gslrallysport

Discs thicknesses are 28mm for the 335mm sizes, and 32mm for the 365mm and 378mm sizes. Kits will suit all R32-R34 5 stud Skylines, GT-T, GTS etc.

That shouldn't happen anymore! We've now got some staff that will never venture to a rally, so should always be someone here manning the fort. Also we about to open an Adelaide branch, which will handle inquiries also and be completely separate to the rally team, so again, distancing our motorsport activities from our parts store! Still, its good to know we actually run on alot of what we promote!

As you've proven, the cheaper rotors are machined to a lesser tolerance, so are more likely to be the cause of noise!

The other cause of noise can be the pad grabbing on the rotor slot where the machining tollerances aren't very high (ala RDA which uses a diamond grind versus DBA's CNC). If you're running RDA (or any of the cheap Chinese trade servicing rotors that get made into slotted) try cutting a small shamfer on the leading edge of the pad (ie. the side of the pad that contacts the rotor slot first).

Don't be so quick to throw the baby out with the bathwater... Thousands of people (literally) run the HPX with no issues, unfortunately opposed piston calipers are ALOT more succeptable to noise, and so are alot more sensitive to small things like incorect fitting (ie not lubbing the caliper pins) or incorrect bedding in (ie. getting them too hot during bed in, very common post asbestos being banned). I would recommend this: - Take the pads out, give them a rub on some smooth concrete to freshen them up. - Switch the pads left to right caliper, so the rotor is turning the other direction on them. - Follow QFM's bed in procedure: http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDING-IN-PROCEDURE.pdf I've got the HPX on my Subaru, which uses the EXACT same sumitomo caliper Skylines are fitted with and they're dead quiet. Alternatively PMu make a shim kit but they're faily expensive, or else we can send you the universal stick on shim kits for nothing to try. They generally work pretty well. Any questions at all feel free to give us a call, 1300 884 836.

Depends what you're after, RDA's are just a very basic cheap Chinese made trade servicing rotor. DBA 4000 Series are made in Australia, and are a much higher carbon content rotors, so not only perform better, but also last alot longer. DBA 4000 Series to suit GTT are $198 each for the front, and $148.50 each for the rear. Shipping to Melb $15. Did you need pads, lines or fluid at all?

Thanks guys, and yep we can do both QFM and Remsa (and 12 other brands of pads), and carry heaps in stock ot sit GTT. Your problem in dealding direct with QFM is that they're a manufacturer, not a distributor, so they don't have the real world experience of knowing what's what. They know part number and how to make them, and limited vehicle specific knowledge. For this reason most of their performance pad inquiries just get forwarded straight to us to answer.

They are fine for the street, in that if you're after a pad that's capable of track work, but can still be driven to work on, they are perfect for that. If you're not using the car for track, or some seriously spirited street driving, then there's absolutely no need for them, and I apologise if I lead you in any other direction. But my point stands, you can fairly compare a track pad to 2 mediocre street pads (at best) and complain that the former wasn't suitable becaues you've covered two completely different segments of the market. Even so, very few people relative the number of people running the A1RM have any sort of nosie problem, and the majority of issues are with opposed pistons calipers, which are notorious for noise regardless of compound.

Give you $40 for the set. If you installed the A1RM on rotors that had previously had another material on them (ie. not replaced or machined) then I'm not surprised they were noisy. If you weren't after a performance pad (ala, Repco brand and Bendix Heavy duty) then why did you run the A1RM in the first place? They're a club motorsport pad, not a daily driver pad. If you wanted quiet and high end street, then I would go something like Remsa or HPX. Saying "I ran 'x' track pad and replaced them 'y' and 'z' street pad and they were quieter" is hardly comparing apples with apples, let alone make any sense...

Yep, I'd just go HPX. Bendix Ultimate equivalent, but low dust and rotor wear. $79 for the set.

Not A1RM. We do about 15 different brands of pads, and if it's just street work don't go the A1RM. Either Remsa, or QFM HPX if you're after a performance street pad.

On Skyline rotors, where the internal veins aren't directional (in your case Kangaroo paw) makes absolutely no difference which way the rotors go on. Very few cars where it makes a difference... Big brake Supra, M3, 330mm Touareg/Cayenne and some Porsches are the obvious ones that come to mind.

I appreciate that your options are limited, but the world is a very small place these days. If the rotors had more than about 50kms of driving on the Bendix pads when you put the RDA pads in, then that's very likely you problem. Pads don't interact with the rotor directly, they interact with a layer of their own material that's been transferred to the rotor (this is why bed in in so important). When you put a pad on a rotor that's previously had another material on it, interact issues are quite frequent. Most notably the pad 'skips' across the face of the rotor, causing the type of noise you're experiencing.

