carl h

any turbo nissan motor will benifit from a tune even if it just has intake and exhaust...they run so damn rich from factory. we tuned my friends car for 550cc injectors and 14psi on the stock turbo, goes like hell compared to a std 20 at 14...in the end removed a ton of fuel.

um, shouldnt body damage be assesed first?

injector driver swapping was easy as, just remove the pins from the ecu connector and swap... gonna test for spark today and if i have spark then fingers start to point at the fuel system. as far as the pfc being damage, i dont believe that is the problem...i opened up the pfc and inspected it and there were no signs of burnt traces or the scent of a toasty ecu.

compression was checked not too long ago, motor was rebuilt approx 6 months ago... starting to lean twards stuck injector.

heres the situation... rb20 using a 25 pfc, drove the car up to school and it was flawless parked it over night went to go to the store and found cylinder 4 had mysteriously stopped firing. plug was drenched in fuel and pulling the injector clip while it was running made no change in engine speed/sound. swapped ignitor out with 2x spares as well as my known good stock coils, still nothing. continuity tested the coil harness and it appears to be fine as well. HELP!

ah, didnt think to check there... cheers then!

anyone have a manual for the boost kit installation, like what goes where and what wires are to be spliced into? looking on an alternate route to use the boost control feature without having to fork out money for the apexi bit. thanks in advance.

well ive already got the gt3076r mounted onto a hks cast manifold with an external gate...so that really isnt a problem. im currently running the .63 ar 't' 2.5" outlet and it comes on full song round 4.1k give or take. would the divided entry help in spool time some, i dont want to plunk down the coin only to have a slower spooling turbo.

go to the dealer and order a gt-r pump, same thing... the 040 will fit in tank, just will take some persuasion to make fit.

i too would be keen to know what kind of gains can be had converting to the twin entry turbine housing. after all a gt30r on a rb20 isnt exactly the fastest spooling thing in the world and the hks cast manifold is already setup for twin entry...

ive found that since i've redone my cooling system in my s14 (modded 20) and refitted the cooling fan that my coolant temps are a stable 82*c while cruising at gets as high as 84* when in traffic. according to the power fc knock rarely goes above 15 on 14psi and scrapes 20 at 18psi. it seems to me that the cooler the engine runs (compared to the 85-95 it used to with my efan setup) that it generaly feels better overall, im quite happy with my current setup as it has proven to work well for me. next mod tho is to add an oil cooler because after i do a few good hard pulls i can see on the pressure gauge that it has dropped a few psi indicating to me that the oil is starting to thin out...will be fitting a setrab unit to the car and using a mocal plate to keep it some what regulated.

i would fit an oil cooler anyways since the std rb20 doesnt have one unlike the 25 and 26... besides coolers are cheap, source a volvo 760 turbo in the yard and grab the cooler from it they are setrab units and are farking huge! the cooler i have is from an 89ish turbo and measures 100mm tall x 285mm long x 50mm thick, rather beastly indeed. pick up a mocal adaptor plate and some hose and you will be mint.

ive just 'shaved' a set of known ka24de 270cc injectors, will rig up a test bench for these and pulse them to grab a pic of atomization. then will be sent out to deatchworks to be cleaned and actual cc/min measured.

poke around some of the us 240sx sites as proper manifolds are hard to source here stateside and quite a few ppl have fitted external gates to the std manifold.

ok heres the scenario but first off let me say that i have brand new splitfire coils as well as a brand new nissan ignitior for said coils. while driving the car yesterday i noticed that the car hesitated a second while cruising but only for a second then went away, however it did it again except a bit more violently later on in the day again while crusing. pulling into my neighborhood under decel the car stalled out and i was unable to restart the car at all unless i let it sit for a little bit. i thought the cas might be suspect so i replaced that but the problem still persists... anyone have any ideas?

you could always cough up the money for a RIPS plenum...but the greddy one does fit, you'll have to use the r33 iac and fuel rails iirc.

i tapped my intake manifold right off the head near the coolant outlet, so its the most accurate reading i can get. alternatively you could weld a bung into the motor outlet/rad inlet for the sensor and that would also provide an accurate reading. putting the sensor in the hose will make your readings about 4* off of actual...well so ive found on various cars ive fitted them to.

use rod bolts to suit a vg30de, i have as set new in package that were to be used on my rb20 till i found out that the rb20 uses the rod bolts from a late model l28... 50$ usd for them + shipping, pm if you want me to work up a shipping figure.

with the emulator i havent been able to get it to properly connect with liveedit but using a software that updates the emulator on the fly it seems to work well with romedit. the unit does support maptrace but ive yet to find software that will allow me to do it that doesnt cost an arm and a leg.

interesting to see that you guys are getting decent results with these highflow turbos. as far as the rom editing is concerned ive tuned a few rb20's via flash chips and they work well...for real time tuning i have a motes ostrich emulator which is a steal at 175$usd for a good robust emulator that is usb driven not the old serial. coupled with a software that monitors changes to a file and uploads them to the romulator on the fly, using romedit and having a wideband at hand we pulled substantial fuel out of my friends bpu'ed rb20 and it was a night and day diffrence. on a stock rb20 fuel map the afr's would dive into the 10's, it was amazing the car ignited the mix as my personal car has problems when afrs get that low (but then again i run a MUCH larger turbo and lots more boost).

on a rb powered car... no less than a proper oil pressure gauge, wideband (not one of thoes effin christmastrees), coolant temp, and egt.

lol, looks like when i decide to ditch my pfc (whenever that time comes) i'll be able to pull some coin for it. kinda sucks tho as the pfc is possibly the best drop in replacement for our motors, aem is fickle and works half the time and the others are just horribly expensive or dont support maf.

goes to the air lines that come off of the jpipe, should be apparent where it goes as it should run into a metal 'tee' fitting.

wouldnt a gtr exhaust bolt up?

bah to electic fans, us s chassis swap guys have to use them and i hate them. ive actualy relocated my radiator under my core support just so i could fit the std clutch fan again, i cant wait. with e fans my coolant temps would never stabilize and tended to get hot in traffic, imho not worth it.