seventhirteen

Nizmo_man, my 32 is stock with a boost controller and I get a sad 18-20L/100km. Dont know why it sucks so much fuel.

Hey guys, so I went the drags on wednesday and had some good runs but now my r32 gtr is blowing smoke on take off in the morning and I've come to the conclusion I will be needing to replace my turbos. My car is stock with just a boost controller fitted. So, I've been look at some replacements and not sure what to get. Im looking for a straight twin turbo bolt in kit that I will be able to get a bit of power out of in the future. I looked at the tomei arms kit and the garret kit but im not sure as im new to this what is good.

Alright cool thanks guys think ive made my discussion now and go with teins cause I wanna brand new.

Nizmo_man, ive actually wanted the bilstein/ohlins combo but I cant find the kit anywhere. If you could point me in the right direction I will most likely get them

Yeh I am leaning more towards the Teins cause people keep saying they are a lot smoother on the street which to be honest is what the car is gonna be mainly doing is my daily drive. Just wanna get a few more opinions in before I decide.

Okay well im still a bit struck between which one to get. Like I understand that the BC racing ER series is a bit more track orientated then the Teins but what I really want is just the better quality product. I just really dont want to skip quality on this car so if anyone can vouch for either brand to be of the better quality please let me know.

So ive come up with the cash to put towards a set of coilovers and im now stuck on which of these to get, BC racing ER series or TEIN super street damper series. The car in question is a 94 R32 GTR and my intention is mostly daily driven but im gonna get it on the track occasionally. So if anyone with experience with either of these can throw in their opinion that would be great, Thanks. Also is the TEIN EDFC worth setting up?

I thought the original gtr rims dont fit around the brembos and required the 17" bbs or am I mistaken?

oh okay but I just want to make a notable mention that it is A LOT different now. Before, I was struggling to make it move, now im struggling to make it not move.

Okay so today I changed all the drive line fluids and engine oil. Did the front diff, gear box, rear diff and transfer case (the one with atf fluid in it). So everything went well and took it for a drive and now the front torque gauge goes up no matter how much acceleration I do. Before I did the fluids, the gauge barely ever moved only on hard acceleration around corners but now it goes up, even though only slightly, when just lightly accelerating in a straight line. Even though, the car feels much nicer now and even feels a bit punchier on throttle. But Should I be worried about this?

Does anyone know how to set the gain? Also just another question. Does anyone know what actuator spring GTRs use? The evc needs to be set the right one and just wanted to clarify. Its on swing valve at the moment.

A 'major' service should include brake fluid, spark plugs, coolant, driveline fluids and filters(air, fuel, pollen etc.) But this varies from manufacturers so its up to you. Personally I would buy all that stuff because mechanics will charge up on all that stuff even though he will get it cheap. Cant help you out on a workshop cause im in Sydney. Hope this helps

Hey guys, jusy wondering if anyone could help me set up my boost controller So the car in question is a r32 gtr and I bought the car with this already installed and not quite sure if its even working correctly. So I looked up a manual online and I set it up as per the manual. I first set the boost limit at 113 kpa (in kpa is quite annoying) which is about 15 psi. Then I set up setting A at 50 kpa for a low boost setting of around 8 psi. Then set up B to 100 kpa of around 14 psi. So then I go to test the settings and this is where I think I havnt gotten it right. Setting A will easily go past 50 kpa. Ive seen it hit almost 80 on low gears. Setting B will even hit 118 kpa! Over my safe set limit. So if anyone could help me out any information would be appreciated Thank you

What are those numbers you wrote? Do those numbers indicate its a 93 model? Whats the 2371M-05U62 MT?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us Yeh just took a quick picture. Looks pretty stock. How can it run normally without the AFMs plugged in? How exactly do they run without them in?

Well the car drives normal with them unplugged but one of the first things I did was find the plugs and plugged them back in. Made no difference so im guessing they were unplugged because it wasnt necessary for the car to run. So im also guessing cleaning out the AFMs wont help? How does a stock GTR run without the AFMs not plugged in? Do they even run correctly without them? Is there anyway I can find out if its got a aftermarket ECU?

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone could shed some light on an idling problem im having. So the car in question is a 1994 R32 GTR V-SPEC II. From what I can see the car has a cat back HKS super dragger exhaust, APEXI pods, HKS EVC boost controller and turbo timer. When I got the car the AFMs were unplugged, an issue I would also would like to sort out (my guess is aftermarket ECU, but I was told it was stock when I bought it so I dont know). So the issue is, soon after purchasing the car I straight away noticed a issue with idle first starting out as what seems to be just a slight misfire on idle ( the revs dont actually drop, the car just shakes alot but is stable around just below 1k rpm). Now when the car is like this and I turn it off and soon after turn it back on it hunts at around 500-200 rpm or just straight stalls. It usually just stalls but if I can keep it running itll soon stablize back to 1k rpm but still has the slight misfiring feel. So I did some research and came to the conclusion that its most likely the AAC valve but I just want to confirm this before I start ripping things apart because it doesnt look like the easiest job.So any feed back would be greatly appreciated. Thank you