Ionos

Just the exhaust left. Reduced to $150 firm.

or ... or.... buy a Veyron!! Not everyone has a cool $1000 lying around just to get slightly better intake temps and response. Back on topic - I wrapped mine but can't say it made any noticable difference. However, I haven't actually shielded my pod yet, naughty naughty!

Just so I understand, boost jet is a fancy name for a non-adjustable bleeder type boost controller, right? Never heard it called that before. Anyhow, bleeder valves are generally the worst type of boost controller. If you want to do it on the cheap, you'd be better off installing a precision spherical coil actuated pressure regulater install, which is more commonly referred to as a ball and spring boost controller. There's a great one on ebay for about $35, search for 'Turbotech'.

Search. Has been covered many, many times. Otherwise, there will be a book at most places you buy oil that tells you which type to use. If you can't figure either of these options out, you probably shouldn't be changing your own oil.

Just the Exhaust left! $200 for a Jap brand exhaust with stainless muffler, bargain!

Check Engine Light.

Now that's uncalled for. You talk about 'real world experience'. Do you think this guy is building a car purely to use on the track? 99% of people on here use their cars as their daily drivers. For a streeter, a 100mm core making 240kw atw is completely unnecessary. When he makes bigger power, sure, but for now he's better sticking with the stock cooler.

Take it easy mate - he's just trying to be honest with ya. If you are seriously aiming for big power, what I would do is hold onto the cooler for now and not install it just yet. Reasons as follows - a) You won't gain any power just yet, and you might actually loose a little throttle response. b) You can sell it easily if you need the cash all of a sudden c) When you get some bigger turbos, injectors etc you can install them all at once and get everything tuned in one hit to save money. Cheers.

Likely no power gain, at most <5 hp. The standard GTR front mount is good for 300awkw. You won't be making that much on standard turbos, therefore no gain. Sorry dude.

GTR ones you can.

Looking for 60mm Single Gauge Greddy A piller pod. Also still looking for a R33 passenger door in white.

Bump. Exhaust and Dash Facia still available.

Hmm it appeared that these bits slipped off easily when I took it out? Mabey my memory is hazey...

Hi all, I took my shifter apart today and the pivot bush is quite worn and loose, hence my gearstick doesn't shift as smoothly as it should. I've seen a lot of threads talking about the smal nylon bush on the end of the shifter, but in this case it's the pivot bush in the middle of the stick that is worn. There are two parts to the bush, the one that the shifter sits in, which in turn then sits in one that sits in the gearbox casing. Hope that makes sense - can I get a replacement of these parts? Cheers.

As mentioned, check your fluid level. If it's ok, get the power steering system bled - this is best done at a mechanic. From here one of three things will happen - a) it fixes it, hurray! b) it fixes it for a while, then it comes back. You have a leak in the system somewhere, mechanic can advise. Can be expensive to fix, cheap & temporary fix is to put an additive to your PS fluid to clog the leak. c) it doesn't fix it at all, then your power steering pump could be shagged. Cheers.

Hi gang, Changed the thread topic since I got my answer, and some good discussion going on. RB25DET gearbox takes 2.8L - more will go in but will cause problems. Some people fill it to the brim, that is not correct! You wouldn't fill your engine with oil to the brim would you? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...+oil&st=20# Cheers.

Well, all reports I've heard are that it can work wonders on a worn gearbox. I've got a bad crunch going into 5th gear. I also used it in my last skylines with no dramas, but open to hearing alternatives short of a gearbox recondition.

Hi all, Went down to autobahn today to pick up some Redline shockproof, but it seems they don't sell it anymore. Where can I get some in Adelaide? Northern suburbs preferred if possible. Cheers.

I think this was posted a while back ... http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=...mp;q=whoo+whooo

Hehe - still doesn't work. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-Whistler-Fake...emZ280182564868

R33 Stuff! 3" Cat Back Exhaust - $200 Professionally done silver interior - $100 15mm Spacers - $70 Drift Catch Can - $50 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...37#entry3423937

Bump.

Another great moment by the Liberals, fixing up Labors stupidity. The whole concession thing shits me - why the f**k should my full price ticket subsadise students and old people. I already pay a whole heap of tax to subsidese these same people. Bring on the same fare for everyone, and make the cost of going to and from work tax deductable.

Don't have on myself, but my understanding is that the hi-flow is about the same as the 2535, which means 240-250rwkw, or 250-260rwkw with cams. Response would be still good, a little laggier then standard which is mainly due to the steel wheels being heavier then the standard ceramic/nylon combination.

That price is for the turbo only, you would need to get oil, water lines, gaskets, etc all locally. If you want the full kit, you're looking at $2900. http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbo-kit-gt-sports-pro