carl h

ok first of all a BIG thanks goes out to greg at proengines and the rest of the guys there, greg was kind enough (and willing!) to help me source out parts for my rebuild since bits like bearings and timing cogs arent available here stateside, so again a GIGANITIC hooray for greg! internal mods: full arp bottom end (rods, mains, and head studs) proengines crank collar new nissan n1 oil pump cp pistons (20thou over, .5mm iirc) prepped stock rods nsk bearings (mains and rods) dual tomei oil restrictors (sorry SK, i'd rather err on the side of saftey when it comes to hydrolifters) top end: tomei cams new nissan oem lifters (i cried when i paid for these) tomei valve springs external drains fitted to head still putting the motor together but its finaly comming together. only thing im not sure bout right now is the fittings in the head for the oil drain, not sure if the brass bits are up to the job or if i need something else. thoughts on said fittings are welcome, oil pan isnt sealed right now so i can figure out where to place the return lines...

emanage is teh boo. still a piggyback and maf manipulator...i had one and didnt care for it.

grab an eprom emulator and liveedit and tune the stock ecu, cheap and works EXTREMELY well.

heres my setup:

though so, cheers!

yah, ran them on std head and springs, altho for the rebuild i got some tomei springs just incase the stockers were giving way. they do come awfuly close to the head but they still clear...

degree them. loads of sites online with info on how to do it, most often they will make the most power when degree'ed to spec. but what do i know .

well finaly got the bottom end back from the machine shop and its time to prime the n1 pump and mount it to the motor. i had planned on pulling the backing plate off of the pump and filling it with some good quality assembly lube but i cant for the life of me figure out how to get the philips bolts out without fear of stripping them. any ideas? also will std red locktite be sufficient for the backing plate bolts?

i was looking into the idea of the swinging pickup but that idea was shot to complete hell but i would like to know more about your setup and how long/how well it has worked out for you. i run a rb20det rwd so the rear end will step out before i pull some obcene g's in the car, well least my car.

check out the little chart at the very bottom, they offer it in a 8.8mm lift, sorry memory was a touch rusty.

why not go with tomei cams, they offer 260/8.9mm intake and exhaust cams which i run with no problem in my rb20. beides hks cams lope like crazy and tomei cams idle with nearly stock exh note.

agreed...the head and block have to be absolutely perfect for it to seal right with a cometic if it isnt then it wont seal worth a damn, mainly because since its mls composition it doesnt have the ability to fill small imperfections in the head and the block like the stocker. i have heard of people spraying the cometic gasket, head, and block with copper spray a gasket to aid in sealing for those people who's head and block arnt quite up to snuff... glad to hear your engine builder knows what to do, some do some dont.

from reading and experience you will never have a problem with a japanese head gasket sealing properly, they were designed right from the get go.

fwiw a cometic gasket will not seal properly unless the and block are finished to a near mirror shine and even then it may not seal properly, got a few ppl here stateside who have tried to run them and have problems with them. std gasket FTW in my book, put some arp studs to hold the head down and i highly doubt it will blow out.

indeed, apexi seems to have adopted it for their gauges. this power meter that ive got runs up to bout 450ps, but looks like the needle can go further

any blowby issues? what bout turbo being overoiled, i found on my 30r on my rb20 running a -4 feed line i had to run another restrictior due to over oiling. it is possible some oil is getting into the intake charge and causing a miss...

might be rings wearing due to over advanced ignition timing, happened on my rb20. compression on the old girl started going to hell and exponentialy got worse, upon teardown bearings were fine rings however were not and the pistons showed signs of heavy blow by.

well as the title states ive finaly gotten all the bits together to haul my poor motor off to the machine shop, but while i was off on vacation i got a call from the shop telling me that the exhaust valve guides were out of spec, and they were pretty much dead...not good. sooo heres the dilemma, im here in the USA where rb parts arnt exactly rampant, i have dealer connections to nissan so getting oem parts is not a problem but what motor can i try to get valve guides for. my guess would be the ca18de as its valves are a drop in oversize for the rb20 so one should think the guides would be the same no? i need p/n's for these parts and reccomendations on what to do, just this little snag keeping me from getting the old girl back together and running. cheers! carl

im afraid you are mistaken here, every silvia front clip ive seen has a ps switch on it and my personal usdm s14 car has a ps idle up switch, so it was just a matter of wiring it into the loom. as far as pyrometer wtf are you talking about NO nissan ecu used an egt sensor for any reason, the r32 rb20 has an exh warning light but it is not needed for ecu operation. trust me here ive done enough rb swaps into s chassis cars to know what they have and what they dont have...

when dropping a rb motor into a s chassis you can use a pfc with no problems what so ever, the only trick to it is emulating the wiring as it would be in the skyline meaning that the constant power to coil and eccs relay is connected and the ign bits are as well. on my car ive got all the ancilerary sensors (ac,ps,whatever) wired up to the rb and ive never had a problem with it. when i get the motor back into the car i plan to run it off of a rb25 pfc...

rb20's clean up once the stock manifold is removed... what manifold is that anyways, i run a RIPS manifold on my 20.

seeing as they use the same identical system there is no reason it cant be done.

ive found that a std rb20 with mild mods (intake, exhaust, intercooler) will suck gas like no other, mainly due to the fact that the turbo comes on boost by looking at the gas pedal. i get bout 30mpg highway and 25 intown with my rb20 but then again ive fitted a large turbo and im not always on boost. ppl say its laggy and a dog to drive but honestly its not bad, old girl had enough torque to keep off boost and was fine.

im chasing the same problem on a buddies car where we were trying to take pictuarz to prove the rb25 pfc works on a rb20, it works but we are experienceing simmilar symptoms such as the read only bit. it all comes down to the wiring, since you have a rb25 in a r32 it had to be rewired, but it is wired in a way that it isnt exactly as nissan had designed it; it works but the pfc shits a brick when it tries to figure out whats going on... paul, looks like that wiring diagram you have it spot on, gonna have to give it a go when i hack my loom apart to rewire it.

is that an osgiken 3l kit i spy?