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I just threw a proflow fuel rail for an RB25 in the trash a few weeks ago. Leaked from the crush washer area on both ends where the AN fittings attach. Tried Earl's crush washers and it still didn't solve the problem with the leaking. Proflow claimed I was sent the wrong crush washers and that they were supposed to have sent stat-o-seals with the rail. I don't believe that was true they were just trying not to pay return shipping on the rail to have it replaced. Although the stat-o-seals stopped the leaking they weren't a proper fitment. I kept my HKS knockoff in favor of the proflow.

I've read that two runs is the best way to find the changeover point and I was positive 5000 rpms was the max you would want to change it over on stock cams that's why I threw that number out there. The base map actually had it deactivated at 5000 rpms but that is when it was making less power. I don't know if that was related or if something else was going on because somehow it gained power with it activated to red line. When we talked about the vct on the base map I misunderstood him and thought he said it was activated at 5000 rpms and he deactivated it but it was the opposite. It sucks that the tuner is an hour and a half away otherwise I could have been there and discussed all the settings the first time instead of having to take my car back.

Here is the latest dyno 336 whp 295 ft-lb torque. This is on a mustang dyno. This is the ve map which seems too flat. Here is the ignition map. I told him that the vct should be deactivated below 5000 rpms but I did a log and it is activated until 8000 rpms so this is probably where I'm losing some power now but I'm not sure how much that will add. I'm having some problems with my charging system but once that is fixed I'll take it back to get the higher cells retuned with the vct off and hopefully that will solve some of the problems. I have a log on adaptronics forum if anyone cares to look. Thanks.

Here is more about the holset turbos. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247809-holset-turbos/ I'm running a divided manifold. The turbo is not the limiting factor in my setup. HX35: The 8blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on 1995-1998 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 52 lb/min according to the compressor map. The bolton BEP housing (0.55 a/r) is enough to push the limit of the compressor. There's several 500whp 8blade hx35 cars out there with the bolt on housing. It reaches 20+psi by 3500rpms in 3rd with 272 cams. Smaller cams would equal a faster spool speed in most cases. The 7blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on the 1999-2002 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 60lb/min according to the compressor map and logged results from a member here. The bolton BEP housing with the hx35 turbine wheel do not SEAM to have enough flow to really reach the potential of 60lb/min. But many have logged over 50lb/min so far and seen 500whp. The stock hx35 12cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing is a t3 flange housing. This mated to a NON-divided runner manifold has produced a 132mph trap speed with a full weight 1g AWD. This is about 600whp. So the flow is there with the stock housing if you use a non-divided manifold. The spool speed of the 7blade hx35 is similar to the 8blade hx35 with 20+ psi by 3500rpms in the bolton housing and by 4000rpms with the stock housing with a non-divided manifold.

Air leaking between the intake manifold and the head could be a possibility but a boost leak test showed no leaks. The quest alternator is a common upgrade in the states because of the higher amp output. I had it rebuilt and they probably only replaced the brushes so I guess the voltage regulator could be on the way out. Ok so there are only two variants of the hx35 that are popular that came on the dodge diesel truck and those are what everyone uses. 7 blade or 8 blade. I'm using the 7 blade which will allow more power but both versions will get me where I expect to be.

Supposed to be similar to a gt35 I think. Plenty of people in the states get over 400 whp with this turbo.

I don't have a cat and I did remove the exhaust. That got it up to 290 whp.

From some of the dyno sheets I've seen with similar setups people are averaging around 420 whp with the same mount of boost I'm running. They we're around 300 at 5000 rpms so it seems like my car is making power fine until then and then it just stays at 290.

