carl h

guy here stateside does a simmilar job cept for much less, good work and he fits arp bolts to the rods to suit. www.speedshopthagard.com

bb turbos tend to be a tight lot, even after 10kmi on my 30r its as tight as it was when i got it. might just need some lube or what not, if it makes horrible noises on start chances are they are bad.

hey there. i think i paid about 1.1k$ usd, it was quite dear but so far its potential has been well worth the exta bit of coin. i mean come on if i was making 387whp on 17psi on a low compression motor then its most certianly a testimate to how efficent that turbo really is, i simply cannot wait till i get the motor back together to see what she can really do. i got mine from www.cheapturbo.com, talk to ken as he knows quite a bit about turbos and what not.

yeah i must concur. i installed my own cams according to the jpnz manual (that i forked out 132$ usd for mind you) and following the proper removal and install instructions along with torque specs i havent had a problem yet.

haha, gotta make 260rwkw to be in this ilustrious club . 200rwkw from what ive read a hks gt2530 or a highflowed rb25 turbo should do the trick, consider upgrading the injectors and a good retune.

strange, i would never expect this to happen. perhaps the oil passageways in the head are a touch dirty, thus leading to poor oil flow, happened to a friend with a rb25det. glad i stepped it up to the procams....

hahaha, oh you know you want to join the darkside. also keep in mind my engine wasnt in good nic (140 psi HOT! across all cylinders) so on an engine with higher compression its very possible it will come on earlier and even harder than she did in mine. gt30r is very well suited to the rb20, almost as if it was designed for it......

roy are you sure thats right? iirc last time i dynoed it netted 387whp or 288rwkw. nice chart tho, will be good when updated to everyones current setup.

actualy sounds like the ignitior, they are known to crap out especialy if its dropping more than one cyl at a time. happend to a friend of mine, couldnt figure it out but ended up being the ignitior. both coils and ignitor are suspect, check both.

my rb20 was making 288rwkw's for a good bit there before it mysteriously melted a hole in the ringlands. <_< if anything rebuild it with some forgies and good management, old girl will hold the power properly tuned.

i think you are talking about blowthru maf right? if so yes you can do it and it will be fine, however you may find that you blow the top off of the maf due to pressure, nothing a bit of proper silicone cant fix. make sure you have a quality filter adaptor for the maf as a plastic one probably will not seal properly and leak.

are you using standard rods? you setup sounds simmilar to what ive got going right now.....results will be interesting.

compression is piss poor, spec is 175psi. there is alot of varience across the board there, engine might not be in good condition.

the cylinders may be leaking internaly as i just chased down this same problem on my beater s13. check the slave it may be leaking but not showing signs, pull back the rubber dust boot and see if there is fluid in there, was the case with mine and when i did that puddles of fluid came pouring out. same goes for the master, might be leaking internaly and not building proper pressure. perhaps the clutch dampener loop on the car is full of air?

um i sourced out a set of std bore cp pistons 20thou over size to clean the walls. nothing spectacular, same cr so we should have a good idea what the little rb20 can do when done right.

i would have to agree with you on the 2nd one. in that one pic it looks like there is a WHOLE rod bolt, so my guess is that something was not torqued down on that rod and when it loosened it ate the bearing and killed the rod. that sucks a large one there mate, i would consult the engine builder and raise hell as that (to me atleast) looks like some one didnt check the torque specs on the rod bolts. were those tomei rods?

1995 240sx(s14) with 1993 r32 rb20det swapped in pod filter buddy club spec 2 exhaust internally stock rb20 tomei cams (260/8.5) greddy gears (not degreed so set at 0) rc 550cc injectors z32 maf ecu retune to suit maf and injectors RIPS intake manifold hks cast iron exhaust manifold w/ std gate greddy e-01 boost controler garrett gt30r with .63/ar turbine housing 24"x6.5"x3.5" fmic core (spearco bar and plate) tomei r32 gtr fuel pump (cheap from a mates part out) run was done at 17psi, and we stopped due to the fact that it was too lean on the bottom end. eventualy corrected the lean spool but motor died from unknown reasons a few months later (suspect high egts)

tried looking into running an external oil drain at the back of the head, seems that rb's suffer from poor oil drainage and i believe it. when i looked at my rb20's head its amazing how any oil gets back into the sump as the oil return passages are blocked by the head studs.

grab a mate and an adjustable spanner and iirc a 19mm deep socket with a large breaker. you will need to wedge the adjustable spanner on the cam on the hexagonal bit near the nose of the cam and clamp it down, i use a short length of pipe to give more leverage to hold the cam. then with your mate and all, have him/her hold the cam inplace with the cheater bar while you crack the cam gear bolt off. if you have an impact wrench then its an easy job, but else you end up doing what i said.

the screen bit is the controler iirc....... have homeowners insurance? if so make them pay for it.

fwiw hks gt3037 = gt30r. i cant wait to get my engine back together, with proper compression (175psi vs 140psi) the turbo should come on harder and faster with better response. least i hope it does.

iirc the stock rb20 tb is 60mm, rob at rips in nz does a 5mm over tb for the rb20 but the manifold must be bored to suit.

while it would be a touch cluttersome why not have the std ecu control the neo-vvt and fuel and ignition tune with the link? shouldnt be that hard to hack in to the std harness.....

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...l_injector.html off of tomei's website, may help you some.

basic blue emange with the rudimentary harness. i sudgest getting the ignition and injector harness if you plan to do anything useful with it.