I like this part, "Image if for general illustration purposes only, and may not picture the exact parts of this listing." No shit, that's a picture of Renault Clio REAR rotors and pads! You've missed the point, what you paid for them is irrelevant. Both Bendix and those RDB pads are VERY basic cheap trade servicing pads, designed to make workshops as much money as possible. To put it in perspective, those RDB pads we sell for $35, and still make very good % on them! Imagine what they cost to make by the time the manufacturer and importer before us make money on them... We do both Bendix and RDA, and of the 12-14 (I loose count) brands of pads we do, they'd both be in the bottom half in terms of quality and bang for your buck. To try and be more helpful, I'd say most of your current problem is because you've put the RDB pads straight on the pad material on the rotor left over from the Bendix. You didn't machine or replace the rotor when you changed pads did you? (Didn't read it anywhere, but you may have just not mentioned it). Feel free to give us a bell on 1300 884 836 if you'd like to discuss it over the phone (probably easier). Regards, Greg

Yep, we can have any pad made up in any compound. A week though... NO CHANCE! When getting pads made through QFM, allow 4-5 to be safe. But most of the time we've got the pads on the shelf already ready to go. QFM themselves hold very little performance pads in stock, most of them are stocked in our warehouse.

Now buy a decent pad, and don't buy cheap trade servicing rubbish. RDA pads are made in China, and to a very low price point. Short of that, there are several stick on shim kits available to suit those calipers that will make a huge difference (like the Project Mu ones, $65 for the set), but I'd start with a half decent pad first like HPX or Remsa. If noise if your primary concern, I'd go the Remsa, which are a high performance European pad (rated to 650 degrees, or 100 degrees higher than Bendix Ultimate) but have a lot noise reducing features like soft shims, relief grooves, and side shamfers. To suit those 4 pots are $89 for the set.

Interesting... I reckon your car has had a caliper change since factory. You're right, that genuine number definitely crosses to DB1835, but they've never come on a R33... Even so, there's still a stack of options in terms of both performance and race pads in DB1835 if you step outside the Bendix stable.

That's where you've gone wrong... We've got 3 pads listed for non turbo R33 depending on chassis code and engine size. Um... is that a serious question? There's heaps of options available to suit... Although I'm not sure you're right with saying DB1835 either. The irony being neither are correct. We take RDA's catalog with a gain of salt as it's horribly unreliable, and really only use it as a reality check after we've found what we think the correct answer is.

Correct. The 350Z Brembo pads are slightly thicker than the other-wise-identical Skyline Brembo pads. I don't know how well they fit vice versa, but the vast majority of suppliers just make the thinner pad to suit both. Only Project Mu and EBC that I know off make the two different thicknesses. Or the equivalent QFM A1RM is cheaper again at $149.

The B Spec's are good, we supply a bit of them to VE HSV with the AP's where not a lot of other pads are available. Personally I can't justify the expense of Project Mu's street pads to customers... Their competition stuff is VERY well priced (ie. the H16-03, V8 Supercar Control, which is about half of what it's competitors are) but anything below HC+ in our opinion is just hideously overpriced. Must be a Jap street pad thing, as Acre (which we also do) are exactly the same.

^ This man knows. If you're not doing track work, then don't get the A1RM. If you are, then unfortunately noise is just part and parcel of pads that are capable of that level of performance. I wouldn't say they're a noisy pad, because in 99% of cars they're not, but with opposed pistons calipers (like the Sumitomo and Brembo found on Skylines), noise is occasionally an issue. Of the 15 or so brands of pads that we do (including EBC and Bendix), our pick for high performance street use would be QFM HPX if dust is of concern, or Remsa if you don't mind trading off a little dust for extra performance. Remsa is what we typically supply to high end Euro sports cars like Porsche/Ferrari/Lambo etc. EBC's are HIDEOUSLY overpriced, and not that crash hot. They work ok in Europe where their rotors are softer and the ambient temperatures are lower, but over here there's much better pads on the market.

Yep, it was mainly down to the old slot design. Same reason the 5000 series in the old design never had that extra little slot on the outside that the 4000 did. I'm in now way knocking RDA (well sell thousands of their rotors every year with never a problem) but when used with an aggressive race or street pad, the DBA will easily pull back the 40% price difference in terms of rotor life.

Hi mate, DBA definitely do your rotors in 4000 series slotted, and for track work would be the ideal option. Made in Australia, high carbon content (for better performance and longer life) and thermal marking paint to monitor track temps. To suit your car are $198 each for the front, and $148.50 each for the rear. They fit, but they're not the same thing. The GTR rotors are 2mm thicker than the GTS-T. Doesn't sound like much but thermal mass when you're chasing performance is significant. They're cheaper, but when being used hard won't last as long as the 4000 series, so some of that cost saving is offset by that. RDA slotted to suit are $349 for the front pair, and $185 for the rear pair. Going up from that would be something from Project Mu, but the pricing gets fairly serious also. Any questions at all just let us know! Regards, Greg

Not quite... With regards to the rear brakes, probably the biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear because they beleive it does less work. Yes it's true that the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overal vehicle braking, but it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the actual 'brakes' themselves can often work nearly as hard as the front ones do. What can happen if you neglect the rear is that end starts to fade out slowly without you noticing, and it puts more pressure on the fronts, which causes them to fade, and people blame the front for a problem caused by the rear.

Depends what pads you're running. Very basic street pads do benefit SLIGHTLY from the cooler pad face created by the slots, but any sort of half decent semi track or competition pad it will make very little difference. Look at the really high end rotors (ala Alcon/AP etc.) and their slots are much much smaller than what comes on DBA/RDA etc.