carl h

if you could ever get that car to hook up and go you would have a supra/bike killer on your hands... awesome work, rb swaps into s chassis cars are loads of fun. also check out www.lsauto.com for a drop in tach that reads the 6cyl signal or grab a r32 gauge cluster and with a touch of trimming the r32 tacho fits into the s13 cluster. as for the front end being a touch higher after the swap you are spot on, you now have more weight behind the xmember than before so its gonna lift a bit, i noticed that too when i did my rb20 swap into my s14, works a treat and improves handling a bit.

gt30r with .86 or for some fun the .63 ar...

in my rb20 s14 i got about 30mpg highway and 25 city... if i romped on it the numbers obviously go down but not as much as you would think, got bout 20mpg being an ass round town on boost alot. had chipped ecu,550cc injectors, gt30r/hks 3037 turbo,z32 maf.

yeah the e-01 doest handle internal gates too well on autoboost mode but works well in manual mode. ive a few friends with the old profec b and it is great as well assuming you can find one in good nic, just set the boost and it holds it rock solid.

more like the brass tee bit that has bspt male and female ends but the center hole is tapped for npt which is no good.... i could run a sandwitch plate but i want to add an oil cooler to the car and i dont think that stacking sandwitch adaptors is a good idea.

the thread is 1/8" bspt, do not try to put a npt thread in it else you will cause damage. im still on the lookout for a proper gauge adaptor...

i would imagine that doing the afformentioned mods and adding a sutibly sized oil cooler that the oil system's capacity would be enlarged a bit as well; so perhaps surge would be reduced quite a bit. while adding an extra quart or so to the sump would work i would think it would cause parastic loss due to excess oil in said sump, no?

there is only one pfc for the rb25 and it works on the s1 or s2 motors... i think i stated this before but when using a rb25pfc you MUST upgrade injectors because the pfc expects 370cc injectors stock while the rb20 has 270's, not a hard thing to rectify and should be done anyways.

your best bet is to go with a rb25pfc, unless you are trying to run dejetro or something i dont see why you would go for the rb26 one. swap 2 wires on the wire loom and away you go with a rb25pfc, bit more on the rb26 one to make it fit. fyi rb20 maf = rb25 maf, so with the 25pfc you can keep your stock mafo around for a bit...

no way in hell a farked o2 sensor would do that, i didnt run an o2 on my car and had no problem with it. im gonna guess perhaps bad gas and granny driving did that, but like i said eariler (and this applies to most if not all nissans) you have go give the girl a bit of a go once in a while to keep her happy.

that engine wasnt DRIVEN like it should have been, carbon builds up when you drive like grandma and dont give the old girl a good flogging once in a while. when i pulled my head off my block nary a spec of carbon in the head and only a thin coat on the pistons, went well and never had a problem before i blew it. proly misfired due to the massive ammounts of carbon buildup, hot spots and dieseling occur.

lol you think your engine bay is tight? try cramming a rb into a s chassis, talk about tight.

tried the dealer? i think you will find that its almost cheaper to buy forged pistons rather than go back to oem, my set of 6 cp pistons cost me 650$usd shipped while oem pistons were about 110$usd apiece....

walboro pumps overhere in the rb community are seen as dodgy pieces o crap, ive seen them melt, fail, and seize up. not uncommon for a walboro to fail 1-2 years from original install date, i run a tomei r32 gtr pump in my personal car.

regarding restrictors and such, what kind of restrictors should one use on a rb20 using a n1 oil pump? also ive a shot the back of my head and not sure where i should fit the external drain, advice on both q's is always appreciated.

garry, what do you think about modifying the std rail to be dual feed (feed on opposing ends) for more even fuel flow. i had considered doing this to my rail to help prevent leanout.

pulled 387whp on tomei pro cams 260/8.9mm work a treat and pulled right up to the red paint. i would go for those as they are not too dear and make power without loosing too much low end.

im not sure why you would want to do this as they have shorter duration..... check out tomei's website in teh cam section for the specs, if anything grab a set of redtop cams they are longer (duration) than the silver top rb20det. *edit* the intake cam on the r31 rb20det had 8* more duration than the silvertop so it would a tiny upgrade over stock. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

a bov wont add to the power nor subtract from it. my guess is that the bov was leaking and causing boost to leak out hence the feel of "less power", stock one will leak too after a certian ammount of perssure neccistating the need to upgrade to a better bpv or a bov.

ah thats right, got the 2 confused. sorry bout that...

the r-fit is a monitor iirc, not a fuel tuner.

i <3 my greddy e-01, great boost controler and if you are keen enough you can rig it to do other things as well. i run my widebands output into the e01 main unit to not only display afr, but also allow me to log them vs rpm and boost, great for when im tweaking the car. also running the wideband into the boost controler allows you to set a boost cut should the afr's go stupid lean, while it wont go back past the base boost it may keep the motor together long enough for you to notice. the auto mapping on the greddy can be a bit iffy at times, when its first setup it works fantasticly but overtime for some reason it seems to 'drift' and loose its calibration, however the manual mode is nothing to be messed with; once its set up properly on manual it will hold boost like no other.

ive seen a local guy who made a bov with some pipe fittings and misc pvc bits, apparently it works really well.

nib, im really going for reliable modest power. ~300hp daily (gt30r, so its hard to be efficent under 14psi which is my gate boost), but ive already got arp rod bolts and head studs for the motor as i dont have much faith in the stock rod bolts and i always replace head bolts when i rip a head off. since i want to be able to crank the boost occasionaly and romp round with 400hp every now and again (as i did before the motor blew) should i upgrade the mains to arp equipment? after all i plan to keep a stockish revlimit (8k this time round) and like i said just going for mild reliable power.

well its getting close to time to box all the new bits ive gotten for my rb20 up and take it down to the machine shop to be fitted but ive a question about the main studs. over here in the us its hard to come by internal rb parts so i was wondering if i could reuse my stock main bolts or should i replace them with new stock components or upgrade to arp stuff. if its reccomended to use arp what studs do i need for it to work, as no one seems to know over here. carl