Scooby

SK; Thanks, I've not seen anyone quote their experience with this conversion. Problem is that, as mentioned previously, while I agree it's a great idea (hence my interest) and YOU can do it, that doesn't mean that a lot of others can. And as you don't own a workshop I can't ask you to. Your position and a lot of others people's is very different in that respect. Re the RIPS girdle I sent a message to them on that subject and got no response. Agree your point re sellers of aftermarket gear but it gets back to the simple question of 'who doesn't have an aftermarket agenda and can do the job properly'. I have received advice from someone who runs a large outlet and has extensive experience with GTRs. I also know he won't try to sell me gear I don't need, and he said 'stay away' because it's not worth the grief of the detail to get it really right. Dror; My experience matches yours with advice from the better known workshops. Issues with block/girdle prep = big $ and when AVO says 'there's a lot to it if you want to get the little things right on a road car' you know it's going to hurt your wallet like hell. I've been quoted $15k to have it done properly drive in, drive out. Even taking off a bit for engine in/out and dissasembly by me it still seems like a lot when considering, as SK correctly pointed out, that RB 30 parts are often cheaper. Purple32; Thanks I'll try them I've heard Ben is very good. Appreciate the advice guys, thanks.

yesterday near the golf course on H'marsh Dr, black 32 GTSt heading towards F'wick. sorry was too busy gawking in the mirror because I thought there was a 'line behind me. saw 4 of the best tailights in the business disappearing and thought bugger, missed one.

the whole RB30 thing seems great as an alternative. more cubes, what could the problem be? 1. no problem in GTSt as I understand, but still seems to be relatively untried in GTRs and i've heard on an number of occasions that RB30 blocks can crack in 4 wd GTRs unless you spend big $ to prep them correctly. although I don't know SST his comment seems consistent with what I have heard. 2. what workshop can build a good RB26/30 in Australia? ie one that will last for years if street driven and thrashed occasionally. the ones I've spoken to ie ADVAN, AVO etc have all said that it's not as simple as it seems and to do it properly is an absolute heap of $, to the point that it makes the figures spoken of here for the 2.8 kit seem cheap. Better if you can spanner it yourself of course but then see 1. 3. I admire people who do what seems like a straightforward RB26/30 conversion but there seems to be a lot of questions unanswered - hence the HUGE number of posts on the RB30 conversion thread. don't get me wrong i'm sure some people can build great engines but there are still too many unknowns, making (I think) the 2.8 option better in the long run. Cheers

Hi there; this is exactly the type of build I'm going to do and the bost level I'm wanting to run with the exception that I have N1s. can I ask where you got it tuned please?

Hi there; can you please tell me: if it requires drilling the floorpan to fit (I'm thinking it prob does) how much of a difference it makes to handling? Thanks

eharrald; The standard baffle is more of a windage tray. Do a forum search on 'sump baffle' and get ready to read for a long time...basically oil surge=starvation= spun bearing and other really, really bad stuff in no time at all.

Pretty sure the lift and duration specs are on the Tomei website, accessed through the Hi Octane Racing site if neccessary.

Corey; just turn the ignition on and get pressure into the line because you'll want to check for leaks before firing the engine. the air will purge and while it might take a second while air gets out of the injectors and the line in total it should be almost instantaneous. don't forget you're dealing with quite a bit of pressure here.

My bet is that Sinista is referring to the deadly but good natured piss-taking that goes on here.

Car looks phat Sinista, didn't know you were mates with Shane Steele? Been friends with Shane for 17 years now. I was also at his birth.... so that would make me his DAD. LOL sorry guys, I find this very funny...

Yesterday Yellow R33 going past Shell Fyshwick towards the airport near Monaro Hwy. Waved and got one back. I was filling up and talking to Glen from DTS/Ming who arrived shortly before. He's a nice bloke, if he and Ed teamed up they would be unbeatable and still have more work than they could handle. We just need to figure out how to get him away from DTS. This morning Jayce of Autosalon fame, alongside. Ummmm...just wondering do they let you go to work in that dress or do you have to change out of it?

I've got used Dunlop 02Gs in 255/45/17 if you're interested. Check your PM.

They are significantly different, Google will get you sites for both and you'll see why straight away. The drawback with the Hyperdrive is that you get some pretty ordinary wheel/pedal stuff and if you've already got a wheel/pedal set you're paying for something you won't use.

I see the Trivia Gods are noticeably absent. C'mon fess up, how did it go?

Jerry had a red NSX in his garage a few weeks ago.

Neales Wheels in Sydney can do it, not sure of cost.

Gulsons if you can stand them?

You might like to try Lucas pads from Gavsport in Sydney. Alternatively Ferodo 2500 is a good compromise. If you are a pretty laid back driver don't go for performance pads whatever you do, they just won't bite as much as organic hipo street ones will.

Birnie; If you have stock shocks do not twiddle anything on the top unless the spring is compressed with a spring compressor tool. The nut you see screws onto a shaft that holds the spring hat that holds the spring. Unscrew this nut and the whole spring assembly gets loose, particulary if you drive it.

You've probably been there already but just in case you haven't you might wish to try the Jap wreckers. D1 Garage, Option 1 Garage, Jap M'sport etc have them from time to time. Like you my preference is for 'proper' rails. Some of the set ups I've seen people staking their life on are just plain scary.

This morning about 0745 heading into town on the Monaro, red R33 very clean.

Lucien; Congrats on getting the car. Whether it's 2 - 3 weeks or months I'd still just get something to get by with, frustrating as it may be. Even look for 2nd hand stuff. You'll need every dollar you can muster when the 18's arrive because the prices for anything decent will make you cry. You might like to get on the web and look for a tyre sizing chart - it will give you options for tyre sizes re rolling diameter although it looks like you might have done this already. The cheapest you'll find will be tyres that are made for something like Commodores and the like. Remember also that you prob won't get much for 2nd hand tyres no matter what they are if you are thinking of on-selling what you get now.

Yesterday arvo near the golf course on Hindmarsh R33 waved got one back Lunchtime today at Convention centre lights two guys in a blue-green R33 I waved they looked at me like I was from Mars - is it true that some people who drive Skylines don't know what other models look like? Also today about 1.30 black R33 at Civic Pool lights went down Allara St gave a wave got one back.

Guys; This is exactly the type of path that Julian Edgar took when he did his famous article for Autospeed. I think it's on here somewhere so a search under torque split controller should produce it. Details different approaches, pros and cons of each etc and gives a circuit for the configuration he settled on. Good luck.