carl h

venom injectors are known to be trash here stateside... deatchworks injectors work well, havent heard any problems from ppl using those.

bah just you wait, JUST YOU WAIT!!!!! muhahah!

nothing wrong with the ebay intercoolers (well the xs power ones...) ive a few friends running them on moderately high power cars (400-500whp) and they work well. pretty hard to eff up a intercooler imho.

or run your r33 off of a rb20det ecu with a window switch to control the vtc...

i dunno where you are looking man but the emulator that works with live edit is 179usd/230ish aud... http://xtronics.com/memory/pktROM.htm its much more affordable than you think.

check out liveedit, combined with a romulator you an mod and edit the maps for your stock ecu on the fly. for people tuning with a eprom burner i sudgest some amtel 29c256 chips which are flash chips and are electronicly eraseable and drop in for the std 27c256 chips that are found in the stock ecu. number of ways to do this but whatever you choose the outcome is up to how well its tuned. the stock ecu is VERY capable and can do some impressive things, tune it right and it will treat you well every time.

'pure' gt30r (3076/3037s equivalent) ftw! the 3071 wont be near as good on the 3l...

las i checked they had one of these already, and it was called an eaton.

lawlz, im still tuning my car right now but so far its looking like she will be pretty mean on higher boost (ie: more than 14psi).

no even tho im running the base maps for the rb20 it still is a rb25 power fc and there for expects 370cc injectors as stock... and as far as base maps are concerned, yes they are basemaps but they are also VERY good starting points no one said they would be perfect.

with swapping 2 wires round and clipping one it plugs right in and runs fine, will even run on the rb25 base maps but runs poorly due to the lack of ignition in the map. ive realized that the compensation bit isnt as apex described and gonna go back to what i was doing before with changing correction till i get the afr at idle thats ideal (14.5) and going from there...seems to work better that way.

paul - resistor pack is on there from when i was running the std rb20 ecu, as it used for running low impedence injectors on a high impedence system... greddy injectors are 3ohms give or take, so that would neccsistate running the resistor pack to keep the car (ecu) from farking its self up no?

ok heres the problem, rb25pfc on a rb20 using rb20 base maps... greddy/denso 720cc injectors with dropping resistors to suit. doing the injector correction math for the power fc 370 / 720 = .515 or so so 51.5% correction on the power fc. inputting the said 51% change into the power fc causes the car to run EXTREMELY lean and can only be compensated at that setting by changing the lagtimes for the injectors to +70 or so. not sure what the deal is here or why its running so lean, anyone have any ideas?

ok, after looking at some crude wiring diagrams in my engine manual i need the fuse size for the eccs/ecu and the one for the ignition...

well trying to get my pfc to work correctly in my s14, but due to wiring issues its staying on with the key out...so its not saving properly. need to know what fuse size the white/black wire and white/purple wire that runs into the fusebox is so i can set something simmilar up in my s14 to completely emulate the r32's stock wiring. iirc the plug with these wires is near the maf and then connects to a body harness which then should run to the fuse box, wires are for ecu power and the coils so there _should_ be a fuse for each in the fuse box...

old post that i put up on the us forums a while back, should have thought to post it here... well since i had crap luck finding a proper part number for arp bits i had to go out and do some research on my own. heres what ive found and is aplicable to the rb20/25/26 unless noted. head studs: rb20/25 202-4301 rb26 202-4207 rod bolts: z32 dohc vg30 bolts were reported to work on the rb25/26 but will not work on the rb20 (rod bolts are too long for rod, verify length of rb25/26 botls) pn for z32 rod bolts 202-6004 use sr20 bolts, may need slight trimming 202-6005 x2 (2 sets req'd if using kit) or alternatively order (rod bolts and nuts respectively) 12x ar3.67-1 12x n502 rb20 rod bolts ONLY : 202-6003 (l24 late,l26,l28 rod bolts) main studs: this is from my measurements of my stock bolts and my block rb20/25/26 except rb30, again verify lengths and sizes. 3x am4.600-1lb 11x am4.125-1lb 14x 200-8519 14x 300-8344 any arp distributor can order these part numbers, so you shouldnt have a problem... carl

thanks much!

might be me but when i dload that file it ends up being corrupted...

well since im going to be fitting a rb25 pfc to my rb20 i need to find the basemaps to suit a rb20 so i can (ugh manualy) enter them into the power fc... anyone have the timing and injecton map handy in excel format? ive got the old datalogit stuff but i cant figure out how to get the software to switch between maps and the garbled japanese doesnt help much. any help is appreciated. cheers!

the kit should come with filters and adaptors to fit the filters to the maf, usualy you can remove the adaptor and bolt the filter right onto the maf...least on the ones ive seen.

gt30r is a much better turbo on the rb20...

thanks for the kind words...going to school and trying to rebuild a car is hard, so its taken a while to work and save money to fix the old girl. im actualy in the USA, so i got the turbo here no problem, www.phoenixturbo.com was the place where i got mine and they were great to deal with... i look so much fatter than i am, damn baggy shirt... chromemoly flywheel, guy i got it from put it on drove 5 ft and took it off... infamous xtd clutch, better not let me down as my last one was amazing. oil line clearance clearance of fittings and said lines in the head with motor in the car... turbo clearance against r32 xmember, mount kits proly would not work...

final assembly done...motor is due to go into car tommorow with any luck it will be done. brand new nismo motor mount modded to clear compressor inlet, its a tight fit inside the car. proly gonna have to replace these lines, supply water to and from the turbo, but shifted and took some heat from the turbo manifold.

few new pics for you guys...

thanks for the kind replys guys, its taken me a while to collect all the misc bits i needed to rebuilt the motor. cubes: motor failed (which i speculate) was due to the previous owner in japan not knowing how to tune a car took the std ecu, chipped it and slapped 30* advance all over the timing map. accelerated ring wear and caused ring land eroding detonation...then you have me doubling the stock power out put and well, old girl wasnt too happy. gtr1993: word. i'll change them out for steel bits anyways, last thing i want to do is remove a broken fitting from the head with the motor in the car. BHDave: the ignitior is actualy part of a new nissan z32 retrofit kit, my ignitior had taken a shit and since rb20 parts dont grow on trees here had to get creative, some repinning and the z32 one works a treat; plus it looks loads better than the std piece . fr0st: didnt go rb24 for a number of reasons formost being cost for the rewards, i couldnt justify the money spent on the power the motor would make. motor was making 288rwkw sooo with a fresh bottom end it can do more for sure. would have loved to do a rb24 but when you factor in parts cost and the machine work to mod the head and what not, simply not worth it as SK said long ago. r31 power: brass fittings are for the external oil drain for the head, trying to keep oil pooling to a minimum with the use of restrictors and the external drains. i'll have more pics soon enough, any luck i'll be able to mount the oil pan and then the exhaust mani and turbo...then its just a matter of getting the motor back into the car and breaking it in.