GTROID

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/

Ok thanks could that be likely to cause valve issues long term? Yeh cleaned all that out, will probably pull motor out, after talking to a few people it sounds like its at that age for a rebuild anyway, thanks all.

Had a boost leak and when trying to find that i had checked the turbo which had massive amount of shaft play, so it was replaced, running 14 psi and have not done head stud conversion. Motor has bout 150 on it. It has a bit of a smell but isn't a coolant smell i don't think? will check that, coolant is clean and oil is normal looking, no milkyness. No coolant loss, lots of oil in all the cooler piping etc which i expected to see. According to receipts in the glove box from previous owner 'Sensor drive gear in camshaft worn causing erratic timing control. Removed cam sensor, clean area where gear and spline connect. Under customer instruction fixed sensor drive to camshaft with devcon.' I don't fully understand as i havn't seen the setup for that but that seems dodgey as f... to me? Wouldn't you just replace the CAS?

Ok thanks for replys, appreciate it. Will check what you said rb but looks like all those numbers are fairly low to other results im seeing online.

No bubbles, sorry forgot to mention that i had checked that.

Few weeks after installing new turbo i had lots of white smoke when lifting off after heavy acceleration, had parked car up for a few weeks before looking at the problem, smoke was more evident this time around, really bad after a good hit on boost, when pulling up at home it was puffing smoke out exhaust on idle, so i've done a compression test. Did test cold as im not that keen on driving the car to warm it up, for wet test i added 3ml of oil. All with open throttle. cyl 1 cyl2 cyl3 cyl4 cyl5 cyl6 dry 136 dry 125 dry 125 dry 125 dry 130 dry 40 wet 144 wet 134 wet 137 wet 133 wet 143 wet 48 Does this indicate valve seal? Is there any further tests i should do? If it is the valve seal is it fine to fix the issue and refit the head or should i pull the motor out and have it inspected? Appreciate some feedback, thanks guys

Hi need drivers side window switch panel. This http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18204&cat=530&page=1 If you have for sale and can post please inbox me. Thanks

hey do you have drivers side plastic door insert where the window switches are? inbox if you have it thanks

Have you checked inside doors? if your window seals leak they could be wet inside.

Got 1 thanks.

Hi im chasing a HICAS locking bar for postage to 4680 in QLD thanks. Best to PM me here.

still looking

nothing?

HI need tommy kaira s2 front bar for r33 gtst. Prefer unpainted, black will do too. Can pickup from Brisbane before easter or will pay post. Leave offers thanks.

All good, found some options

sorted it out all good.

Hey i got a s2 r33 gtst, was orignally an auto that someone converted to manual with an rb20 box which has let go. I've got an rb25det box to go in, whats the story with tailshafts? will an r33 tailshaft bolt straight up to the auto diff and rb25 box? Or should i leave the rear half of the tailshaft in and get the yolk on the front half of the shaft changed to suit the box, will this fit? Not sure about length issues, and i already know the rb25 front half of tailshaft won't match up to the rear half thats in there. Reading alot of mixed information and would love some clarity please. Thanks!

I got the invision kit from repco.

you can get headlight restoration kits for like $30 that have all you need and also replaces the UV shield.

Yep that would explain the desire for a '6th'. ahh, google help us all

Nope, different cluster.. was told of the km's when i bought it, just not that it had been converted with an rb20 manual trans. Thanks for that

thanks mate, whats the gts25tm1 bit mean? AT:F4 would mean 4sp auto right? explains the rb20 5 speed :\

hey mate can you run this please, cheers mate. ECR33114114

all good, close please

ill grab the tailshaft mate