gslrallysport

Yep, CBC N2600T HP is the high performance racing belt kit, including tensioner, seals etc. $305 in Stock. Greg

That was my next question! The rear rack ends are available aftermarket and are less than $50 for pair...

China...

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The best stuff that we've used in both the rally car and road car is the Lucas RBF600. I went away with the Motul because, its not compatible with other grades of brake fluid, so if you use the Motul, you have to keep using it. This might be ok in a road car, but at a rally, when service park is miles from your nearest autobahn, it was a problem if you expectingly had to play with the brakes, and didn't have spare fluid. The performance is easily as good as either the Motul or Castrol, and so we've stopped stocking the Motul, and now only keep the Lucas. $55 for a 1L bottle puts it pretty much on part with the Motul for price too. Its also fine just for a street car, so we now sell very little Dot 4 or 5.1 now... Its brakes, its a fraction of what a car or brake upgrade costs, so we've talked most people into using it, and all have been appreciative... Had a little bit of a discussion on it here: http://www.astinagt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8264 Cheers, Greg

Squealing 99% of the time has nothing to do with the friction material... its almost all the time caused by harmonics between the backing plate and the caliper itself. Old trick, get some permatex and put a light coating on your backing plates... problem fixed!

Could be DB1220: http://www.atap.com.au/atap/ATAPWEBData/Pa...7%20(Small).jpg or may also be DB1144... http://www.atap.com.au/atap/ATAPWEBData/Pa...2%20(Small).jpg What particularly were you after?

99% of squeal is cause by vibration between the backing plate and the calliper itself... nothing to do with the friction material or rotor face. Old trick, get some permatex and spread a small amount over your backing plate!

Yep, totally agree! I personally, until i can afford a rally car with alot more power than what I've currently got, will stick to Lucas! I run it in both my street and rally cars, and for the money, is just unbeleivable! That said my priorities are probably slightly different to other, so for those worries about dust and/or rotor wear I cannot reccomend QFM pads highly enough!!! The QFM HP-X is in the performance range of Ultimate (circa 550 degrees), yet are virutally dust free, and VERY kind on rotors... But for the fact that I like the extra 100 degrees out of Lucas, and don't care about dust, I would be running these pads! These are what I'm selling to Ford dealers to replace the OEM performance pads in the 355mm brake upgrade package, and the comments from customers are nothing but positive! They don't dust, they don't squeal, and they pull up very well! $85 for a set! Above that QFM make a semi race pad that's good for 780 degrees, or a little bit better than EBC red stuff. Obviously its not 100% when cold, and has higher rotor wear than they're street pads, and these are around the $110 per set, although i've seen them advertised on ebay for $140 plus postage, still a bargain when you consider most Ultimate's are around that price!!! Anyways, I think people will get the idea to stay away from Bendix! [edit] oh, and for those that might think i don't like bendix cause i can't get them/sell them/be competitive on them, i can, the same big 3 wholesalers that do dba, also do bendix, so its basically the same story as i said with dba before... i'm quite competitive on pricing, and would make more money on bendix, but just choose not to cause of the problems i've had with them...

Also remember too, that a BIG PART of what you perceive is brake dust, is actually 'rotor' dust, and nothing to do with the pads at all... Its to do with how the pad interacts with the rotor itself... One set of pads can be very dusty on one set of rotors, but nothing at all on another set... Firstly, where's the connection between, 'cheap' and 'soft pads'??? Secondly, being a supplier to the trade, and not just a hearsay eBay shopper, I can tell you that on a weekly basis Falcon's with the factory 355mm brake upgrade are having their rotors replaced for RDA's because the standard OEM items are worn out after less than 20,000k's... Like I said before, RDA price advantage has 100% to do with how they're distributed, and nothing to do with their quality. DBA for too long now have relied on their previous market advantage to continue to survive, and slowly people are realising this. To buy DBA you have to add a middle man mark up, and 3 extra carriers of freight... sorry that costs money, and that's why DBA's are more expensive... when you buy RDA's you're buying off the person who bought off RDA, when you buy DBA you're buying off a person who bought off a large wholesaler who bought off DBA. Say for comparison's sake, a set of slotted rotors cost $100 to make (ok, I know that's lots more than actual, but just bear with me). The following percentages are just for the purpose of the exercise, and not real figures... RDA $100 -> RDA throw their 30% on $130 -> RDA deliver for nothing, and retailer throws their 30% on -> $169 DBA $100 -> DBA throw their 30% on $130 -> DBA Freight to wholesaler $137 -> Wholesaler throws their 30% on $178 -> Wholesaler freights to retailer $185 -> Retailer throws their 30% on -> $240 $71 difference for the exact same rotors... End of story. And the reality is that's about the price difference if you actually price the same rotors... I'll happily sell either, and it doesn't particularly worry me, as I can buy DBA off any one of the 3 largest DBA wholesalers, so on a whole, I'm fairly price competitive on them, and despite the fact that I make more money on DBA, I still prefer to sell RDA as I have less problems with them.

