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RB26zcar

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About RB26zcar

  • Birthday 10/09/1966

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    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/74260zt/slideshow/rb26powered74zcar

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    Male
  • Location
    Louisiana

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  1. Its been a little over a year now and she's still running strong. I have to admitt a boo-boo I did, causing the oil problem I described in the beginning posts. I was having oil coming out the comp housings, and I discovered that I had hooked up a new oil catch can, but did not vent it. I ran a -10 line from each valve cover to the can only, and the can was not vented.... Doh So, once I discovered that little screw up, I opened up the catch can, and added a filtered vent and everything cleared up.... Just wanted to update this thread since I've been absent all this time. Later - and thanks for the help!
  2. Thats the exact set up I'm running.... Garrett 2876r's x2
  3. Thank you mate for showing my sump. Its for a rear sump app. though. I'm using a external oil pick up off my Greaddy oil pump. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3113163
  4. Cool then.... I'm good to go. I just put a adjustable valve on my oil inlet hoses to reduce the volume going into the turbos. I unhooked them while at idle and let them flow into a cup to measure the oil volume. It was quite abit still, even though I have the restrictors that come in the center section. After a few spirited runs, it has taken care of the excessive oil flow through the BB turbos...
  5. Humm... I would have thought my 8 ltr custom baffled pan would have been plenty of oil for a daily driver w/o track duty.... I find it kinda hard to "get it wrong" when it comes to installing a Tomei oil restrictor. BTW, I'm asking for advice about the Jun pumps gauge preasure, on average, not how well you think I advised myself on my build... Thank You!
  6. Thanks.... I guess its possible to adjust the pressure via the spring, correct?
  7. I'm in the process of running in my fresh rb26 motor and seem to have a pressure problem. I have a new electric AutoMeter oil pressure gauge installed, and after start up, it idles at aprox 75lbs. of pressure.... When I drive around, it peggs the needle at 100lbs. (max reading). I'm sure the pressure is going higher than 100lbs. Once warmed up to operating temp., the idle pressure settles at aprox 25lbs., but under boost, it stays at, or over 100lbs. I'm afraid this is to much, and I see oil coming out of my new Garrett 2540's comp housings.... Is this normal for the Jun pump to be that high of pressure? I have the Tomei oil restrictor installed in the block.
  8. I also have the HKS ez2 EBC. Can any body sugest how to hook it up to twins? I lost the paper work that came with it, and its been a year and a half since I had it hooked up to my last single set up.... Any help would be appreciated.
  9. If your crank looks like this one, its the early R32 short drive... This is the long drive
  10. Thank You Mik. Everything should be ok unless the HKS cams indeed use a 31mm base circle. In that case I'd need all new shims 0.5mm thicker... correct?
  11. ok, so you bought 24 new shims. Thanks, thats what I needed to know...
  12. I know all that.... I keep asking the same question but get answers to something else. I ask, from someone who knows, in general, do you have to buy all new shims when you install HKS step 2 cams on a stock unmolested head? I know I should check the clearnces "after" the cam swap. I'm trying to plan ahead and know if most that have done this ended up buying all new shims. thanks again - j.
  13. Reason I ask is I already installed a unknown brand of cams (264/9.7 - 256/9.7) and all the stock shims worked out perfect on that swap. I've heard of some cam makers keeping the base stock so that the stock shims do work. Just wondering if anyone has installed the HKS step 2 cams, and if so, did they need new shims....? thanks - j.
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