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I just threw a proflow fuel rail for an RB25 in the trash a few weeks ago. Leaked from the crush washer area on both ends where the AN fittings attach. Tried Earl's crush washers and it still didn't solve the problem with the leaking. Proflow claimed I was sent the wrong crush washers and that they were supposed to have sent stat-o-seals with the rail. I don't believe that was true they were just trying not to pay return shipping on the rail to have it replaced. Although the stat-o-seals stopped the leaking they weren't a proper fitment. I kept my HKS knockoff in favor of the proflow.

I've read that two runs is the best way to find the changeover point and I was positive 5000 rpms was the max you would want to change it over on stock cams that's why I threw that number out there. The base map actually had it deactivated at 5000 rpms but that is when it was making less power. I don't know if that was related or if something else was going on because somehow it gained power with it activated to red line. When we talked about the vct on the base map I misunderstood him and thought he said it was activated at 5000 rpms and he deactivated it but it was the opposite. It sucks that the tuner is an hour and a half away otherwise I could have been there and discussed all the settings the first time instead of having to take my car back.

Here is the latest dyno 336 whp 295 ft-lb torque. This is on a mustang dyno. This is the ve map which seems too flat. Here is the ignition map. I told him that the vct should be deactivated below 5000 rpms but I did a log and it is activated until 8000 rpms so this is probably where I'm losing some power now but I'm not sure how much that will add. I'm having some problems with my charging system but once that is fixed I'll take it back to get the higher cells retuned with the vct off and hopefully that will solve some of the problems. I have a log on adaptronics forum if anyone cares to look. Thanks.

Here is more about the holset turbos. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247809-holset-turbos/ I'm running a divided manifold. The turbo is not the limiting factor in my setup. HX35: The 8blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on 1995-1998 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 52 lb/min according to the compressor map. The bolton BEP housing (0.55 a/r) is enough to push the limit of the compressor. There's several 500whp 8blade hx35 cars out there with the bolt on housing. It reaches 20+psi by 3500rpms in 3rd with 272 cams. Smaller cams would equal a faster spool speed in most cases. The 7blade hx35 has a 56mm compressor inducer. This is found on the 1999-2002 cummins manual pickups. The compressor flows 60lb/min according to the compressor map and logged results from a member here. The bolton BEP housing with the hx35 turbine wheel do not SEAM to have enough flow to really reach the potential of 60lb/min. But many have logged over 50lb/min so far and seen 500whp. The stock hx35 12cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing is a t3 flange housing. This mated to a NON-divided runner manifold has produced a 132mph trap speed with a full weight 1g AWD. This is about 600whp. So the flow is there with the stock housing if you use a non-divided manifold. The spool speed of the 7blade hx35 is similar to the 8blade hx35 with 20+ psi by 3500rpms in the bolton housing and by 4000rpms with the stock housing with a non-divided manifold.

Air leaking between the intake manifold and the head could be a possibility but a boost leak test showed no leaks. The quest alternator is a common upgrade in the states because of the higher amp output. I had it rebuilt and they probably only replaced the brushes so I guess the voltage regulator could be on the way out. Ok so there are only two variants of the hx35 that are popular that came on the dodge diesel truck and those are what everyone uses. 7 blade or 8 blade. I'm using the 7 blade which will allow more power but both versions will get me where I expect to be.

Supposed to be similar to a gt35 I think. Plenty of people in the states get over 400 whp with this turbo.

I don't have a cat and I did remove the exhaust. That got it up to 290 whp.

From some of the dyno sheets I've seen with similar setups people are averaging around 420 whp with the same mount of boost I'm running. They we're around 300 at 5000 rpms so it seems like my car is making power fine until then and then it just stays at 290.

