AnFz

Cheers for the comments guys Sitting in the garage taking up space. It's for sale!: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=174615 http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,80258.0.html

Make/Model: HR31 GTS-X Year: 1988 Kilometers: RB20 silvertop conversion with approx 140,000k's on it. Car has done 160,000km's Transmission type: Full manual shift kitted VLT Auto Engine: RB20DET ECCS silvertop Colour:White Modifications: MOTOR/TRANSMISSION RB20DET ECCS Silvertop conversion Garrett GT2871r 350hp BB turbo Custom steel air intake Apexi pod GFB Bleedvalve Walbaro 500HP fuel pump Race hi-pressure fuel regulator AVO S15 FMIC 400 x 300, with custom 2.5inch piping HKS SSQV Custom T2 3" split dump pipe Adapted T2 exhaust manifold 3" zorst with Metalcat high flow cat X-Force cannon 4inch tip Shift kitted VLT Auto - with foward pattern manual valve body, upgraded kevlar bands and planetary gear sets. Brand new convertor. B&M oil cooler. EXTERIOR Tinted windows 17inch Manaray Sports rims, powder coated white S3 HR31 GTS-R boot spoiler Nisspares front spoiler S1 HR31 tail lights S1 HR31 GTS grill S3 HR31 Projector lights Genuine Adthree mudflaps SUSPENSION KYB hard shock inserts INTERIOR Alarm with black wiring, 2 point imob. Greddy Turbotimer Pivot shift meter Kenwood HU CD player Kenwood 5" splits Kenwood 6x9's Jaycar Tweeters American Pro Audio amp. Roadworthy Certificate: Yes Registered: Yes, until 2007-JUL Accident History: None Asking Price: $11,000 ono Location: Mulgrave, VIC SE Contact Details: PM or reply here. Other Comments: RB20 silvertop conversion with approx 140,000k's on it, completed approx 25,000K's ago. All belts, fluids, hoses, and pulleys were changed as well as water pump. Car has done 160,000km's. Dash reads 110,000km's - Cluster was replaced at 160,000 k's when fuel guage and temp guage stopped working. (Still have broken clutster if you want to see it). AC compressor is still on but not hooked up. Car comes with the following gear that is not yet fitted: 2x Air ducts and mesh ready for paint AC lines and hoses Always serviced every 3 months or 5,000k's with quality fluids. Fussy owner. Body very straight and clean, the interior is spotless. Car needs to go, no reasonable offer refused...just dont insult me. Current setup is making a tad under 180rwkw tuned on the rich side for safety. Car was making an easy 170rwkw with no safc and RB25 turbo. Plenty of potential with some engine management and injectors. Price: 11,000 ONO Plates included or Minus stereo, plates and RWC. 10,000 ONO Here are the pics, more to come of engine bay and interior:

Hey guys, Some of you may have met me before at events or cruises and seen my white HR31 GTS-X. I've loved that car to bits, but I guess it was time for something new. I had my eye on this GT-T for some time, and finally it's mine! It's a 2000 end of series 1. At the moment all it has is a kakimoto cat back exhaust, apexi pod filter, advan rims, and some sort of suspension that I suspect might be a factory upgrade option. (maybe someone can confirm, see pic below) Anyway, see you all on a cruise or something

Would also like to know this info, and if it's mild or stainless?

I'm confused, there's no additional information?

Ok forget all of that, I've got it all wrong! It's ENR34-029407. Somone plz plz plz look it up, I already have a deposit on this car!

Sorry, try ENR34-206437

BNR34-3676982 Thank you so much

I've double booked tomorrow night, but will try my best to get down there!

As per topic, After a RB20 AFM plug with a bit of loom. Must be in good condition.

Hehe, I remember reading some comments from the last SnS...and some members were saying that R31Nismoid should win best R31, which was not even running. Hence saying that even the best R31 doesnt even run Anyway, just toying with you's...I'll be coming down and entering regardless of what trophies there are

No R31 class....then I guess I'm not coming

I just got my hands on a turbotech, I fitted it up and tried it out yesterday.....I've got to say that my GFB atomic bleeder did a better job of holding boost between gears. With the turbotech, boost dropped down as much as 4psi between 1st to 2nd. Keep in mind that this is with an auto with a manual shift kit, so I might have a different result those with a clutch. To the turbotech's credit though, it does not spike at all, where as the GFB does slightly (1psi on ramp up). Response time between the 2, didnt notice much....perhaps the turbotech was slightly more responsive, but this was probably the placebo effect after hearing so much good stuff about it

If its from a VG30DET then it will be quite laggy. It will come on hard, but dont expect much below 4000RPM A much better match is an RB25 turbo. I ran this on my old redtop before I blew it up, and its quite responsive. Also, is the motor ECCS or NICS (I presume NICS). This will effect the driveability of it and any mods you plan to do to it.

