Midnight_Blue_32

No accessories after dash swap? Hey, just recently swapped out my tired cracked and bubbled dash for a much nicer condition one in 89 r32 gtr. Everything went smoothly untill i went for a drive after. Firstly i noticed my head unit and cig lighter wasn't lighting up (figured it was just a fuse or maybe i forgot to reconnect the earth also my but as soon as i stopped and the turbo timer kicked in it all came on and worked as normal. I originally thought it must be the turbo timer so i disconnected that and still no tunes(it is a hks one that is connected with a loom, not spliced in). So i think i must have forgotten to plug something back in. So Before i decide to go ripping the whole dash out is there any particular plugs/ areas i should look at first?

all sorted. new ignitor and plugs then she fired up perfectly. thanks for the help guys

well after i fitted the new loom it did start for a few seconds but it was very rough, wouldn't idle properly etc. but since then I've got nothing. is it possible its flooded, even though its been sitting for a few days? i have also checked the fuel pump relays and they're fine, the injectors click when i spin the cas so it seems fine and i checked the ecu as well and its good. so I'm leaning toward the ignitor, is there any way to test it? it has spark so it should be good? But I'm still gonna try swapping it out, just waiting on my friend to come over and ill test it with his.

Have a bit of a issue with my r32 gtr, i took it for a quick drive the other week and all seemed fine until i got it home and tried to start it the next day, originally i though it may be low on fuel so i have toped up the tank and have noticed for some reason it continues to blown the #7 fuse under the dash which is labeled engine control. i have unplugged everything in the engine bay that i can find along with the ecu (link g4), but it still continues to blow. i have also unplugged both computers in the boot along with the fuel pump and still nothing? i though it may have been the main loom so i have since replaced that too and still no success, i also checked the wiring under the dash and it looks fine aswell. So now I'm kinda out of ideas. i have searched for a solution on the forums but have found nothing that helps my situation. what exactly does the fuse control? i have read that it controls the hicas but i have removed all of that. The engine check light also is not lighting up but i figured that was because of the fuse. Im at a loss what to do next, I'm considering ripping out the whole interior to find the fault where ever it may be, but i'd rather avoid that. so any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Hi, just curious to know if my awd system is working correctly or has an issue that hopefully the gtr gurus could point me in the right direction if theres a fault somewhere. Since the only gtr ive been in is my own i dont have anything to compare it to. Basically the 4wd light comes and goes as it pleases randomly for no apparent reason, but it will decide to work correctly about 50% of the time, would there be any reason for it to do this (system has been bled, no fault codes and tyres/rim are all the same sizes). Any possible idea?. Also ive noticed that when the awd system is working it works completely fine when going straight but if cornering it seems that its all rwd, even under hard acceleration. Is this normal? Or have i got a fault somewhere?

yeah i know, its been on the to do list for a while but when i bought the link it was extremely cheap, but ive booked it in to have the cat replace next week then its going back for a retune i was orginially planning on going to mercury but ive heard some bad rumours about them from some other gtr owners ive spoken to. yeah im sure its something small and theyll figure it out when it goes back in for a retune.

I dont plan on going in and kicking and screaming, every time I went in when it was hesitating they were happy to help. So im sure they will have another look at it and try to sort it out. Yeah the cat is just the shitty compliance one, Ive been planning to replace it for a while. If there was any issues with how the car was running i imagine they would have mentioned something.

The main reason i went there was because id heard good things but Yeah i was pretty disappointed with power figure that it made not to mention how bad it is on fuel. If i could go back i definitely wouldnt of got them to tune it. I might take it back tomorrow and see what they have to say about it all, hopefully they'll be able to sort it out so i dont have to spend double the money i should.

1989 R32 Gtr Mods: 1997 r33 vspec engine n1 r32 steel wheel turbos Splitfire coils Apexi pods Stainless cat back exhaust, some unknowm brand aftermark down pipes Gizzmo ebc tuned to 14psi Link g4 ecu tuned by east coast customs 164.0kw Is it me or my car make not as much power as it should be?

Hey, basically ive recently had my 32gtr fitted with a link g4 ecu and had it custom tuned by east coast customs in brisbane. Orginilly when i picked it up i had a lot of issues with car hesitating when i accelerated when it was at idle and under load. So i took it back and they eventually sorted it out. But since I got it tuned its gotten pretty bad on fuel (before the tune i was getting around 280-300 odd kms out of a tank) im getting around 200kms a tank now. Which to me seems wrong, the car is basically stock with an catback, splitfire coils, pod filters, boost controller and now the tune. Im not really sure what to do, it seems to be running fine and the tuner told me when i was speaking to him that hed disabled the o2 sensors and being a link ecu the afms are disabled. So im looking for opinions on what i should be getting per tank and if the tune is out of wack and making it chew the juice or if something else might be causing it.

havent been here for a while so i thought id share a update, ive bought some new plates for it (the 47tac ones were my mates), a new complete rear diff/subframe to fix the previous owners dodgy welding repair job(mustve been put over a gutter??) and a link g4 ecu to get fitted as soon as its back together and i have the cash to tune it. let me know what you think.

god that is awesome!