Here are some combined posts from another forum that are describing my problems. From other similar setups it seems that 400 whp should be acheivable. So my car is at a tuner and from what I can remember he said my car is only making 246 whp at 12 psi and when he bumps it up to 19 psi it is only making 275 whp. He said at 246 at 6000 rpms the curve goes flat and at 275 at 6000 rpms the hp falls off. He also said the torque is very low. He also said that he is removing more fuel than he should have to because the car is running rich at higher boost and rpms. He believes there may be a restriction in the intercooler or exhaust. This is what is done to my car: HX35 turbo I believe the intercooler is a 3" but he said it might be 2.5" Stock throttlebody 3" exhaust with a Y that goes to a qtp cutout and the other side to the stock muffler Freddy intake manifold 750cc injectors Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump NGK heat range 7 plugs that are new Adaptonic E420D No boost leaks Stock internals New oem coilpacks, rebuilt turbo, and compression is 170 on all cylinders. I thought I might have some blowby but the tuner said it shouldn't have power that low with some blowby. Today we bypassed the intercooler using straight pipe and that made no difference. Removed the exhaust and got up to 290 whp. Have a q45 throttle body laying around that we are going to try. I saw the dyno graph and it's at 5000 rpms that the power stops increasing and stays at 290 until 7000 rpms but the graph isn't a straight horizontal line during this period. The graph spikes up and down a little bit. The timing is correct and it sounds really good. I don't think the throttle body will make much of a difference but I don't have any other ideas. I never had the car dynoed when it had the stock turbo on it but I always felt like it didn't have much power at higher rpms kind of like what it is doing now. Kind of a lame video. I didn't tell the tuner I was recording so I wasn't going to take a video of him without his permission. I think everything sounds good unless someone has another opinion. Don't hear any misses or anything like that. Couple of quick questions. Does 290 whp seem in the ballpark for 5000 rpms with this setup? Also is it a possibility that the vct is bad and not deactivating? I guess when I check timing during a dyno pull that would eliminate a bad cas and vct. I'll do that tomorrow and report back. I also have a weird problem when the car is first started it has to be revved up to 2000 rpms a few times before the alternator starts charging. It is a quest alternator that I had rebuilt. Not sure if this is related at all just disclosing. Thanks for any help.

I believe what happened is I was sent 14.5 mm seals which is common for American domestic vehicles. RB25's apparently use 16 mm seals. The seller claims he sent the right size and they will expand when the rail is installed. I can't install it to check because my car is in a shop having a new downpipe made. This sounds like b.s. to me and the seller sent the wrong seals. Can anyone confirm that the seals are 16 mm uncompressed or fit snugly in this type of collar?

I've got some bosch ev14 injectors and I'm not satisfied with the fitment of my injector collars. There is about a 1.5 mm difference between the size of the collar and seal. I've tried looking for a larger seal but but haven't found any yet. I've also looked for collars with no luck. If any one has any suggestions let me know.

Thanks for the reassurance. Right now I'm just going to get it tuned with the stock setup but my plans are to switch to a larger turbo and 750cc injectors. Hopefully I can find a local tuner that is willing to help otherwise there is an adaptronic dealer and tuner about 400 miles from my location.

I just realised you have an rb20 so the sentra iacv may not work as I have a rb25. As far as idle goes I adjusted it up to 800-900 and it idles just fine with that idle may do well at lower rpms but I had to set mine higher because I have fans that draw a large load. However, I haven't tested it at very cold temperatures because the climate I live in is always pretty warm.

If you are talking about the black fast idle air control, then yes I have deleted mine with no problems. I used a consult to hold my idle steady and just used the iacv valve to adjust the idle. I actually used an iacv off a nissan sentra. It is basically the same except it doesn't have the line running to the ficd that I deleted. It only has the line that runs back to your piping.

I have a e420d and I think a tuner just lost my business. This ecu just like the plugin for the R33 uses wasted spark and semi-sequential injection. The tuner pretty much said this was a waste and I should run direct fire and sequential injection. I just want to get some opinions and see if it's really worth it to upgrade. I think this tuner just wants my money. He did kind of say in a smartass way that yes he could get my car running with this setup.

Just curious, as far as tuning goes, what other ecu does this compare to? Nobody around me has tuned an adaptronic before and if I give them a comparison they may be more willing to tune it. Thanks

Just did a boost leak test and it is leaking from the injectors. Since I have a crappy freddy the injectors never quite lined up and every time I installed the fuel rail I had to use the bolts to pull the rail into place. I guess after enough uninstalling and installing the threads were weakened. When I hit boost one of the bolts was ripped from the manifold unseating the first few injectors. So I'm going to helicoil temporarily but then it will be probably be a custom made intake manifold. Has anyone had any experience with building their own manifold and if so do you have any tips? Thanks

I'm not sure what I did but my car is running better but there is still a problem. It ran very well when it was cold and idled good as well. I drove it for about 15 minutes and it was up to operating temperature after about 5 minutes. This whole time it ran well and idled fine. However, when driving on the highway it had a slight hesitation and every time I stopped to idle it would die. When I would start it the only way to keep it running is to hold the throttle down. The hesitation progressively got worse and the idle was still messed up. I unscrewed the iacv screw almost all the way. This got me to 600 rpms but the idle would surge up and down and then even out and then it would eventually surge again. I am replacing the coolant temp sensor because I had a new one around and I'm going to replace the O2 sensor just because I haven't replaced it yet. Do you think one of these two items could have been my problem or do you think it is something else? Thanks

That is plugged as well. It's like figure 2 in this image.

