carl h

the answer i wanted to know!

awww come on i know some one on this foum has put arp bits in their bottom end....

hrmmm, you are right on a few fronts but i didnt say it was going to MAKE 500whp, i just wanted to beable to make one dyno pull and get a number like that...... the reason the piston went was due to a dodgy romtuned ecu, however decided that for high power needed to step it up so i invested in a pfc. i do believe its possible to make 450whp as it was making nearly 400whp (387 to be exact) untuned and at moderate boost (17psi) made peak power at about 6.5k rpm iirc. but back to the original question what arp bolts can i use on the bottom end?

hello lag.

yeah, block is going to be inspected and cleaned along with the crank and what not, going to have the crank's oil gallerys grubscrewed for proper cleaning...... as for revlimiter im proly going to keep it near the stock 7.8k rpm, perhaps raise it just to add a bit of head room but nothing more past 8.5 for sure. the head will be cleaned and checked as well as well as uprated valve springs to cope with sustained high rpm operation. what arp bolts can i use on the rods will z32 vg30 bolts work?

well since ive melted a hole in my rb20's no. 5 piston its obvious i need to rebuild it. ive got a nice set of cp pistons to rebuild the motor with but im wondering what else i should do to the bottom end while i have it apart. i plan on using arp head studs and an oringed block with stock hg to keep it from blowing out under high boost but what other things should i do while the engine is apart. i was gonna have the rods resized as well as shotpeened, but got to thinking do i need to change out the rod bolts and the main studs? the motor should be capable of nearly 500whp, and i want it to last a while so what are your guy's thoughts on making it do so. i was also gonna toss on an n1 oil pump to help the oiling system as well as a proper oil cooler. ideas?

perhaps this is a case where a blowthru setup could solve some problems? where is the maf positioned as ive found that if any air can be blown on or near the maf then it will surge and do all sorts of odd things. running blowthru on my car has been sweet so far, might be worth a go.....

but not a rb20 or a rb20 derived engine so boooo.

yes it can be done, tomei supplies pistons to suit a 2.2l rb20 that is achieved by boring the motor to 82mm. rb26 bits DO fit but the block has to be clearanced for it to fit. using rb26 bits (crank, rods, bearings) and special pistons (tomei in this case) gives you a 2.4l rb20 with a capable 9k redline due to the rb26's better crank and rods........... but like i said above tomei does sell 82mm pistons to bring it out to a 2.2 using stock rods.

not shabby at all...... im looking to crack 300rwkw's on a rb20 when i get mine backtogether.

check out the aquamist systems, while pricy the quality is mint! www.aquamist.co.uk

holy fiznuck! whats the ar on that turbo? from the pic the housing looks absolutely ginormous! just curious but how do you know its a rb24? also is that the gtr intake manifold mated to the rb20?

last time i checked the only boat of the skyline series was the r33..... neways, looks like shotpeening the rods is the way to go on a moderate to high power rb20. we will see, just ordered up a set of proper cp pistons for the old girl .

pic as afformentoned.

while revs are something the rb20 is capable of it does increace engine wear and the potential for something down there to let go..... ive included a pic of the rb20's stock rods from when i tore down the engine and they felt and looked very beefy to me. i guess the key to the rods holding power is a proper tune and making sure the engine doesnt detonate at all, which is what seems to cause failure.

520rwhp is an awful lot especialy when turning 8.5k redline. i would really like to see a dyno sheet of that pull.

yah, i was also toying with that idea of raising static compression .5 point to 9:1, would provide nice off boost drivability and loads more power on boost. as far as the revving deal, yes i know its bad for the motor, but this new motor most likely wont be going that high but will have the saftey functions to do so (uprated oil pump, stiffer valve springs,ballanced rotating assembly, ect...).

stockers are already shotpeened,or am i wrong?

please do explain.....

roy, i myself used to work at a dealer so i can get nismo springs for the vg30 at nearly cost, but tomei springs work out to be a hair cheaper even from nengun.

ok so what should be done to prevent pooling in the rb20's head then? you say fitting an external drain should help but where abouts should it be placed, ive no qualms about modding the head while its out of the car. also i seem to remember a thread on this forum stating that the internals and over all design of the n1 pump were diffrent from that of a normal rb26 pump.......

z32 aka fairlady 300zx or 300zx, i think they have a vg30de?

agreed, it seems that the rb20 has a poor oil return system as i noticed oil leaking out of the back of my cam covers after a few hard pulls. perhaps tapping out the head near the back like some rb26's are done for oil return could help this problem, i dont like the idea of oil pools in my head because that means less in the sump . right now the piston choice if i dont go with a rb24 setup is a set of cp pistons or some arias pistons, from what ive heard cp's quality is almost if not that of arias.... what kind of mods did you do for the 9l sump is that a custom deal? as far as rods go, i'll proly stick with stockers seems if you avoid detonation they will hold power just fine.

stiffer springs are just a good upgrade over old springs anyday. im looking at a set of tomei springs even tho i have fairly mild cams (260/8.9) just as a precautionary measure. any uprated z32 valve spring will work in the rb20 head, same goes for ca springs.......

140 is bad when you add some oil and it shoots up to 160psi........ i had thought of the rb25 crank tho, seems like a nice alternative to the rb24 bit but if i can source a rb26 crank and rods easier than the rb25 then its almost pointless to go with the rb25..... a local (local to you guys) shop in au (proengines i believe) is making crank collars at a very nice price, i believe for me its a hair over 110$ usd, much nicer compared to the jun bit. as for the piston melting, still a mystery, afr's were a nice 11.5-12:1 when it blew so not sure exactly why, suspect some damage done to the piston in past which inturn formed a nice 'hot spot' on the piston and was only a matter of time.