GreySky

I got one of those ecu lcd displays and have mounted it in my car, i get my afm up to around 4.8v before it cuts out. And yeah your right it scares the s@#$ out of you the first time it happens. The rb2530 maxes it out in that case around 5500rpm at 9 psi, less in 4th. Think its time for the next stage of the project....

Guilt Toy Bonnet definately wont close on an r33. I know a mechanic in Newcastle who has done 3 of these conversions to r33's and he buys a custom made plenum everytime to solve the prob. If you want his number pm me. Does anybody know why my r32 rb2530 will cut out sometime at the top of the rev range in third gear. Im assuming I have maxed out the afm, but does anyone know what the built in cut outs/defenders are and how they feel. Mine will cut all ignition to the motor until i remove my foot from the accelerator, it will just coast, then it goes again as if nothing happened. Any ideas and how it can be overcome are appreciated. Grey

I think its fairly obvious that CerealKiller is asking if GTR cams are worth the upgrade into an rb20 and if they will bolt in directly without any modifications. Im curious myself.... Grey

Due to the stud pattern being different the gasket wont fit up directly. However if you are in a bit of a hurry and cant be bothered sourcing an rb25 gasket, get some tin snips and cut the vl gasket into individual port gaskets. Then get a metal punch and elongate the circular holes into longer ovals, this has to be done due to the different shape of the ports on the 25. Its a fair bit of stuffing around but its not hard... Hope that helps Cheers Grey

Hahaha yeah they do look a lot lighter than they are, my supercheap auto engine stand was busting its ass holding up the complete 2530 and had a nice bow in it. Unless youve got x ray vision you wont be able to check whether the block has any defects/cracks which may prevent it from holding up to the horsepower you want out of it. Whoever builds it will test it and give you a report before he starts id say, like mine did. The price will depend on how far you want to go and how thorough you want to be. If your paying retail for the work Id say $2500 for a motor with similar specs to mine is a bit conservative, actually very. Get your rods tension checked and if they are ok they should be able to cop most of what you throw at them, get them shot peened if you like its fairly cheap and makes a fair difference apparently. My engine builder is by far the most thorough and reasonably priced builder ive ever met or heard of, his attention to detail is bordering on obsesive compulsive . If anyone is interested Ill ask if he wants to build another one and his prices. Ive noticed that some of you guys are throwing some pretty big power figures around eg 350rwkw+. Dont get me wrong I luv big horsepower but I reckon any more power than that and your turning an awesome track car into a pretty average drag car, for a GTST skyline anyway. I have lots of trouble getting my power to the ground on the quarter as it is and im not making anywhere near that. But each to their own I guess, just be prepared for traction problems....yeah yeah i know everyone gets all excited about having a car with traction problems haha A tip when your getting your motor ready is to get two engine stands and put the motor you pulled out next to your RB30 bottom end. This makes it really easy to see what it has to look like and transfer everything over CORRECTLY so you can easily see what has to go where on the new motor eg pumps, hoses, lines etc. Hope some of that helps Cheers Grey

The note is deffinately deeper. The great thing ive noticed though about the conversion is the reduction in cabin noise. I know it sounds a bit strange but now i can cruise around with much lower revs thanks to the ridiculous amount of torque. At full song though people definately know im coming up behind them, im just not sure whats louder, the induction noise of the hungry 3 litre or the deep note of the exhaust blasting my used Optimax at the car behind me. Either way im still grinning from ear to ear everytime i take it for a drive. As far as exhausts go Ive got a custom dump and 3' all the way through and I think its plenty. Motor is pretty safely run in now I'd say so I might start seeing what the top of the rev range is like. Some specs on my motor for anyone interested in reviving a s2 RB30E: Engine was acid bathed to clean all the crap out Rebored and honed 20thou Con rods were tension checked, its a good idea to tell your engine builder what power figure your chasing and he should be able to tell you if the motor your using will stand up to it New oversize pistons, rings and bearings Tension checked and honed main tunnels My motor was balanced to a grade 9. To put it into perspective I had the rods, pistons, crank, flywheel and pressure plate all balanced. A V8 supercar is balanced to 10. I used a good aftermarket copper head gasket My head is an r32 non vct rb25 head and it bolted up directly. For anyone doing this conversion this head is the way to go. Once the engine was in and all the lines hooked up I literally plugged it back in, cranked it until i had oil pressure, plugged the igniter back in, kicked it once and it started as if id just switched it off. If anyones trying to put one in an r32 and has any questions ill be glad to help as much as i can... Cheers Grey

Thatd be the way to go, i used what i had handy. Just have to put the rivets where they dont hit anything on the inside...

