carl h

if you get on google and search '1g dsm bpv mod' or something of the sort you'll find a few pages describing how to modify the std bpv so it holds more boost and what not. usualy involves crushing the bpv and filling a hole in the bottom, but it results in the flutter you are after.

iirc the std ecu in a r33 cannot be retuned due to there not being any external memory and the rom info stored in the cpu. safc or power fc or some kind of standalone for you myfriend...

when we tried this on my buddies car it booted up fine and started right away, put it into the monitior mode and it displayed everything that would normaly be displayed on the rb25pfc. played around with it and to check that the car was indeed running right lowered the revlimit to 1.5k and low and behold it cut at 1.5.

a bit off topic but what does the air temp sensor look like? ive seen it on the rb26 but it would be nice to see what it physicaly looks like, i might try fitting one to my motor and seeing if the pfc will read it...

even if the shimming is only ~1mm you would be suprised what it can do to spring rates...

i dont think that, that logic is quite right. firing order for all rb motors is the same no, and if it wasnt then you wouldnt be able to run a wasted spark setup on the motors wiring them the same way. the only diffrence between the 2 ecu's is the vtc trigger, boost solenoid trigger, and clys 4 and 6 triggers being swapped other than that both carry the same exact pinout. if i could get this picture of the r32 ecu plug to upload you would see what i mean... we'll slap the pfc back on my friends car this weekend....see if we cant get video proof .

yes the car will run without it plugged in but it will suck alot. unplugged it is disengaged. it can be controlled via a pfc or a retuned ecu or a stand alone.

is the gauge correct? what kind of oil? what kind of ambient temps? it might be a bad gauge or it might just be cold oil, worst case senario its a bad pump.

perhaps, but if you are taking the car to a pfc tuner then they can copy the fuel/timing maps from the rb20 base map and put it into the pfc. we did try this on one of my friends cars and it does indeed run fine...i'll see if i can get copies of the base maps from the rb20/25 and do some comparesons between the 2 but i doubt that besides where the vtc kicks in and out it wont be any diffrent...we'll see. oh and heres a copy of the r32 ecu pinout for anyone caring to compare.

bah the new acf neo is just a fancier s-afc, not much more. in the end its still a maf manupulator, which suck, i learned that the hard way... pfc is only a few bucks more than the afc neo so why short yourself.

ok so its been said it can be done but you are confused to as how to do it, well no worries heres a short rundown of what to do... remeber when using a rb25pfc on a rb20 you MUST upgrade injectors due to the r33 rb25det having 370cc injectors vs the 270cc injectors that came std on the rb20. download the attatched pdf document, nevermind the fact that its for an r33 gts-t with an rb25det, the pinouts are the same for the rb20 except 2 pins. on the pinout locate pins 112 and 114 on the ecu plug and carefuly using a small pin or piece of thin stiff wire remove these pins and swap them (you are swapping the triggers for injectors 4 and 6 around). to do this you'll need to remove the clear ecu backing plug cover and then with the wire on the front side of the ecu there will be a small tab above the pin that needs to be bent back a bit to pull the pin out, i'll try to get pics later. ok, now that you've swapped these pins start up the pfc and set the injector correction for what ever injectors you have, remember to install a resistor pack if you are using low impedence injectors... if all went well when you crank the car it should start up and idle well on the first go, verify that afr's are good (which they should be as the rb25 pfc runs stuff silly rich...) and enjoy! now go tune the car and terrorize r33 owners RB25DET_ECR33_Pinout.pdf

well in an effort to try and make my rb20 track worthy when i put it back together ive been told about modding the oil pickup into a 'swinging pickup'. im not sure how this is done or how i woud go about doing it but apparently it allows the oil pickup to move X degrees in all directions so that its always submerged in oil (least in theroy that is). any shops or individuals done this, it seems like only a few shops have done this on their cars but those who have done it apparently dont have oil starvation problems on the track. i plan to run a rb26 n1 pump with collar fitted to the crank so i just dont want to suck up air when cornering hard...

actualy to me it sounds like a farked water temp sensor, when they go bad they cause erratic idling and poor performance. the bad thing about them going south is that they do it slowly and intermitently, so while it might not happen when the car is 'cool' (still at operating temp but hasnt been driven) it will happen after a few spirited runs. its worth a go and the sensor is cheap as (14$usd here) and it really does sound like that is the problem. hope that helps...

if you have the gauges and wiring then i say go ahead and toss them in, they are quality gauges as one of my buddies has them in his car and they work quite nicely.

thought so, after trying to fit vg30de arp rod bolts to my rb20 rods and finding they are to long i figured the rods were diffrent...

can i use rb26dett rod bearings in my poor rb20 or do i have to go with rb20 specific bits?

my rb20 was making 288rwkw, but im overhere stateside.

the gt30r i have on my rb20 using the hks cast manifold comes VERY close to the engine mount and xmember. cheers.

vg30de/sr20 rod bolts DONOT work on rb20 rods, i know i have a set . looking to find out what bolts fit as arp seems to have no idea what works (least we cant seem to tell them what exactly we need). the vg bolts are too long and dont provide enough thread engagement as the nut bottoms out before its secure and you cant tap them out to the proper size as it causes stress risers... i did put a post up on nicoclub.com in the rb section about what parts to buy for main studs and head bolts, perhaps some help.

hks cams in my experience are very lopey compared to other 'jdm' brand cams, my tomei's are super smooth with an occaional hickup. as for running 9.15mm lift i think you will def need to grind the head a bit as my 8.9mm cams BARELY clear the head.

for rb swaps into s chassis cars may i sudgest a few websites? www.racebread.com <-- nothinb but rb related swaps into s chassis cars www.nicoclub.com <-- dedicated rb engine section, covers most stuff you need for a swap. www.240sxforums.com <-- again another forum with a rb section, good faq.

it will work, on the supra you may need to convert to a parallel setup if still on the stock twins.

orly? hrmmm, how would i go about setting the lash then since the rb20 had hydro lifters? when the motor is rebuilt i could have the machine shop cut the valves down to size but still leaves the problem of setting proper lash and if the lifters will work with the hydro cams i have...

interesting. i wonder if they have a lifter to suit the rb20 head... if so i may be interested if i can use these with my tomei 'lash' cams then they would be mint for a proper 8.5-9k redline.

old profec b (not the v2, that one sucks) but the one with three dials, you CANT go wrong with that controler.