Scooby

Yes I like them too. Do Isky make only one valve spring for the RB26?

Yes I am familiar with the saying, just my dry sense of humour that prompted the comment I made. Thanks for the info.

I don't see Sydneykid's point. I'm a pig and I quite like strawberries. Seriously what's a ballpark $ figure to cost effectively build an RB 26 or 25/30 like the one mentioned above and install it into an R32 GTR - if that's feasible? Are there any major compromises or big issues in doing this eg engine height or gearbox compatibility? Does it retain the twin turbo setup? I know there's a sticky on the site but it's very, very diverse. Seems like a great conversion and I can't understand why more people don't do it, although it may become apparent in the answer to the above.

the ever beautiful R34 N1's. Now...you're scaring me. exceed the limit of the spring rate, the inlet valves will stay open because of boost pressure. The result is neither pretty nor cheap to fix. You'd suggest replacing them at N1 friendly boost levels then? Do you have a recommendation? I would like to see the dyno graphs when it is done. No problem.

And presumably at that level you'd expect it to last for some time? cams are Poncams so I'm not intending to change valve springs don't intend head work because I don't want to remove the head sump, pump and oil return not planned as it's not going on the track turbos are R34 N1s got exhaust, Z32 AFM, PFC/boost kit, HKS Type R IC, adj pulleys etc sound OK? tell me if you think my assumptions are 'out' or there's a flaw in the plan.

Guys; the key phrases are; stock RB26 and good support systems . So...assuming that FMIC, bigger inj, turbos, PFC, boost (pump fuel) and the rest of the whole enchilada in terms of support systems including a good tune is present, but the engine retains stock internals, what would you recommend as a safe maximum AW power and torque figure ie one that will allow a stock engine to enjoy a long and happy life, bearing in mind that it isn't going to get hammered regularly because it's a daily driver and I don't want to go to jail. Hope that makes sense. Thanks

I've searched everwhere for this info on the site. For some reason can't find it but I'm sure it exists. Can someone please tell me what the safe limit of power and torque at all 4 wheels is for a standard RB26 with good support systems and a good tune? Car is a street driver, no track work so will see max power rarely. Thanks

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Well Yip Yah!! Of the two probs one - excessive cold running retardation - seems to be fixed. So far so good, 10/10 starts and it seems fine. The problem appears to have been an incorrectly adjusted TPS. Now it cold starts fine, goes straight to and stays at 1200 rpm or so for a while, and when it hits 60 deg C water temp there is no perceptible transition. At last. As for the hot start problem it's still there but I reckon its days are numbered now. At this stage I'm betting it still has something to do with the ATTESSA pump. On hot starts the revs still remain low - about 600 rpm - for a while and then build to about 950, they hit 950 almost exactly the same time as the pump stops running. Process takes about 5 sec. Almost as though the idle up for the pump, if there is one, isn't working. Will report back when I know more.

My bad, I was implying GTRs such as R34s which I think came standard with bb and water cooling or at least could be specified with N1s that have these features?

SK; Does that mean stock GTRs will have restrictors plumbed inline, or are you saying that the restrictor is a modification specifically built into GTR turbos?

ADM; search on the forum for previous posts by Sydneykid, he explains everything pretty much in detail. AFAIK the conversion is straightforward but the drive belt needs to be changed; another option might be to use the pulley off the 32 pump? Also the guys at SSS Automotive in Sydney have the details on this conversion. I have an R33 pump sitting in my shed ready to go onto a 32 GTR. Would be interested to know how you get on.

You might like to try Tempe or St George Tyre Service. They were about $100/corner cheaper than here for 255/45/17 Falkens.

now that kind of graffiti is more=good

Andrew; Have you had any luck in sorting this? Mark

If it only occurrs when you do the rears, and assuming the mc was reassembled corerectly, look for an obstruction in the rear circuit. There's only so many things this could be...

Penfold; Any luck with your mech on this? Mine is not having much luck.

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Was just speaking with Greg Nolan at NOLTEC in Sydney 9980 9777. He's the guy that originally developed and distributed nolathane suspension bushes etc in Australia, been around for years and always been involved in some type of car component engineering venture, which is his specialty. They are making a lot of gear for R32 GTRs and GTSs including rear cradle bushes, adj control arms, shock hats, sway bar links etc. No website yet. He's adamant (as you'd expect) that his products are better designed than some of the more popular branded stuff - for example he states that his cradle bushes stop both vertical and horizontal movement whereas some of the others stop only vertical movement - anyway I guess we'll be the judges of how good the stuff is. I have no interest in promoting NOLTEC, it's just another source people might wish to try, and Greg is very approachable.

Must've searched 10 times but can't find anthying on the site or the web. Does anyone know the AWKW figure for a stock R32 GTR? From memory it's about 170 AWKW? Thanks

Yes I did, $600 for bearing and seals, he wasn't sure about the price of syncros but said the whole box could be rebuilt for <$1k not including r and r. This inlcudes a mod to 4th gear synchro. He said it was the same box as VL which I questioned but then he said 'they go together the same'; I have no doubt there are similarities.

Thanks Jett

Can anyone share their experience with getting an R32 GTR gearbox recoed in Sydney? I'd also be interested in knowing about approximate costs and any suggested upgrades ie I heard late R33 synchros are worth including. Thanks for any help.