carl h

those injectors have proven themselves to be very good recon'ed injectors. lots of sr and ka and a few rb guys here stateside using them on high power motors...

shit injectors, they leak and dont seal worth a damn. not to mention tehy arnt ballanced so one will flow more than the others and vice vera.

you'll be fine i ran the tomei procams 260/8.9 cams on my rb20 with a gt30r and it was insane to drive...

im not sure the green wire is for the map sensor, it looks like the unit has an onboard pressure sensor which you have to run a vac line into the cabin to connect to the unit. the 2 wire plug is proly for the solenoid where as the 3 wire is for power i described above. *edit* the green wire might be for rpm, best bet is to email apexi usa and ask them, they are very helpful and will help you even with their legacy products.

orly... looks awesome. cant wait till he gets the r33 version working.

black is most likely ground. red is proly constant power. green is proly ignition power.

imho a 5 heat range is a bit toasty for a turbo engine, and with a modded motor its good to step it up to 6's, which are quite sufficent for a while before you start making serious power. after that its advised to step to 7's but for a lightly modded motor 6's seem to do the trick. my .02c...

jeez and i thought my 140psi across rb20 was low. those are acceptable but no where near spec, you are out of spec when you hit 127psi...

ok im in dire need of rod and main bearings for my rb20det as they are impossible to find here stateside. ive heard that acl bearings are good but not sure if they offer rod bearings along with the mains. if anyone knows where i can get a full set of rods and mains and the company can be contacted online please let me know as im at wits end and the car either has to be fixed or will be towed. thanks, carl

looks good to me, rich but better than mad lean. the white smoke might be because of condensation in the exhaust, mine would do this occasionaly but never used oil or water... turbo cars inherently produce more water in the exhaust...

the plug on the tps body is for wot and idle. take a multimeter and have at it, center pin is common ground for the two so from what i remember if the tps is face 'down' (brass bit down that is) then the idle is on the left of center and wot at the right of center... i might have that reversed lol...

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html take a look, you'll see its not an improvement...

my only worry is blocking off the rear restictor on my rb20 eventho im using a n1 pump. i can see using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front but wouldnt it be better to run another 1.5mm restrictor in the rear feed. im just trying to understand the how and why behind this as my motor isnt as worked as sk stated it should be in that chart...

timing belt has to come off to fit gears so its only a matter of new parts to go back on...

yes, any aftermarket cam gear made for the rb26 will bolt onto the rb20... i personaly run trust gears as they are a VERY quality piece of kit, im happy with them. its not hard to install the cam gears if you follow directions for removing the timing belt properly, and im sure there is a thread somewhere on here about how to remove and install a timing belt. you will need to remove the valve covers tho while installing the gears as you need to be able to hold the cam inplace while removing and installing the gears, if i were you i would wait a bit and save for some cams (which makes a TREMENDOUS diffrence) so that all the effort isnt wasted on just a gear install.

just worn lifters pumping up, a heavier weight oil helps with these or replace for best results. i ran 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter and the old rb20 was happy as could be...

fuel cut revlimiters can cause detonation...best to stick with ignition cuts if possible, reason being there might be some fuel left over from a previous cycle and if it gets sucked in it can be ignited and cause a lean condition.

perhaps the oil pump slipped?

is this thread a joke? why in the hell would you want to make smoke come out from under the hood...

dude! everyone knows that busted ringlands make OH so much more power . sorry to hear tho, sucks in a major way...

can you not fit a rb20 rail to the manifold? if so get a stock rb20 rail and weld on some an fittings, cheap and easy to do...

a proper 30r will clear just fine on a rb20 (and presumably a 25) using a hks manifold, this is how ive got my car setup.

like busky2k said if its not near the head its worthless as the gasses have cooled significantly... pulling the turbo isnt that hard of a job and besides gives a good excuse to drop in an uprated elbow .

a gtr pump should drop in, might be a good idea to get something new tho since most of these cars have a few years on them now...

damn dude, least take a grinding wheel and clean up that hole a bit, looks horrid!