Scooby

I'm trying to establish whether OS make a clutch with a sprung centre and anti rattle. A post here states they make solid centre, sprung centre, and sprung with anti rattle in recommended for a road car. I decided on the sprung centre with anti rattle but the agent - Ottomotive - states that OS do not make this configuration. Others have found the same thing. Can anyone help?

You might want to try NOLTEC in Sydney 02 9980 9777. Greg Nolan is the same guy who first produced Nolathane bushes years ago so he's been around for a long time. They are producing a lot of Skyline stuff that's probably good quality and the prices appear reasonable. They make stuff that Whitleline doesn't such as adj front upper arms and they maintain that their rear camber kit is easier to adjust. They also state that their rear cradle bushes stop vertical and horizontal movement whereas the Whiteline ones stop only horizontal movement. Haven't used the stuff myself but I reckon it's worth a try.

Comments on both would be welcome.

Assuming other aspects of the cars were comparable, was the R34 GTT less responsive? Were the cams dialled in with pulleys?

Proof of the pudding. Assuming other aspects of the cars were comparable, did the cams contribute to lag in the R34 GTT?

This thread might be of interest: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42148

Thanks Penfold that was a great post. Checked most of this, no luck. The sudden 60 deg thing leads me to believe it's a sensor or ecu problem, however, the AAC has also attracted my suspicion although voltages etc check out. Mine has an intermittent start up caper that seems related - starts quickly and idles at 600 rpm building to 900 rpm over 5 secs hot or cold. Thing is the retardation occurs only when cold. When it starts cold and idles @ 950 the retardation doesn't happen however. Anyway...I've had it and I'm going to get Advan to see if they can find anything.

Mick; There's a shed load of material on this site that relates. Standard 32 GTR IC is good for at least 230kwatw as are standard AFM. 1 bar is recognised as roughly the safe limit for standard turbos but in short bursts only, some say less is the limit. Depending upon your tune a good tuner can extract more than an extra 20kw. If the tune is good turbos look to be your next step. Regards

Racebrakes make dogbone adapters to fit bigger discs using GTR calipers. They looked OK but wouldn't fit onto my GTR. I upgraded to DBA 5000 and, um, Bremboas (see Bremblos ref to prev) on the front with braided lines and Ferodo 2500 pads. Previously I'd had slotted discs with RB74 pads, tried ordinary Bendix Advance, car came with Lucas pads...was never happy with the feel. Now I'm grinning, confidence in the brakes is huge and the feel is amazing, only problem is the pads squeal like a stuck pig but 'we' are working on that. Can bounce the ABS at will, tyres are the limiting factor now; don't underestimate the effect of tyres on stopping. You could also try Porsche GT3 calipers if you can get them, AP would have a disc to suit but wheel size might be a problem there. Just my 2c worth.

Has anyone seen the absurdly placed revenue device (speed camera) on Lanyon Drive lately? Sprayed with black paint, sometime on the weekend I think. No it wasn't me. Viva the Revolution! I hate graffiti but like painted speed cameras. Bet they cleaned it up real fast. Has anyone seen others done over in a similar manner? Would be good to keep a tally here, nice to know some people are striking back.

Edit; Doh, I meant Ferodo pads

Andrew; I have the same problem. Drives me nuts. Squeals long and hard like a girl I once knew. Maybe her cuffs were too tight. Seriously, I have Brembos with DBA @2500s and they are really annoying when used in traffic. I don't believe rotor replacement is the answer as I installed skimmed DBA 5000s. Frankly I think it's ridiculous to sell these pads for a daily driver with no solution for the noise, as it is to try and justify it by saying 'it's the performance nature of the brake pads'. How many Ferraris, Porsches and Superbikes have you heard emit an ear piercing squeal when stopping at low speed? And the option of reducing the stopping distance so you can stand on the brakes to stop the noise isn't one I'm happy with. I don't accept these pads as being suitable for street use until the supplier comes up with a solution. My advice is to not accept the current situation. Having said that, my brake mech has suggested chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pads. If that doesn't stop it they're going back to AP where they came from, with a request to please explain; I asked about squealing and they said 'a bit' not 'a lot'. Regards, Mark

