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I got my Nistune board installed today and it is not going into knock maps. I think the tp values are reading a load when there isn't one. I really don't know much about the tp values or what they should be at so any help would be appreciated. I have a Nistune log if anyone wants to look at it.

I'm using close to the equivalent of 98 RON. I got my Nistune license today and the board was shipped out so hopefully I get it by the weekend. I also found a thread by wlspn and he was producing the same injector times that I was at idle. I sent him a pm and his setup was almost the same as mine but he was using a larger turbo. I'm pretty confident that it is going into limp mode and maybe the Nistune can identify the problem so I can fix it or change the tune if need be.

Do the limp home maps make the car run so bad that it cuts out at low rpms? When driving around parking lots it will cut out and jerk pretty bad.

I did check the resistance on the knock sensors and they were around 500K without the car running. I have no idea what they are reading when it is running. Hopefully my Nistune board will come in the next few days and I can confirm that it is going into the limp home map.

I realized after I tested it that I used 1M ohm that was meant for the z32 ecu and then saw in the write up on here that it was supposed to be 500k ohm. My next question is even with the 1M ohm it idled fine at lower temperatures. It didn't start running rich until it was warmed up. Do the knock maps not activate until the engine has reached a certain temperature?

I used 1M ohm resistors. I wired one side of the resistor to the harness and the other to a ground.

I've already put resistors in place of the knock sensors. I also don't think it really has anything to do with how much boost I'm running because it is acting up at idle and when the car doesn't have boost. I'm thinking the ecu may be bad. The person I bought the swap from let it sit outside for 2 years and the ecu may have gotten wet and screwed something up. I just ordered a Nistune board to use with the z32 ecu. Hopefully that will help correct the problem or make it easier for me to diagnose.

It is made by a company called Wiring Specialties. It is one of their premade harnesses that uses all new wiring and made to fit my car specifically. When the car is idling fine the AFM is seeing close to 1.5 even though it is idling at 1400 rpms. The only thing that has been noticeably weird is the tps. I even hooked up the 5 volt directly to the ecu bypassing the harness and grounded it directly to the chassis.

I think that explains a lot. I guess it might be freaking out because it is getting such high voltages through the AFM at 800 rpm. About 2.5 volts. It is fine at first but as soon as it is given partial throttle for a split second everything goes wacko. I think this might be related to a problem the tps is having. I didn't state this before because it is acting normal for now. The tps has always had a good ground and 5 volts but the signal sometimes would drop to .15 volts closed and .5 volts fully open. I tried 4 different tps and even put a new one on. I don't know what would cause the signal to sometimes be fine and other times not. I do have to say this forum is awesome. It took one week for someone on another popular forum to respond and it was not helpful.

I thought it was going into rich and retard as well. I thought I could prevent this by tricking the knock sensors but that didn't work. My initial plan was to get Nistune and have both the knock and normal maps the same. However, the distributor for Nistune told me to try to fix it first. I actually went out and bought a z32 ecu today.

The Q45 tps uses the same as a series 1 tps. It is scaling fine and it actually has a brand new one on it.

I have tried the timing at both 15 and 20 with the same results. I put on the greddy style manifold and the q45 throttle body is a bolt on and that is why I used it. I'm using the q45 tps. I don't see how the manifold and throttle body can affect the ecu that much. The only problem I could see it causing is a little bit of lag since it is larger. The AFM is still reading all the air so I don't see why it would need a tune yet. I actually talked to a distributor over here about getting Nistune but he advised that I address the problem and fix it. He told me not to tune the problem out.

Not sure what you are saying. If you are suggesting that I changed the AFM I did not it has the stock one on it.

It runs the same when the bov is hooked up or not. I've seen plenty of setups that run a q45 throttle body and aftermarket manifold without any problems. It isn't like it is barely missing or anything it is not driveable. Base timing is set to 20 BTDC.

I'm using a synchronic bov but right now I have it bypassed so it is closed and not bleeding of any air.

I have run out of success on North American forums and I have searched through here and haven't quite found the answers I'm looking for. So here is my problem. I have a series 2 rb25 with greddy manifold, q45 throttle body, and I'm running 10 psi. I hooked it up to a consult program and when it is running ok the idle is at 1400 rpms, maf voltage is about 1.5, tps is .45, injection time is 2.5 ms, and my vacuum is at 20Hg. The afr reading fluctuates from 14.5 to 15.5. After i rev the engine a few times the afrs read 10. The idle fluctuates between 500-800, the maf reads 2.5 volts, tps remains the same, and the injection time jumps up to 7.5 ms. The vacuum also drops to 10Hg. The timing increases to about 35 BTDC when I rev the engine and when it drops back to idle the reading is between 5-10 BTDC. I've unplugged individual sensors and the only one that did anything was the maf. When it was unplugged the car would stall. Some more notes. I used 1M ohm 1/4 watt resistors to trick the knock sensors. Still nothing it keeps on dumping a ton of fuel and you can hear the maf actually sucking in more air. I've tried multiple mafs, tps's, and have checked the wiring numerous times. I did notice that when the car reached 115 degrees F or 46 degrees C it started acting up. The coolant sensor readings on the consult do agree with my aftermarket temperature sensor so I'm ruling out the coolant temp sensor unless someone else can suggest that it is bad. Thanks for any help.