madmoomoo

hey folks, For sale: 3" turbo back exhaust. (I'm pretty sure from Performance Exhaust Ringwood). The guys at Chasers said I should be able to get about $600 for it, but I'm happy to say $490 ono to make it easy. A noticeable difference in power. As you can see it's turbo back, so no need to cut anything up - just bolt in on and away you go. You will however need to bring a station wagon or ute to transport this with, cos this sucker is long! Located in Melbourne (inner north west). pm or call 0403035007

Ok, so i went to check my coil packs and spark plugs today, and when pulling things apart, rather obvious, was the fact that the autosparky has cracked the metal frame that the coilpacks screw into (i'll attempt to add pic). And because i had given the top of the engine a light clean last weekend, degreaser and water had gotten in though the crack, and was pooled around the sparkplug in cylinder 3 (from the front). before going any further, i used paper towel to soak up any moisture i could get to so that it didn't just empty into the cylinder as i removed the sparkplug. Q: Will i have to try and get this fixed/replaced? or can i just go along, knowing that i can't get water in there? Next thing: The spark plugs i pulled out were all pretty much black, and the 3rd one was wet (which i knew was going to happen due to the events above). I noticed that most of the spark plugs weren't screwed in very hard at all, and were possibly loose. I'll pick up some new ones 2mo just to eliminate them as a prob. While i had things open, so i measured the resistance of the coilpacks. I hadn't done this before, but i think i did it right. resistance from the front cylinder to the back were as follows: 12.5 12.1 11.7 12.8 12.3 12.8 Does this look ok? So, what should i do next folks? i'm leaving the plugs out overnight just so things can dry up properly... any help would be greatly appreciated. ps. pic of the spark plugs is closest plug to front of car at right side of pic. rest in order...

ooh. been doing more searching. anyone got any comments? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...&hl=shudder i DID do a gentle wash on top of the engine i think last weekend. (by gentle i mean had oil there, so sprayed degreaser, then tissues to mop up, then tipped waterbottle over it..) and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...&hl=shudder the sparky said he tested fuel pump, coilpacks & regulator. but seeing that he possibly broke something in the first place... should i go and check any of these things?

ooh. been doing more searching. anyone got any comments? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...&hl=shudder i DID do a gentle wash on top of the engine i think last weekend. (by gentle i mean had oil there, so sprayed degreaser, then tissues to mop up, then tipped waterbottle over it..) and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...&hl=shudder the sparky said he tested fuel pump, coilpacks & regulator. but seeing that he possibly broke something in the first place... should i go and check any of these things?

Ok, this is strange... After last weekend (didn't drive anywhere on sun), come monday morning, i had remembered the sparky saying something about the diff between having the coolant temp sensor plugged in and not, so i popped the bonnet and unplugged it, turned the key, and voila! instant start with barely cranking a second time! no foot on the pedal and no multiple attempts. SO... i drove to work ok, went to park, did a U-turn quickly, and in the process (like has often randomly been happening lately), the thing stalls, but i was pretty much in place, BUT, the thing wouldn't start! tried 8 times to start the car, opened the bonnet and plugged sensor back in and it started! Anyway, long story short, i tried again yest, and same story, started fine, but then after filling up with petrol that night, wouldn't start until sensor plugged back in. ?? AND that's not the worst of it. Now, most of the tiem when i drive, when it starts to build boost, it shudders and feels like it's shakey and losing power, so needless to say as soon as i feel that i ease off the accelerator. it's not all the time, sometimes only at the start of the journey, sometimes only at the end. tonight after work was the whole way home. anybody have any ideas? is my ecu screwed or something? any help would be awesome, cos this is completely beyond my small brain...

Hi guys, I had a new batt put in, and the sparky had charged it when testing. The fuel filter i changed before taking back to him the second time, and according to him the fuel pump was building enough pressure. I don't know enough about the fuel system to be able to diagnose this, but the sparky seemed convinced the pump is fine. he also check spark plugs and coilpacks as well... i'll check the AAC valve today while i'm home. i don't really know about this, but i'll search how to do it. I'm thinking though, if it's a physical valve that controls the idle, if i'm starting the car with my foot flat on the accelerator, then wouldn't this valve be fully open anyway? (i don't even know what the AAC valve is, but i'll look it up right now). when it's cranking over, the power sounds fine, i can hear the thing turning over, but it sounds and feels like it's not getting enough fuel, then when it finally gets enough, it comes to life. very confusing, but geez it's annoying! my poor car used to start first time every time!

