Mitsuboost30

Ya i guess i will take it to a shop and see what they say! Thanks!

I was going to try and do the leg press but that will weaken the hinge even more.. Let me know if there are any different solutions. thanks

Im sorry i wasnt very thorough in my description. Bnr32 driver seat the back of the seat has a "gangster lean" lol as Troy said yes the back of the seat is bent toward the center console.

Hey gents So have the typical bent drivers seat.. Finally tired of it.. Wondering if there is a DIY on how to fix it on this forum or another?? Or have any of you tackled it yourselfs? Let me know please.. My back is telling me its time Thanks

I will be manually turning the motor over and pumping air into the cylinder instead of cranking with the key

Awesome info. Thank you yea belt was def to tight. going to do compression test to see if valves are ok. (fingers crossed) hopefully its just a new belt and cams.

I am planning on that tonight. After a saw that decided some beers were in order. Will report back. Thanks

so im kind of happy and at the same time very upset... hopeing with the immediatte shutoff that i didnt skip timing and of damage anything and HOPEFULLY it will just be cam replacement. what you gents think

well.. i figured why it shut off........... just from a quick look.... seems like cam broke! cant imagine my cam gear would be crooked like that for any other reason...

I'm going to drain the year old gas. Clean injectors, clean plugs and check gaps. Will report back. Any word and how to properly check the timing?

Is there any walk thrus on how to properly check timing?

No did not use a timing light. If the motor is top dead. And all markings are lined up? Car would idle fine. If timing was out of whack would it not idle different also?

set the timing as in set the motor with cylinder no 1 fully extended, and match the markings on the cam gears to the timing belt and crank gear. yes

So let me give some background so theres enough information to make a proper assesment full tank of gas been sitting for a year. recently put in gas treatment. Did a fresh rebuilt acl main and rod bearings all new gaskets n1 pump my stock timing belt was in excellent condition so i reused it Warmed oil up to go take the car out and seat the rings. Pulled it out of the driveway and it started running rough thought it could just be the gas so went on. as i went on coming to a stop i had to keep on the throttle so the car would not shut off. Ran really rough so i turn around and procced to go home. Pull it in the garage. and it is somewhat idleing on its own Then out of no where it shuts off on its own like the power was cut. very abrupt. I did have timing belt whine when the car was started, assuming it was alittle tight. but was told thats semi normal and would go away. havent pulled the car apart in anyway. Its to late to do so. Any ideas? when it first happened my first thought was timing belt snapped. since the whine. But i dont think thats it after thinking logically. It just made me nervous as it happened so quick. No noise. Just cut off........ SIGGHHHH

Well since this seems to be the easiest solution i will attempt this first. I would rather try this than take the box off

After doing alittle research on part numbers. Knowing that these numbers posted and recomended are old. It seams that the sleeve 30501-U0200 has been superceded by part number 30501-A6801 AND that has been superceded by part number 30501-S0284. I was sent 30501-S0284 and after research it is an 18mm sleeve.. ?!?!?!?!? How and why would a 16mm sleeve be replace by an 18mm sleeve. Well I ordered a 14mm sleeve. 30501-N1604 will report back when i get it installed to see if it fixed me issue.

So standard is 26mm correct? I have a 16mm in now. and no luck im leaning towards a 12mm. gonna give it alil till i can get some kind of confirmation from someone.

Still looking for proper sleeve size.

Karl that would be awesone uf you ccould do that i would really appriciate it. Dobz I did notice there seems to be more than ussual presure on the slave cylinder.

That is going to be my first attempt when i get some time. The clutch pedal adjustment. I also had the same thought that it couldnt be that much adjustment to make that big of a difference to the clutch itself. And yes im coming to the conclusion that the clutch sleeve OS Giken has listed on their site is infact to big. Which inturn keeps the pressure plate in a neutral state... Sigh.... Anyone running this clutch? what sleeve size are you running? The sleeve OS recommended was the 16mm I think im going to try the 12mm or 14mm... any suggestions? if anyone will run into the same problem and comes across this thread hear are bearing sizes ad part# 30501-A3800 12mm, 30501-N1601 14mm, 30501-U0200 16mm, 30501-S0200 18mm, 30501-B6000 20mm, 30501-S0160 22mm, 30501-K0404 24mm, 30501-K0510 26mm, 30501-N1600 28mm, 30501-N8400 30mm

So as title states. I just recently installed my TS2CD OS Giken. with the recommended sleeve and bearing Release bearing : Nissan 30502-14601. Release sleeve : Nissan 30501-U0200 Now I went to pull the car out of the garage and moved about 2 inches with the clutch out and the car in gear. Also i can put the transmission in gear with the car on and the clutch NOT depressed. basically feels like the car is stuck in neutral. what would you guys recommend? Slave was bled properly and clutch pedal has right feel to it. stuck and would like to try some things before i pull the transmission and put a smaller sleeve on.