tripsteady

its the coilpacks going for splitfires plus gapping to 0.8 , will let you guys know how it goes.

never been installed, just opened(everything still in plastic packaging) yes it is auz/nz stabndard,i planned to use it on the supra but sold it before i could.

PRICE DROP TO $100 come one guys , full turbo back exhaust including front pipe with cannon for $100.....thats good value need this gone , taking up space

Viper 5901 Responder LC3 SuperCode SST 2-Way Security and Remote Start System Responder LC3 – the 3rd generation of Responder, complete with SST One Mile Range, the new Priority icons and text seen on a 20% larger liquid-crystal display, an onboard lithium-ion rechargeable battery with mini-USB recharging – all in the slimmest display remote on the market. Combining the best features of Responder with all the “New Technology Platform” advances introduced with the Best of Innovations Award-winning Responder LE, Responder LC3 systems come with one 2-Way LC3 SST one mile range remote and a companion 1-way long range remote. Responder LC3 lets you command and monitor your vehicle like never before, with our Priority icons – simple and prioritized for easy use - plus clear text labels on the large LCD screen. With the Priority™ User Interface, the five buttons control 24 functions on each of two cars! And with the Priority Icon Map™, the most important icons reside in the center of the large LCD screen, 3 times larger than the less-critical icons positioned on the edges of the screen. It’s undeniably the most sophisticated one mile range LCD remote ever! In remote start mode, if Active Temp Check is selected, Responder LC3 will display Temperature (in either Fahrenheit or Celsius) instead of the time (the default display). Now you can see the actual temperature inside the vehicle, before walking through the weather to get to it! If it isn’t warm enough inside your car yet, use Runtime Reset to extend your runtime. Don’t worry about forgetting about your car – Responder LC3 reminds you 3 minutes before your time runs out, with an audible tone, a vibration, and on the screen. If anything happens to your vehicle, Responder LC3 notifies you right away if you are within range, playing the Revenger siren tones from inside your pocket. If anything has happened to your vehicle during your absence, LC3 spells out what happened when you unlock your doors: “Shock Sensor” for example. Or you can silence your car’s siren and only be alerted on your remote, with Silent Mode2 sirenless arming. Arm your alarm with the door open and Responder LC3 will alert you – audibly and with large readable text: “DOOR OPEN”. Responder LC3 gives you an unprecedented level of control. Only the important icons are displayed - unused icons disappear from the screen to keep the display clean and simple. “Ghosted” icons – outlined icons only without their typical solid body - indicate that you’ve changed something. For instance, while a solid padlock icon shows your alarm is armed and your doors are locked, an outlined padlock indicates your doors are locked in Valet Mode. The words “Valet Mode” appear to make sure you’re clear on the status of your car. Some of the many New Technology Platform features incorporated into the system include: XpressPort™ - Dock the Innovations Award-winning CANMAX400DEI databus interface into the Responder LC3 CPU, for a direct digital connection to virtually every new vehicle and databus architecture on the planet D2D Serial Data Port – Gives installers plug-and-play connection to all the other XPRESSKIT interfaces Virtual Tach – No tachometer wire connection required Flex Relays Onboard for Remote Start and Light Flash – eliminates the need for additional relays 80% of the time Control Center – combines the Status LED and Valet Switch with the 2-way Antenna, making the switch easy to locate, and eliminating drilling of any holes in the dash Priority User Interface and Features – including SmartStart™, Timer Start, Runtime Reset, TempCheck and Silent Mode2 siren-less arming modes Stay in touch with your vehicle at all times with Responder LC3! Viper - Viper 5901 Responder LC3 SuperCode SST 2-Way Security and Remote Start System MSRRP : $599 NEED THIS GONE $380 NEG Brand new with warranty stickers and all contents(just opened box to confirm contents)

lmao

Menai , Sydney

why is it that there are only australians and new zealanders taking part in this show? No africans, indians , asians , lebs or any other part of multicultural Australia. Just true blue aussies. Ive always found this weird...

sold

$140 - need this gone.only used ONCE.

bump taking up space need this gone

pics added

Hey Guys I have a AEM Wideband Gauge + Sensor that I'm looking to sell. Only used once to check air fuel ratios once and disconnected. Near new condition(done about 2km) From AEM Website : Digital Wideband Air / Fuel Gauge OVERVIEW AEM’s legendary Wideband O2 Air/Fuel UEGO Gauge unites unsurpassed accuracy, speed and control with an easy to read, digital interface. This gauge-type controller features a digital LED display and sweeping LED “needle” that changes colors as AFR changes from rich to lean. The unit’s 52mm (2-1/16”) gauge housing fits in most gauge pods and can be remotely mounted virtually anywhere. All AEM digital gauges feature a 0-5v analog output for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system, such as the AEM EMS or FIC. FAST, ACCURATE AIR/FUEL DATA AEM's world famous Wideband O2 UEGO Gauge is a must for anyone looking to maximize engine power and safety. When tuning an engine, accurate Air/Fuel Ratio data is critical. Running rich can cause a loss in power, while running too lean may result in serious engine damage. The AEM Wideband O2 UEGO Gauge features large LED numerals which enable the user to see when there's even a .1 change in ratio, providing time to shut things down before damage occurs. The Bosch 4.2LSU sensor, which gives the controller its speed and accuracy, is laboratory calibrated at the factory and never requires free air calibration when used with an AEM Controller! RRP : $260 $160 NEG

Hi Guys I have a full turbo back exhaust for an r33 skyline gts25t ( gtst rb25det) Bolts up to the stock locations, straight bolt in affair. Includes catback with cat and front pipe. Nice note but not to loud for the defect conscious. Pickup only, $180 neg.

