sn00p

2 Tickets We Love Sounds on this sunday at hordern

Engine mainly put in by myself and was tuned by Colins Auto Broadmedow Newcastle. Engineering details can help u with.. certificate not on me at moment.. Selling because i live in the centre of Sydney no reason for a car at this stage in life..Should be pushing around 170-80rwkw.. however not been dynoed.. Stock boost always has been.. stock turbo.. Has been driven hard at times.. never raced.. always looked after.. Cash only.. Call me to talk Numbers. Come check it out. you wont be dissapointed

Nissan 180sx 1991 Black Rego till november Everything on car engineered. Engine & Running Gear Complete Rb25det Conversion RB25 Gearbox RB25 Radiator Engine and Box 80000kms 5 Puck brass button clutch Turbo Back 3" Exhaust with Cannon K&N Pod Filter 300*400*75 FMIC Custom S/Steel Piping with Silicone joins HICAS Removed Splitfire Coilpacks (new) 5-stud conversion R33 front brake conversion S14 rear brakes R33 Brake Booster s14 Wheels Interior Type-X '180sx' front seats JVC KD-LH2000 Headunit 50*4 MP3 8" Rear speakers Amp Splitfire boost gauge Price $14000 ono Heres the pictures guys! http://img105.imageshack.us/my.php?...imgp04335wp.jpg http://img83.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp04341rw.jpg http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/6004/imgp04352mb.jpg http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3415/imgp04360bt.jpg http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/2276/imgp04379eu.jpg http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/9490/imgp04384ml.jpg http://img460.imageshack.us/img460/5518/imgp04396nm.jpg http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4863/imgp04401oy.jpg http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/7041/imgp04415fs.jpg Located Sydney CBD Please contact 0402 442 934 for enquires or email [email protected]

i have found one of the which is to the back right of the head, where is the other one located? Thanks, Ben

i have used the following instructions: posted on this site Originally Posted by jomsy quick rundown on how to do it, remove the following parts 1- fan shroud and engine fan, 2- intake cross over pipe, 3-leave intake manifold on head, just remove fuel hoses, and wiring, and some other hoses you will see then if you forget them when you lift of the head 4- crank angle sensor and covers and make index marks to put them back in the same place 5 all the belts, a/c , steer, alt 6- put motor on top dead center 7- remove balancer and lower cover breaker bar against the chassis and use the starter motor to crack the bolt which is 1-1/16 or 27mm, maKe SURE YOUR IGNITION PACK IS DISCONNECTED. 8- mark camgears and crank gear with liqud paper in (ie put a dot on the gear and on the belt) 9- loosen tensioner and remove belt the tensioner is a 14mm nut and needs an allen key to turn away far enough to remove tension and make it easy to reassemble 10- take of plug cover and rocker covers 11- drop the exhaust at the dump pipe or just use a 17mm open end spanner and remove the turbo from the manifold (4 nuts) and leave the manifold attached to the head 12- remove turbo feed hoses (the hardest bit of the whole job) then you can leave these on and the turbo will hang on the exhaust dump 13- you may have to remove the cams to get to the head bolts just check i can remember its not hard at top dead centre there are indents cast intop the cams to allow you to access the studs with a 10mm hex drive. Buy a good quality one. 14- remove head bolts 15- get someone to help you lift the head off, check nothing is still attached, ie hoses wiring small bolts 16- idealy get the head checked, get a razor blade and scrap away the old head gasket of head and block then sand it with some wet n dry cleanlyness is the key hear 17- wipe down with a clean rag and re assemble in the reverese order, just torque up the head bolts to correct tensionHead torque settings These are the specs I used on my last rebuild engines Head is torqued down in 5 stages. 1. 22ftlbs 2. 72ftlbs 3. slacken off 4. 22ftlbs 5. 75ftlbs I have undone all the 10mm hex studs where the cams are and can see the other one at the front driver side of the head but am not sure where the other bolts are located...I think they might be under the inlet manifold - Do I need to take inlet manifold off to get at these (whereever they may be)? Thanks, Ben

Do you have r32 grst front lower control arms. PLease email me @ [email protected] if you do thanks

wrxhoon searched under your name and also looked for that post, still no luck???

Yeh, t/ belt and w/pump are due for replacement thats why im doing them at the same time saves screwing around later on.

If you change your mind I will take the front hubs. Ben

Front hubs If you havent sold them I will buy. emailed and PM'd you. Ben

Im planning on changing head gasket this w/end as it is blown. Has anyone done this recently? Just trying to get a bit of info before I start it. So far I have headgasket, timing belt and water pump. Any other parts I have missed out on. Any tips/tricks that anyone knows of, anything I should look out for? Thanks. Ben

as title says $40 ono will cod or dd [email protected] 0402442934

Required asap please email me at [email protected] or ring @ 0402442934 Will pay 4 express post needed this week.

front stock struts and springs everything connected to brakes minus calipers and rotors stock ic piping wiper motor castor rods lhs and rhs control arms lhs ans rhs [email protected] 0402442934 please email or msg me offers if possible dont get much time to check on here Ben.

i have intercooler a/c condenser HICAS Steering Rack Assembly low pressure power steering hose newcastle nsw but will post. i need to get rid of this shit in my garage! 0402442934 [email protected]

i have just recently bought one from rolin automotive, cheapest your looking at will be 3.5k, and i wouldnt pay more than 4.5k bothe these prices must include brakes etc.

as topic says willing to cod or dd please contact me on 0402442934 sms/call will be fine or email [email protected] thanks, ben

Put washers under the bolts holding the bonnet up and possibly get some longer bolts if need be.

as topic says, any suitable [email protected] or pm me on here

RB20DET does not need modified mounts in S13, RB25DET does to enable the engine to sit lower so the bonnet can close. Neither does 25! I slightly modified my bonnet ribbing and my bonnet shuts fine. Will take pics soon if you like.

guilt-toy - yep i do i will pm you my number and you can come and pick up.

yeh fits for me all sweet. Just a bit of work to get it in connected to motor

sewid - no problems. I have cut directly infront of cam gears so I could get motor out easier. you are welcome to come and hack at what you want whenever. I will PM you my number to organise. nizmo101- yes got it but not sure if it works properly some of the buttons are stuck.

pics [email protected]

I have an rb25 box in my s13 (with rb25det)and it fits in the tunnel except you will need customgearbox mount and possibly modified tailshaft.