Here are some combined posts from another forum that are describing my problems. From other similar setups it seems that 400 whp should be acheivable. So my car is at a tuner and from what I can remember he said my car is only making 246 whp at 12 psi and when he bumps it up to 19 psi it is only making 275 whp. He said at 246 at 6000 rpms the curve goes flat and at 275 at 6000 rpms the hp falls off. He also said the torque is very low. He also said that he is removing more fuel than he should have to because the car is running rich at higher boost and rpms. He believes there may be a restriction in the intercooler or exhaust. This is what is done to my car: HX35 turbo I believe the intercooler is a 3" but he said it might be 2.5" Stock throttlebody 3" exhaust with a Y that goes to a qtp cutout and the other side to the stock muffler Freddy intake manifold 750cc injectors Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump NGK heat range 7 plugs that are new Adaptonic E420D No boost leaks Stock internals New oem coilpacks, rebuilt turbo, and compression is 170 on all cylinders. I thought I might have some blowby but the tuner said it shouldn't have power that low with some blowby. Today we bypassed the intercooler using straight pipe and that made no difference. Removed the exhaust and got up to 290 whp. Have a q45 throttle body laying around that we are going to try. I saw the dyno graph and it's at 5000 rpms that the power stops increasing and stays at 290 until 7000 rpms but the graph isn't a straight horizontal line during this period. The graph spikes up and down a little bit. The timing is correct and it sounds really good. I don't think the throttle body will make much of a difference but I don't have any other ideas. I never had the car dynoed when it had the stock turbo on it but I always felt like it didn't have much power at higher rpms kind of like what it is doing now. Kind of a lame video. I didn't tell the tuner I was recording so I wasn't going to take a video of him without his permission. I think everything sounds good unless someone has another opinion. Don't hear any misses or anything like that. Couple of quick questions. Does 290 whp seem in the ballpark for 5000 rpms with this setup? Also is it a possibility that the vct is bad and not deactivating? I guess when I check timing during a dyno pull that would eliminate a bad cas and vct. I'll do that tomorrow and report back. I also have a weird problem when the car is first started it has to be revved up to 2000 rpms a few times before the alternator starts charging. It is a quest alternator that I had rebuilt. Not sure if this is related at all just disclosing. Thanks for any help.

I believe what happened is I was sent 14.5 mm seals which is common for American domestic vehicles. RB25's apparently use 16 mm seals. The seller claims he sent the right size and they will expand when the rail is installed. I can't install it to check because my car is in a shop having a new downpipe made. This sounds like b.s. to me and the seller sent the wrong seals. Can anyone confirm that the seals are 16 mm uncompressed or fit snugly in this type of collar?

I've got some bosch ev14 injectors and I'm not satisfied with the fitment of my injector collars. There is about a 1.5 mm difference between the size of the collar and seal. I've tried looking for a larger seal but but haven't found any yet. I've also looked for collars with no luck. If any one has any suggestions let me know.

Thanks for the reassurance. Right now I'm just going to get it tuned with the stock setup but my plans are to switch to a larger turbo and 750cc injectors. Hopefully I can find a local tuner that is willing to help otherwise there is an adaptronic dealer and tuner about 400 miles from my location.

I just realised you have an rb20 so the sentra iacv may not work as I have a rb25. As far as idle goes I adjusted it up to 800-900 and it idles just fine with that idle may do well at lower rpms but I had to set mine higher because I have fans that draw a large load. However, I haven't tested it at very cold temperatures because the climate I live in is always pretty warm.

If you are talking about the black fast idle air control, then yes I have deleted mine with no problems. I used a consult to hold my idle steady and just used the iacv valve to adjust the idle. I actually used an iacv off a nissan sentra. It is basically the same except it doesn't have the line running to the ficd that I deleted. It only has the line that runs back to your piping.

I have a e420d and I think a tuner just lost my business. This ecu just like the plugin for the R33 uses wasted spark and semi-sequential injection. The tuner pretty much said this was a waste and I should run direct fire and sequential injection. I just want to get some opinions and see if it's really worth it to upgrade. I think this tuner just wants my money. He did kind of say in a smartass way that yes he could get my car running with this setup.