carl h

compared to the r32 rb20det the ceffie rb20det DID have longer duration cams on the intake side but the exhaust was the same iirc..... http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

agreed. i plan on wiring up these external coils and seeing how she goes, but i do agree that trying to power up dying coils is a bit stupid. if all goes well these external coils should help a bit and if not its not too much lost (1$ for 3 NIB coils off ebay) and i can always go with the proven splitfires......

ive got the RIPS manifold on my rb20 in a s14, fantastic piece of kit as it is well made and fits well.

yah, from what ive been told they arnt much better power wise than stockers....... as for the twin power, im kinda hesitant on it, some say it works others say stay away, so im not sure what to do about that. i did however get some NIB GM DIS coils of ebay for a dollar, and for me to sort leads would be about 40$, so doing an external coilsetup wouldnt be too terribly hard........and if i did that i could go ahead and grab a msd dis-4 box and call it a day and still have some money left over vs buying a twinpower or splitfires. this info in this thread is excelent, even just for the spark plug numbers, its much appreciated!

you timing could possibly too retarded if its getting that hot. on all my turbo cars ive owned ive never had the turbine housing red hot even after a right nasty thrashing. check timing might be retarded and reset if need be.

the de cams are less agressive interms of duration, so you would be stepping backwards in performance.

i made my own resistor pack off of good resistors off ebay. just source out some 10ohm 10w resistors and go from there, not too terribly hard.

car makes about 288rwkw's on a dyno dynamics dyno. as far as the coils being bad im sure thats the cause, but as far as a ignition system upgrade what do you guys sudgest? supra guys here stateside swear by the hks twinpower, while ive heard that it does nothing, any good reccomendations on cdi systems?

hks cams across their entire range have bad idle characteristics, however tomei cams idle like stock and make powah.....

currently running std ignition system, but looking into upgrading it. i suspect a faulty coil but since im running higher than stock boost (17psi on high boost) i thought it would be wise to step up to a cooler plug. i usualy run .8mm gap but gapped the plugs down to .6mm to see if that would help with the car any, but it hasnt. this is also a street car that sees 400whp on the weekends but is on low boost (14) for the rest of the week.

indeed. a real gt30r has a 4" inlet with the 'fluted' compressor housing, if it doesnt have that then its not a real gt30r.

orly? hrmmm i am getting a bit of a miss fire at idle and at high rpms (7.8k or so)......but ive been running the bcpr7es's for 4 months now and its been mint. ngk doesnt seem to make a 8 in the bcprXes range, which is why im asking if anyone has some part numbers handy........ as for the iridiums im here in the USA, shipping wouldnt be worth it, thx for the offer tho.

hey all, rb20det is the engine. currently running bcpr7es plugs in my car at 400whp, however im looking for something colder, round the 8 range....... anyone know of a ngk plug that will suit the engine and will work?

i run blowthru maf on my car as ive got limited space for maf mounting near the turbo inlet (turbo inlet is 4"). so far its been good to me, but as stated before it can require retuning as mine required me to fiddle with the ecu's k consant to get it to run right (rechipped ecu). as far as pipe work ive got 2.5" charge piping and use adaptors from 2.5 --> 3 to go to and from the maf and havent had any problems thus far. however i have blown the little plastic square cover off of the maf which then in turn caused a massive boost leak, but after a thourough cleaning and a stern resilliconing it hasnt leaked again and actualy spools faster . this is actualy on a rb20det swapped into a s14 chassis currently making 288rwkw's before tuning......

hehe, well i was hoping that it would atleast aleviate some problems...... so far in an effort to fix the problem ive removed the maf and given it a good cleaning with contact cleaner (i run blowthru), pulled the plugs out only to find that they are still clean and plenty of life left (gapped down from .8mm to .6mm) and i havent cleaned the injectors as of late........ the aac valve i swapped out a few months ago because i thought the one on my car was faulty, turned out to be an improperly set tps....... i did clean and lubercate the aac while it was out of the car and it does work fine, idles up when its supposed to. im gonna guess that i should run some injector cleaner thru my car and see if that helps? its wholey possible ive gotten some fouled gas as gas shortages (read: gouging) may have caused some stations to put in some dodgy gas in place of premium........

