aaronjod

I'll take the AFM and Airbox!

Yeah, has new D2 coil overs on it.

Changing the wheels has no effect. Have a completely different set on, and tried swapping F to R on the old ones. Had a look at the rack play, definitly isn't shagged. Might need to double check the tie rod bushs in the rear, havn't looked at them. I did have my front right CV rebuilt, is it possible the left is gone too and causing a vibration? I only did the front right because it was clicking under lock.

Need the peice as pictured. In Sydney..

Hey Guys, Got a 32GTR with a steering vibration. Seems to have had this issue from day i got it but i could barely notice it. Up around the 90-120 mark i get a bad vibration through the steering wheel. . It almost seems the get worse the longer i drive, but i can't tell 100%, its semi intermittent. Have an aftermarket Momo which came with the car. Also have HICAS Deleted with lock bar and all removed. It appears i have a R33 Power steer pump. It has a line going to the rack (Pressure) and a line coming from the reseviour connected to it, no other hicas etc. I have had: Wheels changed, Wheels balanced. Had a full wheel alignment done. Power steering fluid full, no leaks. Checked coilovers for loose bolts, suspension arms, adjustable camber arms. Wheel bearings are ok both sides, were done less than 2 yrs ago. I pulled the power steering pump off and inspected it. All the vanes look fine, and bearings/seals are good. All bushes are new in the front end, and steering rack ends don't have any play. I had the drivers side CV Rebuilt (had a click). All wheelnuts are the same, all there (New) and wheels studs OK. It almost feels like the wheels are going to fall off, but i've pulled over and checked many times. Where do i go next? Steering rack? any further tests i can try? If so, do i get it rebuilt, or can i buy a new one? Thanks Aaron

Were these sprayed out of a gun or a can?

Do you have the rear boot/fuel flap cable?

Okay, so I think I've figured most of it out, but still have a question or two. Stock GTR turbo specs: Compressor wheel: 42.5-60mm 50 trim O.42 A/R Turbine Wheel: 41.5-50.5 62 trim 0.48 A/R Turbos I have: Compressor wheel: 46.5-60mm 60 trim 0.42 Turbine wheel: 42-53.8mm 60 trim 0.42 So these have slightly bigger compressor wheels and slightly bigger exhaust wheels, but the exhaust trim is smaller? They are definitely steel wheel/ball bearing so this will be an upgrade too. With these specs, dropped onto a stock rb26 with injectors/cam gears/stock manifolds ported out/ aftermarket dumps/ fuel pump/power fc running high boost (20 psi? Should be ok because steel wheeled?) I was hoping for the 300kw? Are these capable? What effect would the smaller trim and similar to stock a/r have compared to say 34 N1/-7s? Will I see better response with less top end?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/276643-how-to-tell-the-difference-between-a-ceramic-and-steel-wheel-turbo/ According to that they're steel wheel...

Okay, pulled the exhaust housings off and here are the pics. Let me know if i need to measure and where..

When you say to fit the CHRA, what exactly do you mean? Like it was originally a thrust type turbo with the ball bearings fitted instead? I will pull the housings off tomorrow and measure. These turbos were supposed to be of a 8k old r33 N1 crate motor. I realise r33 n1 turbos are thrust type bu wast assured these were ball bearing, and according to the serial they are.

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/applications/ball_bearings_chraGT.php Was where i got the details from. All it has written on the plate of the turbo is BI 0144J then underneath 446179-29. But like i said .42 and .48. So these turbos are not similar to -7 or N1's and i would struggle to get 300kw?

Hey Guys, Got a question about a set of Turbos i bought. I was under the impression these are similar to -7's and good for 300kw. The serial is 446179-29. Upon googling, comes up as a GT2560. Stamped on the inside of the exhaust housing is .48 and on the outside of the compressor is .42. I figured this was the A/R. Now if its what i think, they're stock sizes for for stock GTR Turbos, not similar to -7's or R34 N1's. More like R34 standard turbos ? I realise they're ball bearing and steel wheel, so they're still an upgrade, but am i going to stuggle to get 300kw ? Is there something i'm missing? Do they have different sized wheels inside that will allow for 300kw ?

I went to a place called lager in Artarmon and they could supply the bearings/seals. Ask to talk to John.

Do you have the boot and fuel flap cable?

Do you have the rear boot and fuel cap cable?

Il give you 250 for the eboost

Hey guys, Just wondering what are the advantages of using a N1 block over std? How do you differentiate the two?

Oh, My ph number is 0412 508 903 ring to arrange a look.

I'll give you $450 PP

Hey guys, Got a set of Work Equipe wheels for sale. 17in by 9.5 inchs wide all round. Currently got Kumho Ecsta SPT 255/40/17 25% and Nankang Ultra Sport NS-2 35% tyres on. Offsets around +22? Not 100% but fit perfect on 32. One has a bit of rash, otherwise in good condition. Previous owner pulled them apart, powder coated the centres grey, and put them back together. Suit silver 32 GTR. Added some pics of them on a 32GTR. Chasing around $1000 Located in Parramatta Area.

It was at Penrith Krispy Kremes

Hey guys, Unfortunatley was out with a mate tonight and got defected at Penrith. Cops are everywhere out that way, and they have a full RTA inspection setup. Now issue is that he read 104 DB and the legal limit is 90. What we need is an exhaust to borrow to pass. We're happy to pickup/drop off and also swing some cash your way. If not, anybody know how we can make it legal easily and cheaply? Car has -5's and 2.8 stroker etc etc. Also he got defected on height and he has stock shocks/springs. Is there any adjustment from stock? Thanks, Aaron

Let me know if the sale falls through.

Just a question about how a particular setup works. When running a Apexi PowerFC with a hand controller and a seperate boost controller (Eboost2) and going from tune to tune, how does the computer tell? eg 3 setting, 1 at 25 PSI, one at 20 PSI and one at 15 PSI. Do you have to change the boost controller then select a different map on the Apexi or does it auto-compensate with the Air Flow Meters? Also how is adjustable cam tuning done? Obviosly they do it whilst on the dyno, but is it a matter of trial an error untill you get the best torque curve/turbo spool up?