R33 on Dairy Flat Rd Black R33 on Morsehead Dve
  21. Hail? HAIL?? Don't be ridiculous, it's a trick. They are small alien space craft designed to splinter on impact and and spread the eggs of tiny creatures from the planet DOTARS that grow into 3m tall monsters that feed on Skylines. Drive for your lives!!! The God of Autosalon is our only hope. Time to get into those lycra overalls Jayce and frighten them all to death.
  22. clean silver R33, nice wheels at the Conv centre lights about 0800.
  23. um, is that a type of 'stake'? keep em "carmin" boys...he heh heh dead set, being on here is like 'sweeeming weeth thee peeranha'. one little slip...
  24. use the cat to bat away the hailstones as they near the car. bang smack meoOOOOOWWWWWWW
  25. SK; the people from whom I've sought advice, in suggesting that there are 'little things' you have to get right on a road car including those you've mentioned (wouldn't I have to change diff ratios and speedo recal with an RB30 anywayas it revs lower?) also suggested that there's a lot of machining work to be done - far more than a good RB26 build. I've read the RB30 thread and buggered if I can really see it but that might not mean much either. As I said it's difficult to find and gte access to people who have done this conversion on a GTR. AVO couldn't even give me a ballpark on the phone, I had to call them back a week later. re block issues, there are two things that I understand can be a problem. one is cracking due to greater torque/ torsional stress in a 4wd (they had no concerns in a 2wd) and the other, as Dror has found, is the $ to address this issue. which leads us back to the issue of 'while you can do it not everyone can, but you can't build me a motor and the people that we have access to, and can, want huge $'. yep I'd love to try it because I agree it makes such good sense and the torque - presumably - is quite awesome but at this point, for a 4wd road car seeking to make about 400 rwkw it doesn't seem viable/worth the angst to do the conversion. Cheers
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