ive got the 2a0 in my car right now rigged up thru the greddy e-01's analog input. so far works a treat and i can use it to limit boost (well boost other than gate) via the e-01's on board limiters. its a very nice unit indeed but it does take some time to put together and debug properly, but once all is said and done its mint. as for the o2 sensor i got mine from the local vw DEALER for 65$USD, pretty forking cheap for a wideband.

yah i figured its proly a coil going bad but if thats the case then im just gonna convert to wasted spark. new coils off ebizzle for 1$usd and some sparkplug leads and some creative wring and all coil woes will be relived forever.

using the old school hks cast manifold with external gate.

hey all, engine of scrutiny is a rb20det swapped into a s14 chassis. as of late its developed a slight miss at idle and under full boost round 7.6krpm it will cut out for a second and then contiune on. revlimiter is set at 8.5, but when it hits at 7.6 its pretty rough and doesnt like it much at all......however fuel is not a problem as its about 11.8:1 round there. ive gapped the plugs down to .6mm now and still no change, perhaps the coils have finaly gone south? carl

last time i dynoed my car it put down 288rwkw at 17psi but due to a massive air leak i was getting full boost at nearly 6k. the car is a s14 with a rb20det swapped in with cams and injectors with a gt30r with a .63 ar turbine housing. since ive fixed the air leak full boost now comes on round 4.5k instead of 5.5k, but i think my cams are a hair off so im gonna degree them to tomei's spec and see how it feels. all i can say is 17psi on a 30r is forking rediculous.

and of course as usual sydney kid is on point with the info....... cheers gary! at this point ive realized that even tho the rb24 would be loads of fun for bragging rights, it really isnt practical anymore......... while rb25's are the better alternative they arnt as reddily available over here as they are round you guys. not to mention we have to pay super inflated prices for stuff, thats the way of capitalism i suppose. what i think ive decided to do is tear downt he old girl and rebuild it with slight over bore pistons to clean up the walls and get a hair more displacement (rb20.5 comes to mind ) and get the rods cleaned up and new bearings and gaskets with gtr pumps. new hydro lifters and some decent springs and i should be good for a while. besides being a student and trying to build a fast car isnt too practical atm. thx for the info.......

main reason im looking into it is because i want reliabilty as well as having good lowdown response. not to mention my rb20 has seen much better days and with the 2.4 it should spool a large turbo fairly quick like. from what i gather you should use a r33 crank because of the oil drive fix, as for intake manifold ive got a custom RIPS one so im good on that front . since i was planning on building the engine to be 9k capable i was gonna run some kind of 260/270 combo or 270's. ive already got 260 tomei procams in the car now......

hey all. contemplating rebuilding the old rb20 into a rb24 as the engine has terrible compression (140psi across back in jun; still pulled 288rwkw's tho ) and if so to go in with nice forged bits for longevity. everyone knows to make a rb24 you use a rb26 crank with rb26 rods and tomei/custom/4agze pistons but it seems that everyone always forgets about the head. the rb20's head isnt exactly a fluid dynamics wonder, so what can be done to improve the head flow? also since we would be boring the snot out of the rb20 block to fit the new pistons whats to be done with head as the CC would need to be worked to suit the over bore right? im not really familiar with this kind of stuff so i would like to learn as much as i can. thx. carl

cams will help alot with the powerband the rb20 has with stock cams but unless you get a retune and raise the limiter for revs, then its not worth it.

hehehe, 520rwhp out of an rb20 has to sound insane on the dyno as well as on the street. i know that in my car with the open gate when boosting 17psi the car sounds like a serverly pissed off supra..........