Hi skyliners! It would appear as though an autosparky has done something that has broken some unknown thing in my car. Can ANYONE help? Problems started when my alarm went nuts and used to engage and immobilise the car when i was driving (yeah, not very fun), so i went to the local autosparky, and he said that alarms can go a bit mental with age, so i said just rip it out and put a new one in. The car is a 93 r33gtst, and he put some standard alarm in, pretty basic, i didn't want anything complicated When i went to pick the car up, it didn't start properly, and he said it might be flooded and just to give it some gas while starting, which i did, and it started. Since that day, the car has never started successfully first time using just the key (and no accelerator pedal). My initial thought was that he'd not soldered something properly to the fuel pump or the alarm unit was faulty, so i took it back to him and asked him to check his work. The symptoms currently are: having to pump the accelerator to start. usually cranks over about 5 secs or so, sounding like it isn't getting enough fuel it takes 2-6 attempts to start (cold more so than hot, but even when recently stopped, takes more effort than it ever used to) after getting car back the second time, would sometimes idle at about 2k for the first trip of the day if i quickly do a u-turn, it'll often conk out, after revving, then taking foot off accelerator and also using powersteering... Aside from this, the car drives well. My battery was changed about 6 months ago, and was fully charged when tested and the alternator was rebuilt at the start of the year as well and is all good So, when he had it the second time, i asked him to check the fuel pump and do an overall looking into. This is what he did: fuel pump was ok... had enough pressure pressure regulator was ok coolant temp sensor was bung so he replaced he got afm rebuilt (at a cost of bloody $300 bucks or something, but he did this before i knew about it... grrr) all wiring he said was ok. he said that when left overnight, the fuel pressure dropped, and said that it should maintain the pressure when left overnight. This sounds about right to my novice ears, cos the car feels as though it's just not getting enough juice when it starts. To me it feels like a fuel thing, but could well be the ecu, or whatever it is that controls the idling when under load etc. I'm really not sure where to go with this. my knowledge is exhausted, but it's rather annoying that the car has always started first time everytime, and will now not ever start the first time. Has anyone got any suggestions for what it could be or what i could try? my searching on these forums has pretty much just pointed to either fuel pump or afm, both of which appear to be fine...

Hi Just thought I'd update... I ended up going to an autosparky and he agreed that it'd be the alarm, so it's now all pulled out and the madness has stopped! thanks for your replies = )

Hey lads and lassies. Just a quickie: I'm wanting to know ppl's opinions for what i should do. I think my alarm has gone insane, but i can't be totally sure that it's not a wiring related issue instead. Basically, the alarm (according to manual is a Brant Ultima series - either AA02E, AA04V10 or aa06V10) is doing some funny things. The first thing that i noticed is that of late, most of the time when i start the car, the black box starts making a clicking sound (sounds like a relay clicking), which will keep clicking continuously (about 5 times a sec?) for 5-40 seconds (yeah, doesn't sound great to start with). That's pretty weird, but a couple of times it's done something rather unsafe, which is when i'm driving, it will engage the alarm, cut my power and immobilise the engine! Yep, scared the pants off me the first time! I actually thought i had been driving whilst on the turbo timer the first time, but after it happened again twice, I realised it was the stupid alarm's fault! Aside from this, the external siren had stopped making noise numerous months ago as well, but i tended not to think much of it, as everything else was ok. Now, my question is this: Firstly, would anyone happen to know what might be causing this? My initial thought was the alarm has just gone bung, but then i thought maybe there's just some funny wiring issues that is triggering the alarm (but i don't know how it could trigger when the car is running though...). My thoughts for resolution are one of the following: Take car to auto-sparky to diagnose, then replace what's needed, or just go buy a new alarm, then get auto-sparky to rip out the old gear and hook the new one up, presuming that this is the cause. So do i go to auto-sparky first? Or get alarm and just replace it? (or option c, if anyone has any suggestions for something else I could check??). Oh yeah, '93 R33 gtst. all pretty stock... Any help or suggestions would be mightily appreciated.... i'd love to be able to drive around and not have to wonder if my alarm is about to make me into a specticle! cheers!