All sorted. Seems the ignitor died

Ok so I've found what the problem was, one of the plugs for the knock sensors must've not be on properly and has come off. I sorted that out the it fired up fine but then died after a few seconds.

hey everybody, I'm new to the forum! But I figured i start a build thread for my 32 gtr. Basically i always wanted a 32 gtr and after owning a few commodores i thought it was time to actually get one. i bought it about 2 years ago with the intention of building a nice street gtr by starting with a pretty cheap base and starting from there. So after searching for one for a few weeks i decided on this one, it is a Dark blue 1989 model with minor mods and mainly just rough around the edges due to the previous owner neglecting it. So i made a deposit on it and picked it up a few days later and on the drive home the oil pump gave out due not being serviced for quite some time. So i started saving for bits and pieces to have my first try at building a forged bottom end. Due to a lack funds I tried to do as much as i could for just a basic first build then in time i could redo it when Ive got the money to fund it all. Heres the specs so far, let me know what you think Engine: R32 rb26 Block (decked, honed and dipped), R33 crank (reground .020 and balanced), tomei sump baffle, tomei oil restrictor, eagle Rods with arp bolts, Wisco 86.5, N1 water and oil pumps, Nismo thermostat, ACL race series bearings, all new genuine nissan gaskets, braided turbo lines, rebuilt r33 turbos with steel wheels, SplitFire Coils, Mspec 50mm radiator, blitz mesh pods,aircon removed, powdercoated cam and belt covers with a polished coil cover, gizzmo electronic boost controller and excedy button clutch Exhaust: Apexi N1 3" stainless exhaust with aftermarket downpipes Suspension: HSD HR Coilovers, Hicas lock bar with hicas completely removed Wheels: 18x10 +15 Rota Grids with rays nutts Other Modifications: UAS Big front rotor kit, inc billet caliper spacer (from a 292mm to 330mm rotor), Ferodo DS3000 pads, DBA 5000 two piece slotted rotor, apexi boost gauge, auto meter oil press gauge, hks turbo timer and Speed limit defender, N1 front vents, 5% tint on the rear section, HIDs, rear wiper deleted, modified headlights, momo steering wheel, trust gear knob and snap release boss kit. how it looked when i got it Now

Hey Ive just swapped my 32 motor out for a 33 rb26 and im having trouble trying to figure out what this plug is for.

yeah ive used the sensors from my orginial 26, there is a o2 sensor near the cat, but i doubt thats causing it. i thought the motors werent that different that id have to run a 33 ecu, also ive noticed that the standard oil temp gauge is not working. Would that cause it to be playing up like it is? even so ill have a look at that tomorrow. Before the motor swap it never had this problem so i mustve messed up somewhere.

Yeah I've replaced the water temp sensors and the one at the front of the plenum is that all that needs to be changed? Yeah it's still running the stock ecu

I have just replaced my 26 with one from a late model r33 and now I'm having problems with it starting after it has been warmed up and it sometimes stalls and won't start, when its cold it starts just fine with no issues. I'm still using all the 32 loom and sensors but I can't figure out what the problem is. Any insight?

I dont know if it would be worth getting repaired because I've found complete heads from 600-1500, so it'd probably be just cheaper to replace it. But it Looks like ill be pulling it out next week and inspecting the damage and going from there, I just hope the pistons aren't damage because I did a forged rebuild on the bottom end about 10000 Kms ago.

Not really from what I can remember I was done getting up it and I was only just getting back up to speed. When it happened I thought I'd popped a cooler pipe off.

I few months ago I had a bit of trouble with my 32r when It died on me while I was having a bit of spirited drive, after giving it a quick look over trying to sort out the problem I had noticed that the cam key for the cas had snapped so at the time I figured ill leave it sit for a while so I work on my other cars. So tonight I started to get stuck into it and discovered that the real problem was that I had snapped my exhaust cam which has caused damage to the front 2 cam caps. I'm just wondering what else could've been damaged in the process ie valves or even pistons? And is it possible to get the damage to head repaired or would I be better off just replacing the whole head since I plan on having the engine out in the next few weeks anyway. I've added a pic of the cam but I forgot to get a shot of the head damage but i should have one tomorrow.

Yeah I thought n1s were 3 piece. But it's a bit strange that these a plastic. I layed them over my orginal skirts to get a rough idea how they'd look but I didn't think the front bits lined up right. But I'll sus something out when I get them fitted properly. But thanks for the input fellas.

I bought these side skirts recently and I kinda need to know what kind/ brand they are because they're missing the little from sections. I've asked the guy I bought them from but he has no clue and I was hoping someone might have an idea what they are. They're made of plastic too if that helps

Here's my 32 at a downshift meet a few months ago, it's off the road at the moment because I'm on 1 point probation for a year. But soon it'll be resprayed and hopefully a t04z or gt35r.