Ionos

+ 4 Do they come with gaskets & bolts? Is that $70 including postage?

Damn dude, sorry to hear that. I saw your car on the weekend at the main north rd/grand junction intersection, pulled up along side you in a white r33 and gave a nod. Will keep my eyes out for it, hope you get it back.

Well there you go - GT-RS - $3000 Injectors - $800 Z32 - $300 Clutch - $800 Suspension - $1500 (optional but highly recommended - what is the point of having all that power if you can't put it down) Retune - $200

Turbo - get an HKS GT-RS. Around $2.5k new, $1.5k second hand + fitting costs (new will include kit with all components to fit). If you are paying someone to fit, you're looking at around $300 - $500. Should do 270-280rwkw on 18PSI. Boost from 3k or slightly before. I have an HKS 2535 which is just a little smaller then the GT-RS, and it boosts from around 2.7k, making 250rwkw on 18 PSI. Supporting mods - Suspension needs to be up to the task of putting this power down. If you are still running factory 10 year old suspension, you'd be looking at $1.5k - $2k to go for a Sydneykid setup including fitting. - You may also require a new clutch - $800+ including fitting. (depends on type, $800 would be for basic button type clutch, twin plate etc will obviously cost much more) I am managing without a Z32 AFM, but you'll need one if you're pushing past 250rwkw. That's another $300 or so. Re-tune on power FC ~ $200 Then factory in another 25% for other unexpected breakages or expenses. Then consider the risk that you will blow your engine and require a rebuild.

Sounds dodgy to me. If someone is serious about buying I'd expect they would call and ask about the car. I wouldn't lose any sleep over a potential lost sale on this one.

I did this just a few days ago. I used a hot glue gun which worked well, but I was slightly concerned that the engine bay heat could melt the glue. I also used some 15 minute Araldite to seal the deal. Liquid nails would work well also. Either way, just using hot glue would probably be sufficient but I like to over engineer things.

Looking for a passenger side R33 door in white (QM1). Must be in good condition, no rust and good paintwork. Glass not required, but happy to take it with or without the interior trim panel.

Unless you are planning on upgrading the factory turbo, I would recommend against a front mount. I made the mistake before, it's not necessary on the stock turbo and you will notice a definate loss in response from the factory setup. As suggested, an r34 side mount is the way to go.

Up again for the weekend.

I'd suspect the problem is also related to an overly restrictive air filter. It would take a LOT of boost to suck that pipe closed with no restriction on the intake.

Nice! Where did you get it done, and did the $40 include removal of tyre, sandblasting and prep?

Bump for the weekend.

Nice rims, Enkei's ... had the same ones on my old car before it was pinched.

If your intake pipe is sucking closed, that suggests to me that your air filter is too restrictive. Take the air filter off and go for a quick drive, see if it's still an issue, but avoid any dirt roads!

Update - I think I know why the bastard is knocking. Was talking to a mate at work and mentioned the problem, he asked me what fuel I was using - I said Vortex. I was under the impression Vortex is all 98 octane, but as it turns out most Vortex in South Australia is actually 95 octane. Shite! BP Ultimate on the next tank which I imagine should fix all the problems.

Re-opening this one with another question. I'm getting the occassional knock which I have tried to diagnose using the Ign adjust option, however it doesn't seem to do anything. Even when I've set it to -10 degrees it makes no noticeable difference. Would I be correct to assume that this option does not work when the tune is locked? Thanks again.

Updated available items and reduced prices across the board!

Hi mate - you can sell the wheel hubs/discs/brakes to someone with an s13/s14 who wants a 5stud conversion ... probably a good $500-$800 there. Couple of hundred for the seats, etc. Space saver wheel.... um, lots of other bits you can sell. As someone else mentioned you'd get close to $3500 for the engine/gearbox alone. Incidentaly I'd be interested in the passenger door if the paint is a match for mine. I have a rust spot - have to get a quote but it might be cheaper just to replace the door.

I have airbox (with filter), snorkel and stock turbo. Don't have an stock exhaust but have a proper cat to pass regency if you need that. Happy to work out a good price if you want all of them.

Hi all, I have an AVCR but it seems to build boost rather slowly. Boost starts building in second at around 2800rpm but doesn't hit full boost until 4500 rpm. I can also hear the solenoid ticking as soon as boost starts building, is this normal? Shouldn't it ideally start opening the solenoid when it has almost reached full boost? What settings should I tweak to ensure boost comes on as early as possible and builds as quickly as possible? Cheers.

Saw a nice white series 2 with what looked like BBS rims and a GTR rear wing parked behind me in U-Park on Waymouth St.

Yes, it will make a big difference. There should also be a sound absorbing mat that clips onto the chassis behind the seat, if you've removed that also it will make a difference. I recently pulled my seat off and the sound absorbing mat had slipped down. Just clipping it back in place made a noticeable difference.

Damn right- Synergy is a rip off and Redline is even worse. Usuallly 5k+ more expensive then private/import. Synergy had an auto r34 for 30k a few weeks back.

Pretty much! The advantage of a low mount though is that an aftermarket internally gated turbo still looks stock, especially if you have the original heatshielding over it.

Not an expert but I believe any aftermarket turbo is a defect. So hi-mounting itself may not be, but since you'll almost certainly have an aftermarket turbo attached to the hi-mount you'll get a defect regardless.