carl h

86.5mm pistons, no way thats a rb20, overbore like that would be in the waterjacket.

are you sure about that? everywhere ive read states that they are 1/8"bspt not npt.

the real problem lies within the flow of the injectors not the impedence, since rb25 squirters are 370cc's the pfc expects 370's, not the 270's as standard on a rb20. if you are planning to upgrade injectors (which on a rb20 should be done anyways) then it doesnt matter, but for those who arnt then its not such a hot idea. again it will run with the 270's but very poorly due to the pfc expecting larger injectors. since both the rb25 and rb20 use high imp injectors you may need to use a resistor pack depending on what injectors you end up using, ive got some denso 720's which are low imp so ive a resistor pack to suit.

not quite, looking for one that screws into the block like the stock idiot light adaptor does. im planning on adding an external oil cooler to my 20 and i dont want to have 2 sandwitch adaptors on the tree, seems like that would be asking for trouble.

suprisingly nengun didnt show them on the site anywhere, otherwise i would have ordered one with the gauges, go figure.

well ive got my hands on some defi gauges from nengun and one of them is an oil pressure gauge. now in the manual it says that i can get an adaptor so i can retain my stock oil pressure switch and also run the gauge but over here stateside bspt is rare as is, so im kinda up the creek without a paddle. anyone know where i can get a proper steel fitting so i can keep my idiot light and also use this gauge? thanks.

anyone?

might want to fit a crank collar so you dont eat the oil rotor in your new pump, that is if your crank needs it.

um they usualy sell for 180$ usd but i get a nice discount at my dealer (cost + 10%) so it was only 150 or so for me. but yeah it works, and since rb's didnt come stateside gotta get creative.

the ignitor modules are the same internaly, but the pinouts are diffrent between a rb20 and a rb25 ignitor. i run a z32/rb25det ignitor on my rb20 and all that i had to do is a little rewiring but it works a treat. basicly the inputs and outputs are swapped around on the ignitor, so you have to rewire the plugs, doesnt take much time and can be useful if you cant source out a rb20 one. heres a pic of mine: and a link of my writeup and theroy of why it works. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=116502

checked plugs lately or changed them out for fresh one? check gap, most ppl here run .8mm opposed to the 1.2 specified by nissan. else give the splitfires a go, worst case they are just bling.

i run bcpr7e's in my car and they are mint, havent had problems fouling or ignition break up. car WAS making 387 last dyno pull.....

water injection is mint! i ran it on my old 83 turbo saab and it allowed me to over boost from 9psi to 13psi (mech fuel injecton so i was limited) i usualy run straight water with only a bit of methanol to keep it from freezing but either way its great. the aquamist kits are a fine piece of kit however they cost quite a bit but believe me when i say this, the kit is bullett proof and feels and looks indestructable. if you tune to the water meth mix it need to be constant FOREVER (or till you retune) as stated before it will throw the afr's off a bit due to the methanol adding to the over all octane of the mix. best bet is to just run water to control detonation and add up to 50% meth when you are feeling a bit of overboost naughtlyness.

spot on, but if you have an efficient intercooler then the air exiting is usualy only a few degress warmer than when it entered the turbo, thermo dynamics ownz me!

hey all, need to know if the stock ecu controls the ac/overheat fan on the r33 or atleast has the ability to trigger it. with that being said if i were to run a power fc on it would i be able to change when the fan kicks on from the commander or thru the apexi software? trying to figure out the new cooling fan setup and this might be the ticket.

used for getting a smooth idle if the car has cams (mild or agressive), and so you can vent a bov to atmosphere without an uber rich mixture. i run a blowthru setup on my rb20 and it works a treat.

you can run a rb25pfc on a rb20 IF you swap injector triggers for clys 5 and 6 and run larger than stock (rb20 stock) injectors. tested it out on a buddies car and will prove difinitvely when i get my car back together.

you could always get a rb25pfc and swap the injector triggers for cyls 5 and 6, should be mint but you will need to upgrade injectors tho to suit. it works tried it on a buddies rb20/s14 wasnt too happy idling due to his car still running on stock injectors (270 rb20vs370 rb25), but it does work and all you would need to do is to take the values from a rb20pfc and cram them onto the 25.

bah, i'll stick to the 20. you're just mad that it will walk on you like its no ones buisness

block adaptors ownz j00. rb26 or a nicely modded rb20 but dont put a 25 in a gts-4.

i was revving to 8.5 on the old motor before she went. proly will take the rebuild to a max of 8.3, but this time round with uprated oilpump and valve springs to suit. gotta remember that rb20's are short oil drive motors so the posibility to destroy the oil pump is very good at high rpms/hp.

looks mint there mate, i envy your ss charge piping. why did you choose the 3071r? glad to see another rb20 owner using a 30r based turbo, you will like it alot.

for a good photo compareson take a look here: http://www.racebread.com/Documents/Good%20...k-gawdzilla.doc oh you will need word or some other office capable software to see it tho...... but its a direct compareson for those who are still puzzled

proengines on here makes a nice crank collar for the early rb motors at a very reasonable price, also wouldnt hurt to throw on a r33 n1 pump or an r33 pump.

im glad to hear the std rods are robust as i plan to use the std ones from my rb20 again with cp pistons but prepped as discussed with arp bolts. very encouraging to ppl looking for mild builds.