1. stiffer rear will create oversteer. spring rate depends on a number of things, weight dist included. sorry can't recommend but try whiteline 2. I'd try 'outide on the straights' and 'inside on the corners' on a cct this short

My 32 GTR takes the same as Commodore and WRX, it's a very common filter. I think the 33 GTR is the same. Anyone who sells the filter should know it's number because they're so common.

Minor, hard to see

Valvoline 75-85

Lucien; I've got a short shifter in a 32 GTR and 1-2 shifts can be notchy sometimes, usually when shifting quickly and accelerating hard. Low speed or pausing slightly between shifts smooths it out but the latter defeats the purpose of a short shifter. Pushing the shifter firmly to the left when changing sometimes helps also. It's very smooth everywhere else which makes the 1-2 shift really annoying. Does yours do the same? I was thinking about using some friction modifier - used to good effect in an RS Liberty for about 20k km now. Mark

I have the following for sale: Blitz SUS stainless mesh pod filters. One has a 20 mm split on the edge of one element fold and a 10 mm split on the fold next to it, can easily cover both with a 1/2 postage stamp sized piece of tape. Otherwise both are in good used condition. New price approx $220 ea, asking $260 for both or $130 for the damaged one and $150 for the undamaged one. HKS pod filter kit with brackets. Some corrosion on filter mesh, filters need cleaning. These were sold to me 2nd by a dealer as being for an R32 GTR but never fitted, if you buy make sure you know what you are getting. $150 R32 GTR front discs. RDA brand, 297mm, slotted, 5k km old. $350 pair. Buyer pays COD. Parts in Canberra. PM with email address for photos. Mark

Lucien; I run 17x9, 255 45 17 tyres and I doubt you'd get more than a 9.5/10 under the guards comfortably. I don't think rolling the guards will make a difference unless your car is low. Some advice I got was to try and pick a size that was popular ie SS Commodore in order to keep cost down through economies of scale. There might be compromises in doing this however. Mark

CAS looks fine. Did the same thing today, switched to normal suddenly @ exactly 61deg engine temp, was watching AFM v also but no change at the switching point. Will check out the other parameters tomorrow. Can't help but think it's temp related.

Thanks Guys; Did it again this morning - started OK and idled @ 20 deg, driving along slowly then dropped to 10 deg. This time however it would change when revved rather than being stuck on 10 deg no matter what, as it did yesterday. What I can't figure out is why the change to normal running is so sudden and happens almost exactly the same distance from home. Almost as though it's temp related. I'll pull off the CAS and see if there's anything out of order. Mark

Can anyone please suggest what might be causing the following problem; Usually the car starts from cold and runs fine. Occasionaly however, it starts and runs OK but but drives sluggishly, with barely perceptible surging/uneveness when driven gently ie approx 50 km/h 2200 rpm etc. Symptoms go suddenly - as if hitting a switch - and car runs very smoothly, slight but obvious acceleration also. Doesn't happen every morning but always happens the same way and goes suddenly within about 5 minutes of driving, like clockwork. Now...there's a clue. I've watched the timing and when this behaviour is absent, timing @ idle is 20 deg, timing at trailing throttle is about the same, goes to about 44 deg at cruise, decreases quickly under power. When it's playing up, timing starts at 20 deg @ but after moving off it sticks on 10 deg, won't change no matter what I do. Until...symptoms suddenly go and timing jumps to 20 deg etc at which time it acts normally. Seems clear that the sluggishness is retarded timing, and I can only think CAS related. Grateful for any suggestions Mark

Hi that was me - R32 - was nice to get a wave back! Mark