hey lads and lassies, Just a quick question: i have a relatively stock r33 ('93). I recently installed an intercooler and a bleed valve. I've got the boost set on about 10psi at the moment. What i've noticed though, is that when boost goes over about 7psi, i can hear an electonic beep, which appears to be coming from either under the bonnet or in the drivers footwell...? I've really got no idea what this would be, it's a single-pitched beep, which only continues with the boost above a certain level, then stops once i take my foot of the accelerator. I'm slightly concerned that this could be some component telling me it's not happy. Anybody know what i'm talking about? I'd really love some help on this one... thanks! (series 1 gtst, stock ecu, blitz pod, hks bov, and aside from that she's stock. stock fuel pump, but probably should be upgraded soon anyway).

So manwhore, you reckon it's the starter motor + not enough juice? I guess it could be a combination of things - because the night it happened, i was able to jump start the thing off my friends battery (MY03 wrx), but then, 24 hrs later, with 9V in my battery and jumped off portable charger & mum's battery, nothing at all? Because I bought a new batt, which was 75% full when I bought it, do you think it could drop to below 9V in 24 hours? The drive home was only about 7-8 mins. Although I guess it was only 75%, and the alternator IS supposed to charge the thing up... But if this battery is wired up AND my mum's car is cabled in, shouldn't that at least get the starter engine to do SOMETHING?? Do you guys know if it's a big job to get the alternator out? and where might service it (melb)? If anyone had some step by step instructions that'd be great. From my brief look, it pretty much just looks like remove a couple of hoses & unbolt the sucker. Although it looks pretty tight in there... Thanks for the help guys... really really appreciated!

Hi folks, I've been driving my extremely reliable '93 series I R33 for about 3.5 years now. Not a single problem the whole time. 2 nights ago, whilst driving around, the hicas light came on and I lost power-steering, so I pulled over and parked. The engine just stopped before I even turned the key. I had a friend jump start me, and I got down the road, (left the car idling whilst getting a couple of slices of pizza cos I was reaaaally hungry), and the thing was dead again when I got back about 90 secs later. So in Brunswick street I had my mate jump me again, this time we got about 500m, then the hicas light was going again at lower revs, then the engine just stopped mid-flight. (that was a bit scary) So, fortunately there was a servo open across the road. I took my batt across and the guy tested it, and yep, no charge at all. I bought a brand spanker, hooked it up and drove home. Next day, thought I'd start her up, put the multimeter across to see what the alternator was doing, but the thing didn't start! Tried to jump the car off portable jumper - no luck. Tried off my mum's car - no luck. All that happened was clicking! Something upfront was ticking when I tried to start, but nothing more. The starter didn't even crank over. So I took the (ever-so-handy) multimeter out and found the following: Batt- to Batt+ (whilst connected to car) = 3V Batt- to Batt+ (disconnected from car) = 9V Batt- to Batt+ (whilst +ve connected to car) = 9V Batt- to car chasse (whilst +ve connected to car) = 9V Batt+ to car chasse (whilst +ve connected to car) = small amount, can't quite remember, but <1V What the? Before I had my multimeter, I was thinking that either the battery was dead (it was over 3.5yrs old) or the alternator had karcked it. Does my testing indicate that there is a short somewhere? or is some electrical component (even alternator?) broken, and thus shorting? Basically, the night it happened, then the next evening when I tried again, the battery appeared dead. Couldn't put the windows up, interior light was dim, headlights almost non-existant. Needless to say, I've disconnected the battery altogether from the car while the poor thing is in the drive. can anyone PLEASE HELP? My automotive knowledge is pretty limited. can anybody give me some steps to try and troubleshoot/fix my problem? any help would be greatly appreciated...

yep. aside from those two bolts below the front of the rear seats, it's just clips. you have to pull straight up with a bit of force. I was a bit scared when i did mine. nothing brakes though. When you do the backrest though, I think there are hook thingies, and you have to slide the top of the seat up, then off.. can't quite remember. maybe there are bolts at the bottom then it slides up... ?? good luck with it.