Give the man a medal!!! As for RDA, the number one reason why RDA are cheaper is DBA, is that they deal directly with parts outlets, and don't distribute through wholesalers like DBA ONLY do!!! When I (like anybody else) buy DBA I have to purchase through a large wholesaler like ATAP, National Parts, or BPA. When I order RDA, I deal directly with them, and they deliver it... Cuts out the middle man, and THREE lots of freight... In just standard replacements (ie. not two piece) RDA is on par with DBA for quality, UNTIL you get over about 310-320 in rotor diameter then RDA is streaks ahead. As a distributor of both, I have far less problems with RDA, and both the local Ford Dealerships who service falcons with the 355mm brake upgrade simply refuse to use the DBA rotors that come on them standard, and are now choosing RDA. The DBA warp way to easy, even on family driven cars, and are wearing out after less than 20,000k's. The RDA have subsequently fixed both of these problems. Torque Ford in Brendale QLD if you'd really like to ring them and ask what the parts department think of DBA! To say DBA is a better choice is just being ignorant of the fact that every company has their glitches, and EVERY rotors can warp under the right conditions, regardless of brand. Also alot of problems that people associate with 'warped' rotors (like vibrating, pulsating etc.) has nothing to do warping, but DVT, disc variation thickness, which is 99% driving habits, very rarely anything to do with the rotors itself. And if you're having problems with pads, try QFM!

TRW Lucas by a long shot!

GSL RallySport, which particular one were you interested in?

Sorry, at no point was that meant to be the 'be all and end all of brake pad guide'. My point was that for the money I don't believe that Ultimate are good value for money... The overall feeling from people is that despite the performance of Ultimates (which I'm not questioning) they do tend to be more dusty and noisy, as well as eat rotors more so than your average street pad. My point was for similiar performance in QFM-HPX you've got a pad which performs just as well, for alot less money and better daily driveablity... Sorry I said anything. If Ultimates are your thing, and paying over $100 for a set of pads has become the norm for you, then good. My only argument (and you obviously wouldn't have run TRW if you didn't believe in their performance), is that for the money, there's better pads out there. I specialise in talking people into the cheapest set of pads that will 100% fulfill their requirements, not the most expensive... Are you saying that for a student who wants to compete in club level racing , with absolutely no money to waste wot so ever, that the Ultimates are a better choice than say the Lucas at over double the cost??? Greg

Bendix Ultimates??? In order of performance with rough prices, based on DB1170: - Bendix Ultimates, 550 degrees $120 - QFM HP-X, 550 degrees $79 - TRW Lucas, 650 degrees $55 - QFM A1RM, 780 degrees $110 Ultimates would be VERY low on my preferred list of street/track pads! Any of the above won't squeal or eat rotors anywhere near as fast as the Ultimates... I'm still bemused as to why everyone likes Bendix? They obviously do the best marketing!

Sorry to throw a spanner in the works, but those prices aren't overly fantastic for a group buy? Especially not if it doesn't include postage...

Who said anything about cheap 5.1??? Talking about RBF600s here... You're at a race meet, you've unexpectively had to bleed brakes/replace lines/change pads and you haven't got a bottle of your [insert favourite non-compatible race fluid here], then at least you can top up with normal dot 4,5.1 and continue on without any side affects...

Another thumbs up for the QFM A1RM!!! These pads for the money are fantastic! Good for 780 degrees, and as was said, unlike most race pads, are very kind to rotors and low on dust! QFM also make pads above the A1RM (its not their top pad, but just the start of their race range), and they're still only around the $200 mark, for something that in other brands would set you back well over $500... But at $110 delivered for the A1RM's unless you've got big bucks and big HP you can't go wrong! Also too another option on racing brake fluid is the Lucas RBF600, which unlike the Motul and others is backwards compatible with the lowe grades of Dot. Meaning if you get stuck having to fill up with normal fluid it isn't a problem, whereas with the Motul you either have to keep using it, or flush it out... Lucas RBF600 Fluid

www.gslrallysport.com

Really? You wouldn't have any happy snaps of them would you?

Dayco do them: 94988 - Just the timing blet itself. KTBA173 - Is the complete kit, with idler, seal and tensioner. As was said, they're exactly the same across that family of engine, from RB20DET, right thorugh to RB26DETT. If you're chasing prices let me know...

The difference between an ADR approved braided line and not is a little rubber sleeve that goes inbetween the hose and the connector when its crushed. It'll have a compliance number on it... That's the only difference, line and fittings are exactly the same! Any of your local ABS service centres can make ADR approved lines!

What's the attraction to Ultimate's anyway??? They eat rotors, they're noisy, they're damn expensive, and they don't perform anywhere near as good as far cheaper Lucas... Just because Bendix have the name when it comes to supplying OEM products, doesn't mean they know how to produce a performance pad!

I tend to agree. Brake gently for the first couple of days, just so that the pad beds to the shape of the disc, and doesn't create hot spots on the pad. Obviously machining the discs also helps to prevent this. After that give it all you want! The first time you heat them up substantially you'll bed them anyway... Bedding has never really been a problem for me, as I run Lucas in both my road and rally cars, but provided you don't go out and do handbrakies first spin out in a car with an integrated handbrake, then your rears will very rarely ever give you grief!

Noltec Suspensions make all that kinda stuff, checkout their website... www.noltecsuspension.com These items would be a good start: N82089, N52555. If you're chasing pricing let me know!