The angle of the cam belt actually made it foul the cover slightly so I made some simple mods just with pliers and bent it out. The gap can be filled with a strip of sheet metal some pliers to bend it into shape and some rivets, then throw some black paint over it or whatever.

Hahaha yeah I know how it gets, i was like a kid at christmas time the night before i finished mine. I am running stock boost which ends up being around 10 psi in my car. Ive done 200ks in it now and am starting to get a really itchy foot. Ive scratched it twice now and both times it resulted in howling (both me and the tires) and my ass sliding out from under me like it used to with the rb20 in the wet. All i can say is "How bloody good is TORQUE!!" Once we got a few finished we should go for a cruise one day if anyones interested.....

Ok well i hope youve got some time to read.... I used the pdf Joel created and it did help alot with the general motor building stuff. Im not sure if it has changed since i downloaded it so ill just go through most of the stuff i did and hope i dont overlap too much. The Timing belt i used was a Gates T866 and i positioned my tensioner slighly to the left approx 4mm to that in the diagram which made it real easy to tension the belt in the correct spot. The other tensioner was placed in the idler location on the right, however as the rb30 block doesnt have a flat surface in that spot i machined up a piece of flat bar to fit into the groove and give me a flat surface to bolt my tensioner onto. This might not make much sense, but those guys doing it probably know what im talking about. Using the r32 power steering pump mounts you will need to make up some 15mm spacers for two of the bolts as the rb30 block is slightly different to the rb20. AC bolts up fine. Pull all the water fittings off the rb20 and screw them into the rb30. All your brackets will no longer match up being 30mm too short so have some thin metal strips and a drill handy tomake new ones as you go. This is for the hoses on the drivers side of the block which run to your heater and manifold. Use your rb20 fitting for the thermo cover and your right. I used rb20 intake and exhaust manifolds to reduce complications, and it did. They bolted straight on and all lines etc almost matched up. On the turbo oil/water feed you will need to get a small pipe bender and change the angle and length of your lines to account for the 30mm extra lentgh. No need to buy new ones if you dont want. Oil drain needs a new longer bit of hose, make sure its oil/heat resistant. I did this conversion attempting to keep as much original stuff as possible so i am using standard injectors and ecu. My turbo is an r34 one, which comes on boost around 2000 rpm and is definately working hard, this new motor flows like you wouldnt believe. The computer is handling the increased air flow remapping itself pretty well with good AF ratios. However I am taking it to sydney once it is run in to get tuned. I will be keeping the car like this until I buy a new computer and turbo in about 12 months. To make it fit you'll need to cut out two small sections (approx 2 inches each) of the bonnet skeleton. My intake manifold was fouled as well as the front intercooler pipe that passes by the radiator. Thats about all I can think of at this stage, but im sure im forgeting heaps so i can keep you posted if you want to hear it... Cheers Grey P.S Although im trying to behave while im running it in, squeezing the throttle on just past half at 60ks in 2nd had the 235's screaming and me very surprised to say the least

I finished my RB2530 conversion on Friday. I am still running the new motor in but already it feels absolutely awesome, the increase in torque has surprised me even after all the good things ive heard about it. It was a tight fit into the R32 with some minor bonnet alterations having to be done and some lengthening of the fmic piping, but it does fit. All in all it was a fairly straight forward conversion however there are a few fidly little things which take the most time to complete, well worth it though. If anyone has any questions about fitting one into an r32 feel free to message me. Grey

I have an RB20/25 low mount stainless steel manifold for sale. It has mandrel bends, custom bracing and a t2 flange. It is for internal wastegate turbos, although i dont think plumbing an external port into it would be hard. It is supposedly trust but cant be sure. The bracing is factory made and very neat. Price is $800 ono

Hey mate, Wasnt really looking for a motor and g/box right now but if you'd like to pm me your reserve and its in my budget i might be interested. Id need ECU wiring etc for a heart transplant into an R32. Cheers