Hi Guys So I installed a 3inch hks front pipe with a gtr cat and then 3inch straight through. Took the car for a spin , certainly seems much livelier but Ive noticed that at wide open throttle the car seems to jerk and shudder. This is only after I installed the exhaust. Only happens when at wide open throttle , is this fuel cut? Kept an eye on the boost gauge and its only going 3/4 way at max - which i believe is 9psi? Could an exhaust upgrade from stock to 3inch straight through cause this to happen? thanks in advance for any help

all good boys.have chosen ku31's all round.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=r34+gtt+fuel+economy very first result has the answer you are looking for...

oh ok , cheers , ku31's it is.

cant? not good in the wet?

thinking of going ku39's instead of ku31's for a daily driven skyline since they are rated better in both dry and wet on the kumho website... what do you guys think?

thinking may as well fork out a bit more and go ku39's as they are rated as better for wet and dry on the kumho website?

do you really think that you are the first new skyline owner browsing these forums asking the exact same questions? people don't mean to be d*ckheads but when youve been around the forums awhile youll see that these kind of questions get asked again and again 1. I hope the attached photo works, I see people say 9, 10 psi etc and 1bar or 0.5 bar, does psi make a difference in the amount of bars the car achieves? and how does psi and bars relate to the boost gauge on the stock system shown in the picture, the first of the three gauges? The needle on my car almost reaches +1 on the gauge, what does this mean? Boost gauge -- how to read The stock Skyline turbo boost gauge is calibrated to the weird measurement of millimetres of mercury. This form of measurement is used in some engineering circles. _____________________________________ 760mm HG = 1 bar = 14.6 PSI Gauge reading PSI 0 0 PSI 1/4 3.36 PSI 1/2 6.72 PSI 3/4 9.1 PSI Full (7) 13.4 PSI 2. Under the RPM meter there's a oil per kg or something gauge meter that always changes and idles at about 4 i think, its not there in the picture because of the steering wheel. it goes left and right. What is the point of this meter and how should i use it? You don't "use it" This is your oil pressure gauge. Low oil pressure is bad....as it signifies loss of pressure somewhere. Also revving your car when the pressure is high( oil is cold and therefore thicker) isn't good either. 3. Whats the difference between EN34, HR34, ER34? already answered above 4. What is the max boost i should run on a constant basis with a basically stock car except for the turbo back exhaust? stock boost..i don't see the point of boosting more...you might as well max your power out through exhaust and intake upgrades before you work the turbo harder.....work on these things first to maintain a healthy engine before you turn up the boost.Also fuel cuts becomes an issue if you raise it to much as well. Best to do mods listed above then turn boost up and tune at the same time. 5. Will it damage my car in anyway to bypass the dual stage solenoid to keep it in a constant high boost? unsure as Ive never done this....i don't see how running 7 pounds as opposed to the two stage system would damage anything as you are still running the same maximum boost. 6. I've seen people that drive hondas and smaller toyotas always rev their cars to 7 RPM and shift then, with this being a 6 cyl engine what is "too high" to rev the engine on a regular basis? taken from another source : Generally smaller engines can rev higher. Also four or five valves per cylinder and variable valve timing combined with a short piston stroke and a large bore make for high revving engines. Horsepower is based on RPM, displacement (bore and stroke) and combustion chamber pressure (compression and volumetric efficiency. It is related by this formula: PLANK P=pressure (increased by high compression pistons, super/turbocharging, low restriction in intake and exhaust). L=length of stroke. A=area of piston N=number of impulses (power strokes). Takes into account RPM and number of cylinders. K=a constant to balance the formula. So, all other things are equal, if you had a 4.6L eight cylinder engine with an RPM of 4500 and a 2.3: four cylinder with an RPM of 9000, they should have the same power. Honda is probably the biggest user of high revving engines. They use the high RPMs to get large horsepower numbers out of small engines. Manufacturers publish these horsepower numbers next to the fuel economy numbers and everyone thinks that their engines are so much better than larger engines with less power. However, when an engine is screaming at max RPM and full throttle, it is not getting the EPA mileage. Also most people don't drive their cars like that because of the noise and wear and tear on the engine. Many of these high-revving engines require premium fuel. Larger low-revving engines are heavier and use more fuel in regular driving, but tend to be more drivable (power right away instead of doing a double downshift) for everyday traffic. In short , your rb isnt a 1.8l engine , try not to rev the $hit out of it ALL the time...now and then shouldnt do any significant damage Any other advice on owning and maintaining a skyline would be awesome This has been answered to many times for me to reply. Search.

but these are comparable to a semi slick aren't they(but arent a semi slick)Kind of like the ku36...this would mean they need some kind of heat to work the best... yup ku31s it is. 2x 255's for under $400 delivered....cant really complain.

really? this seems to work for me almost all the time unless its really cold. I suggest doing all of the above first

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113261-new-to-the-skyline-scene/

ok so il replace the tyres first , see how it goes and then see if I need camber arms. thanks for the advice guys