Thanks mate. Arnt all consult plugs the same, does it it have to be from a n14/n15 pulsar? (or is this just the cheapest option?) Last time I checked, Im pretty sure it was made in 89, but cant remember the month...will have to see if I can find the original VIN of the halfcut. Anyway, I have access to an later R32 ECU if needed. Either way, def put me down im very keen.

I would love one! Problem is, I have no consult plug. (R32 RB20 silvertop into a HR31). Do you know if the consult loom just goes directly to the ECU (ie, basically 5 wires coming out of the ECU for consult) or is it much more complicated then that? Or does the consult loom plug into the ecu somewhere else (I doubt it). I figure if my ECU supports consult, but I dont have the consult loom.....there might be a way to wire one in. Thoughts?

I believe it is in fact an RB30

I think I know what I ran. But having said that, perhaps I could say that you dont have a true 255rwkw. 1/4 mile times, dyno figures...they are all things we can measure, but sure as hell sometimes they cannot be accurate 100% of the time I would say that my dyno reading is slightly low, as duty cycle on the injectors was reaching its limits as was the AFM...so I would expect peak power to be slightly higher. Also I presume you have an RB25...your dyno graph shows a lot more power down low compared to how my turbo setup responds. I'll try to get a scan of mine up to show you what I mean It pulls like a steam train in 2nd and 3rd....all power made medium to top end. At a recent drag day, I was reeling in rexies mid track that were making 13sec passes. I always ran out of track though (800m might tell an interesting story!). So that figure I believe to be more or less accurate.

I ran 15.01 @ 108mph. 60 ft was 3.0+. Very hard to get any wheel spin / momentum of the line Car was making 179rwkw (untuned) HR31 GTS-X RB20DET Silvertop conversion GT2871r @ 15psi Walbro fuel pump FMIC Pod and steel intake Adjustable fuel regulator Auto is a VLT box with a foward pattern manual valve body with strengthened kevlar bands and planetary housing and gears....courtesy of KEAS

I had my car tuned at Dr Drifts as well about a fortnight ago. Full 3" zorst, FMIC, fuel pump, GT2871r @ 16psi it made 183rwkw, no cams. This was all through a bit shift kitted VLT auto though...with a manual I would expect it to be slightly higher Mines a 400hp spec GT2871r

There wasnt any crap in the pan, in fact it was brand new in plastic as I cracked my old one...what I saw was definitely metal, and not dust or dirt that could have stuck to the pan. Just took the filter apart (what a messy excercise), and could not find any bits of metal....which is weird, why would I find some at the bottom of the sump, and none caught in the filter? RE the choice of oil...there are many reasons for and against why x oil is better then y oil....or why x oil doesnt cut it for some applications. I dont want to turn this into an oil shitfight

Havent noticed anything louder or anything out of the odinary about it... I disagree that a better oil may have saved it as I change it very regularly with a oil that Nissan have spent millions of R&D on it...I will accept though that this is a result of normal wear and tear due to age. If it is a sign of the bearings on the way out, how long can I expect before it starts to get undriveable? Could it come from anywhere else besides bearings?

Hi guys, Did an oil change earlier today, after I drained the oil out of the catch pan I found something perculiar. There was about half a tea-spoon of fine metal shavings, about the size of grains of sand right at the bottom of the pan. I'm pretty sure they were a yellowish or silver colour. I have read about similar experiences, but is this good or bad? What does it mean? Out of the oil changes I have done with this motor now (about 6) I havent seen anything like this. The oil is usually dirty, but with no extra bonuses in it. I change it every 5000k's with genuine Nissan 7.5 - 30w oil and oil filter. Internals are standard, but have been running a GT2871r @ 16psi for the last 5000k's or so. The motor in question is an RB20 silvertop from a R32 that had approx 110,000k's on it.

Whats the brand of that silver flexi piping? There is no magnet mart down here in VIC. hehe

Who's going??? MEEEEE