Hey lads and lassies, Just a bit of a question about wiring. I've done some research on wiring setups for fog lights. This seems to be the standard setup in the following picture. It all makes sense to me, but I'm just wondering about the wiring with the switch on it - aren't you effectively short-circuting a 12V source to ground (via switch and relay)? I don't think there's a load across it, so wouldn't it be the same as putting a wire across +ve and -ve terminals of the battery? So, presuming that everything is ok, could I use the same wiring diagram to hook up a starter button for the car? (with the 12V coming from ACC and a momentary switch instead?). Hopefully someone out there can help me... cheers.

I second what was just said above (with the lovely pic). In my 33 I had a little lake collecting in the rear quarter panel. So it's worth having a reach to see if there's anything down there. good luck.

So do you guys reckon there's any way to get to the offending bearing with something like silicone spray with tube or bit of wire with grease?? I guess there may be no harm in leaving it, if it is in fact a bearing as you guys suggest. it's just annoying. If I were to try lubricating what I can get to, would there be any danger of missing and stuffing something up?? (obviously don't want to lubricate clutch plate face... but anything else?) (I wish i had the resources to pull the box out myself. One of these days I'd love to get the chance to) Thanks once again for all the great feedback. Hopefully I'll be able to get some sort of resolution. If not, at least hopefully I'll learn something about clutches. cheers.

If nothing is cracked or broken, is there a way to lubricate the suspect bits without pulling the gearbox or anything out? (I remember a little rubber boot near the clutch assembly. can I get to the right bits through that?) It seems this might be a semi-common thing?

anybody? I'm a bit stumped with this.... would REALLY like some help or ideas... ??

Yeah, the sound increases speed with revs. If it's the thrust bearing though, wouldn't the sound only be there once you started to press the pedal? I'm not really sure of the mechanics of it, but do you know if there's anything i can lubricate to get rid of the stupid noise?

Hey folks, I had my clutch replaced about a year ago (for an exedy HD one). Since then there has been a little bit of noise, but it's getting quite loud now and sounds rather ridiculous. I don't know much about clutches, but I really want to get rid of this embarassing noise. The chirping is there when my foot is not on the pedal, then when I step on the clutch slowly, the noise gets higher pitched then ceases when the pedal is about half way down. I've recorded this stupid noise from the drivers footwell. I basically had the engine running and was slowly pushing on the pedal then off again a few times. Can anyone diagnose my prob from the sounds? Then how do I fix this silly noise? thanks in advance. clutch_on.off.mp3

Hi folks, I am getting too much boost at the moment and obviously need to get it sorted out quickly. Here's the setup: R33 gtst, stock turbo/intercooler, jaycar electronic boost control, just changed some hoses to silicon because of split rubber hose. I have two boost settings - one about 7psi and the other at about 10. Firstly, I thought the High/low switch for the boost control had died cos the controller is saying that the boost is always on low (according to the hand controller), however, regardless of what setting it is on, if i leave my foot on the pedel, boost goes up over 12psi! I have tried to check the following: 1) boost solenoid (is clicking away when needed. I played with hand controller to test this) 2) looked for leaks/loose hoses. I can't find any leaks or loose hoses, but I am thinking this might be most likely prob. 3) dodgy soldering job on boost controller - I pulled box apart to check all the soldering, but I couldn't find any suspect bits. I'm a bit confused by this. At the moment I'm thinking maybe it's the boost controller that's crazy, but I can control the rate of the solenoid manually and it sounds fine, so it doesn't make sense to me. If anyone has any ideas at all, I'd love some help. I really don't know what to try next. Thanks.

ahh... I was wondering where it was meant to go... thanks for that!

it's ok. chris. I sorted it. lack of ground wire in coil wiring. all is good. I don't have to start getting the tram... thanks mate..

it's ok. I sorted it out myself. I grounded the wire cos i thought it would be stupid to have a black wire with a big metal thing on the end, and for it not supposed to be touching something metal. I didn't die and the car's not in flames, so all is good.