letemlaf

thanks for all your suggestions i will look into them I will have a look over the next few days at trying to fix the problem myself. I am a little worried that a knock at that level might kill my engine if i get it wrong so ill read through and take it easy Im also looking at buying a bosch 044 pump, would it be worth installing the pump before i go ahead and try to fix any problems?

i recently had a pfc installed and tuned by hyperdrive on a 33 gtst. All seems to be well but i have noticed that occasionally the knock seems to jump to excessivley high readings. It would generally jump to a maximum of about 70 and my mechanic told me it is probably because i need to install an aftermarket fuel pump. The issue im still concerned about is that the other night i gave it a bit of full throttle action in 3rd gear on the freeway and had a knock of 122 (running 13psi) the values are as fallows: speed: 107 ign: 43 (maximum value on pfc so i dont know if its the value at time of knock) airflow: 4690 rpm: 4844 inj: 68.7% knock: 122 temp: 81 From using the search button ive found it could either be a faulty knock sensor or poor tuning, or is this still in relation to needing to upgrade the fuel pump, even though the inj duty is 68.7%? any help is appreciated coz i like my engine in one piece!

I had nasty squeels even at low speeds and light braking. Roughing up the pads works well (so there is no smooth flat spots where the dust gets caught) I got a hack saw out and put light score marks diagonally along the pad. haven't had the problem since. well... wont have the problem until the pads wear down so theres no score marks at least

Hey man, Put me down for 1x ECR33 series 1 RB25det. Thanks buddy!

Ahh, is the yellow BMW driver john potts? So he died of a heart attack mid race?

i have just had a fmic installed and the thermal fan had to be removed to fit the cooler. it doesnt seem to make any difference to the engine temp so far but im wondering when summer hits hard again will i be in some trouble? im guessing its more so for idling at traffic lights etc for extended periods. If need be i can trim the fan itself im sure and remount it, otherwise are there smaller fans available and what sorta money are we talking?

I am wondering if the hole that gets cut to allow the return pipe from the fmic would cause trouble, firstly if the cops can sticker you for it, but probably more importantly if you go to the pits and they say they wont pass the car. im in WA btw, but i am wondering what your opinions are.

would you be willing to send them to perth?

hey guys, ive read alot about the tube and fin and bar and plate coolers but i am really trying to find out which is the better unit to go for when running at about 300rwhp on a r33. from what ive seen so far the tube and fin is lighter and dissipates heat quicker, but i haven`t met anyone who has one installed on their car as yet. also i have been recommended the delta fin by apexi but i have no idea what the difference is. can i have some of your views on what you would go for and why. thanks!!

i just noticed that the spring is about 6 times as long as the hks sequential, could this mean that the spring is for high boost applications, and seeings im only running 10psi it is way too strong for the application?

yeah i guess just use the standard valve just out of interest... what model blitz valve is this?

I wanted to change the sound and i like the blitz, no other reason, i can always change back if nessesary. Any ideas how to fix this one?

I have recently got my hands on a blitz bov from a subaru legacy. obviously it didnt fit so i made a 'go between' flange out of mild steel to make it bolt on where the standard bov used to fit. It was quiet dirty when i first got it so i cleaned out all the gunk and lubricated it again but when i installed it onto the car it makes a flutter at any rpm and any boost. im guessing the valve isnt working correctly and wondering if theres anything i can do to make it work as it should? thanks! btw ive attached a pic of the bov, what type of blitz valve is this?

by the way it is a r33 gtst, dont know if it makes a difference but i just noticed my profile says my car is a 25de

hey guys, i read through the post by baron25 and the related links hoping to find an answer to a similar problem i am having. when i am in neutral sitting at the lights i can hear a very faint rattling or maybe even a type of rubbing sound coming from the engine. i had the timing belt changed because it was about due but the problem is still there. I dont think it is anything serious but i was wondering if anyone has had a similar problem?

what would be the visible symptoms if the oil pressure was too low? would there be loss of power or maybe some oil leaks? Also if it was low, (1bar) would it all of a sudden come back up to 3 bar, or is that not possible?

mine started doing it last night. i guess with everyone else thats having this trouble mine will be ok. Any idea how much a new sender unit will cost and if its easy to install? next time i go to my car ill check for any abnormalities, ruptured hoses or anything.

i think your right, in the end it took a little less than what i had (lucky because i couldnt squeeze the last bit out the bottle)

btw, i have a series 1 33 gtst manual

im changing my oil now, all is going well (apart from needing a pulley system to break the locking sealer). is 3.7L enough? that is all that came in the bottle, im sure it is but i would rather make sure than be sorry later

thanks Ant, could that cause the car not to start?

yeah its time to say goodbye i think. I would like to fix the problem first so the new owner doesnt have the same problem. If i can figure out why it has high voltage i will be able to fix the problem. thanks guys!

has anyone heard of a hall effect switch? If so, i have a problem with my daily driven car, a holden calibra. It will start fine, then for no reason the next time i go to start it just kicks over but nothing. Seems like im not getting a spark when it decides not to start. I got into the ecu which says the hall effect switch is getting high voltage

thought they all came with ceramic compressor, steel exhaust (gets very hot on the exhaust side)

Anything that is different from standard they can and will sticker you for, right or not (or the cop that stickered me wasnt wanting to play). Either way get permits just to be safe so u can stick it to the cops like i do now, they tend to not bother checking my car when they see the permits (so far anyway, touch wood) I passed my bov by running the standard valve with the hks blocked off so it sounds quiet and permitted it:D