Scooby

Wesley you have sms. Cheers

Thanks for the PM Wesley, still looking for confirmed diameter and thickness measurements.

G'day Just wondering if anyone has been using these since the group buy and what the verdict is. Please PM if you don't want to say here. Cheers

Marko I had the same problem with the same shocks. I got rid of the pillow balls and just used normal spring hats, that sorted the knock. Then one of them started to knock again but this time due to a leak. Heasman's should be able to dyno them to see if they're working ok, if they are the 32 position ones we found on mine that only the last 16 positions worked.

PM sent. Are rotors etc interchangeable with AP or Alcon etc?

Hey Aleck any word on the exh pressure test? Cheers

Best wishes to Paul for a speedy recovery.

He could be getting bungs welded on to measure back pressure with a gauge but why bother. I went to an exh shop once to get some bungs welded on for that purpose as I didn't have access to a dyno, but the owner reckoned he had just the thing to measure back pressure and produced a pencil gauge with a needle fitting that he proceeded to stick into a tiny hole he drilled in the pipe while asking me to rev it. At this stage I was staying with him out of curiosity. After 3 goes he pronounced it free as a bird. Excellent (bollocks). When I did get to using the dyno I found the cat was costing me 20rwkw. That's the one Steveo. I removed the TT badge etc and cut the bracing. Bloody horrible but there wasn't another solution at the time (or one that I could find) and I'm not sure that's changed.

Bargain, nice work. Mine was the Grey 32 GTR.

Bargain, nice work. Mine was the Grey 32 GTR.

Hey Aleck Good to hear you're making progress. What did he do to fix the CAS mate? Keen to know as mine's in there with the same problem. Cheers

Nismo 600 purple tops? Prob still not big enough though.

not running 400rwkw but when I tested the R32 GTR box back to back with Blitz pods at 280 rwkw I lost about 20 rwkw. put the box back in, took the lid off and taped the panel filter in and the power came back. not consistent with the experience of others and both tests were done with bonnet up, but it's a big difference either way. front of box is now modified but haven't done back to back test with it in that config.

I think it's the other way round (see previous post re patent details of Nissan CAS signal processing) ie the Nissan ecu can read that many slots, the others can't and after an rpm point lose resolution hence the scatter ie they get overwhelmed. Bit like trying to keep focus on one individual blade on a spinning overhead fan, after a while most people lose it. Add more speed and you've got no hope. The other theory is mechanical ie movement in the pulleys, cas, and belt flop. What's not known is why some seem to have it and others don't. Of those that appear not to have it, it's conceivable that some actually do but it hasn't been picked up, or it has and its been tuned around. Then I've spoken to tuners that say they do check for it and some simply don't have it.

I think the reason that some people don't have too much regard for this is that there are RBs reliably spinning to 9k rpm everywhere and holding together nicely without a crank trigger. While no one doubts that scatter occurs, some scepticism is understandable in terms of whether money needs to be spent on a solution. Can your kit be fitted to an ATI damper and does it work in a stock config ie with a/c etc?

Gday Sean Ross make a kit, it's $2k or $3k fitted. How much is yours? Bring it on, the Ross set up is the only RB crank trigger kit I can find. Care to post a few pics?

+1

Quick update, used another CAS and got to 6k rpm before the scatter appeared. As per Jack's suggestion got in touch with Red R Racing, Paul was very helpful and is sending down a CAS with a 24 (?) slot trigger wheel to try so looking forward to the results. Will post again when results are known.

Good to see it sorted Chris

double post

The symptoms are described here in a thread from the Haltech forum: http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&p=28152 and here http://ljracing.co.nz/ Spoke to Haltech today, they said that their Platinum ecu has no problem handling the Nissan CAS signal but they're aware that some ecus do. Also read that somewhere that one got their hands on the patent for the Nissan CAS signal sensing and it was very impressive in terms of sophistication, so could probably work well with a 360 slot CAS trigger wheel. Also Mark from Godzilla was as always very helpful, he hasn't invested in the trigger disc solution but has heard of it and was talking to Speedtech NZ who apparently have trigger discs made up. Then it's just a matter of telling the ecu to run 12+1 or 24+1 depending upon the wheel. Irrspective of who's solution it is, modifying the CAS can't be much mre complicated than that as there's not much in there. Yeah Marko there's no doubt that CRD will know what to do, but I like to have some idea of what's being done to my car for future reference, no matter who does it, and at the moment they're not giving anything away. Respect their position but hey, it's my car. Richard you refer to a cheap fix but do you know anyone who actually does this in Sydney? Jack thanks for the tip re Red R, I'll get in touch. Aleck no mate that's for a full crank trigger system that's good probably good for 10k ish rpm plus. Hence why I'm after what appears to be cheap and effective solution.

Sounds promising, I'm betting Paul's solution and the CRD solution are one and the same since Paul used to get his Vipec tuned there.

The Unigroup one is the one they developed with Ross. $2k (plus $1k fitting). It's happening in my car and another on here at 5500, so well before high revs. I'm going to talk to CRD again today to see if I can find out more about what they do.

Could be specific ecus not liking the CAS signal, otherwise presumably it'd be present in all other set ups including stock and there'd be grenaded RB26s everwhere due to this. Googling suggests that makers of aftermarket CAS discs do it for reasons of a mismatch between aftermarket ecus and the CAS, and that's why I suspect CRD is using a different CAS wheel. Trent when you say 'most of the trigger issues' have you come across the problem and fixed it? I'm running a Vipec V44 plug in but would rather shell out for another ecu in preference to getting a crank trigger set up, if that'll fix the problem. But then there's probably a lot of big rpm engines using a Vipec with the stock CAS, not sure how they do it. Also not sure why mine has started having the problem suddenly. Paul did yours have it from the start or did it just appear?

Been Googling, seems that Motec know about it and for high rpm use recommend a crank trigger. However there's a lot of chatter about remanufactured CAS trigger wheels also. http://www.motec.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=644 http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69114 The cost of the Ross kit is prob largely due to the cost of the damper. Which is a bugger since I already have an ATI damper. Otherwise it would be tempting. A wheel can't be more than $500 and a trigger the same? Yavuz was happy for the car to go to CRD to have the CAS done, just need to know more about what they do. There's only so many things you can do to a CAS.