VSPECII33R

Bumpity

Price? What tyres do they have on them??

Chasing a set of 18" or 19" varrstoen/Rota wheels. Must be minimum 9.5" wide & minimum +22 offset, the wider & more aggressive the better. With or without tyres, whatever... Have cash ready. Let me know what you got! 0424 165 230

Still available?

Price?

Great, that's certainly an acheivable task for the weekend! Where's the best place to buy 30mm hose for the breather lines to oil/air seperator?

Not spewing out, was just noticeable out the filter on catch can when doing 'high boost' runs so we backed it off. Unsure on restrictor size as i didn't build the engine & have not had a look inside. Oil pump is N1 which i am thinking strongly about swapping out for something decent after doing a little research on this forum. Will just sort out breathing lines as suggested & fit a new catch can. Should i be plumbing back in to the intake pipe for a vacuum source, or just vent to atmosphere as it is currently for best result??

Cheers mate, solid info. Engine was breathing a bit on the dyno last time we ran it up with anything over 24psi, so i am looking for a solution to overcome this as i want to put more boost through it. My catch can at the time was just vented to atmosphere & had 1 of the breather holes on the passenger side rocker cover blocked off, but it was connected to the drivers side rocker cover breather by a 'U' piece of rubber hose, then went through a single piece of hose to the can. If i were to run dual hoses (1 from each rocker cover breather) into a catch can, then plumb it into the intake pipe, do you think this would help rid the head of excess pressure/fluid if there is any?

Fitting being welded onto sump is the least of my worries, i am more concerned about being able to gain access to rear of head & knocking out welsh plug. Doesn't seem i can do this unless engine is pulled, so that's what will happen

Engine is already built, it's just that whoever built it didn't have the forsight to install a drain. I'm not interested in stripping down & refreshing/replacing anything further as it's not required. Simply put, just after the easiest & most efficient way to install the drain. Seems as though it's an engine out job, drop sump & leave head attached. Maybe throw some new shells in whilst sump is off, pending condition as that is very straight forward??

Guys, wanting to install a Spool (or similar) head drain to my 33 GTR as i want to start increasing boost levels above & beyond 25psi. My question is, what is the easiest way to do this, short of dropping it to a workshop & saying 'Fit this please"?? Does the engine need to come out of the bay to gain access? Does the head need to be removed from block? Does the head need any type of drilling/machining/welding for provision to attach the drain fitting(s)? Does the sump need to be seperated from the block? Does the sump need any type of drilling/machining/welding for provision to attach the drain fitting(s)? If it's just a case of removing engine (or box to gain access to rear of engine), then playing around with existing fittings, i will attempt on the driveway. If not, i will look at other options including dropping it at a workshop! Lol Cheers in advance

Send me a pic of what you're after. I have a gearbox sitting in my garage with busted gearset, so probably has what you're after on it...

Keen on front bar, indicators & bezels if you part

10.5, 11 or 14mm?

$200 + post for the pumps? Will transfer cash asap if so, pm if interested.

Cheers mate, will look into where i can hire one locally.

Insane!

Just shy of 600awhp on Rochester 1000's, RB26, T88 34D @ 21psi, 95% duty cycle using Sucrogen E85.

^^THIS!

Everything is there to run 30psi already. Only thing missing from when i purchased the car was decent injectors, which i have since replaced with ID2000's & i have also put new fuel pumps in as added insurance (3 x 044's). If the engine is already built with decent components, i am happy to leave it in there & push it harder. It has held up fine for the past 12 months at 22psi on E85, just not sure if it will like 30psi if it is infact a standard N1 spec engine. Am i able to pulle the head & sump off easily enough whilst the engine is still in the car, or no? Will a boroscope be able to get into the correct place(s) to identify what pistons & rods are in there, or no?? Can i lift out the engine & box together through the bay, or will i have to seperate them & remove the box from underneath the car using a hoist??? Cheers!

Guys, I am wanting to see what is inside my block as i am currently setting the car up to make the most of the turbo setup i currently have. I am after the best way to do so that will take the least amount of time &/or moneys... I bought the car from a member on here, believe his username is/was Morgs (it is on a few other forums i/he frequents). Car in question is a silver 33r with T88 kit on it, NSW rego plate was [sXI 33R] for anyone that recognises the car. If it is a standard N1 spec engine i will just rip it out & stick a 26/30 in the hole, but wont bother if the current engine has decent rods & pistons already as it should awaken it loads once it cops 30psi on E85! So... boroscope, head off whilst rest of engine left in bay, sump off whilst rest of engine still in bay, engine out completely (minus box), engine & box out as 1?? I know how much of a pain it is to drop a GTR box, so want to avoid doing this if possible! Haha Cheers fellas!

11mm or 14mm?

A set as in 4, or a pair?

How much minus turbo/mani/gate setup & injectors/fuel rail?

Just got it apart & 2nd gear is shagged. Taking offers as the rest of the gears are fine as is the transfer case, bellhousing, shafts etc etc Will accept anything reasonable. Need it gone