The intake and valve covers are plugged where the pcv valve goes. The two hoses on the top run to a vented catch can. My compression is as follows: 1 - 180 2 - 180 3 - 160 4 - 180 5 - 160 6 - 180 This is with the engine cold and readings in psi. These are the sames results I had before and when I warmed the engine the 160's were about 170 and the rest were the same. I have also done a leak test with a cheap tester. At first it was showing 50% leakage on all cylinders but after some tweaking to the tool it reads 11-15% leakage. Everytime I test there is a little air coming out the dipstick. Is it normal for the rings to leak a little air? I did warm the car up for the leakdown test with the stock ecu and the plugs actually had a brown color to them for the first time. Before they were always black from running rich. I just got the adaptronic from a friend and before I spend money to tune it (dyno time is expensive here and no one has tuned an adaptronic in this area so I figured I will be paying extra for that) I want to make sure nothing else is wrong. I think even with my upgrades it should run better than it is. It would hesitate very bad when I had the stock ecu on before and was undriveable. It does seem to idle better than it did last time so after I double check everything and button it back up I will take it for a test drive.

I have both lines running to the catch can with a breather filter on the can. In this setup the gases can still escape without pressurizing the system.

I just did a boost leak test again and noticed air escaping from the valve cover breathers and the dipstick. I deleted the pcv and have the valve covers running to a catch can. So the only way I guess I can get positive crankcase pressure is blowby past the rings. I just used the leak down tester I have and it was showing about 50% leakage across all cylinders. I didn't warm up the engine which could lower the leakage and I was using a harbor freightcheap tool so it may not be accurate. But when I was testing there was plenty of air coming out the dipstick. So I guess every cylinder may have bad rings unless they are supposed to leak that bad when the motor is cold.

Plenty of people run the manifold and throttle body with stock ecu's. The engine still draws in the same amount of air. They may lose some power from its design but they don't have any problems with the way it runs.

Still running the stock maf on the stock ecu. The fpr is set to 43.5 psi. I have pressure tested the entire intake system and there aren't any leaks. I'm thinking that there might be a misfire but I'm not sure what could be causing it. Thanks for the clarification on the misfire and vacuum. I was wondering what would actually cause the vacuum to read low.

Here is a previous thread I had that may or may not contain useful information. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/397420-rb25-problems/ I did run a Nistune ecu for awhile and it ran smooth but still ran rich and didn't feel like it had much power. I ended up getting an Adaptronic and ditched the Nistune. Details first. Compression test was fine, boost leak tested and fixed leaks, maf was changed out with a working one, tps is new, new coilpacks and plugs, freddy intake manifold, q45 throttle body, and everything else is pretty much stock. I have also replaced the injector seals and tested the rail for any leaks. Now with the stock ecu my vacuum is at 20, idle is around 900, and the afrs are about 14-15 before I do anything. It actually idles smooth on startup but as soon as I rev it up a little it stumbles then smooths out some but the afrs stay around 12-13 after I let off the gas. Every once in a while it will stall after doing this. I haven't been able to take it out for a drive since I fixed the boost leaks but I have a feeling it will drive like it did before. Then it would surge and buck really bad throughout the rpms regardless of boost. The standalone I'm using is Adaptronics e420d. It has a map sensor that I'm using. When it is at idle the vacuum is at 14 and it idles like crap. The afrs are about 16-18 and most of the time when I rev it the engine stalls. Even though it has lean readings it smells very rich. I don't know if this is normal with the batch firing and wasted spark. Maybe it is misfiring causing the low vacuum? I still believe the problem exists somewhere else as I am having problems with the stock ecu. I have talked to a couple of shops near me that are supposed to be experts with rb25's but their solutions are to use the standalone to tune out any problems. I believe that I should get it running correctly before using the standalone to tune it. I'm looking for any help you can provide. Thanks