Howie

Generally speaking, nissan coils generally get worse when they're hot. On my previous car, when the coils were bad they would generally be okay for about 30 minutes then it would sputter and the engine light would flicker as you say. How many kms has your car done? has it ever had the coils replaced? I would definately give it a good clean, take out the carbon deposits on the tip perhaps give it a light sanding, silicone the boots and clean the leads. Come back and tell us if that helps solves your problem. Investigate the possibility of going to splitfire replacement coils... I wish I had known about them earlier, that would've saved me going through a dozen coil packs.

For outright speed, definately the STI and it doesn't look half bad either in my opinion. Give it another look. Other than that, an R34... 6 cylinder RB enough said.

NA's with bad coils experience the same problems as their turbo counterparts. My last car was a ca18de and i went through about 12 coils on it. Car feels like it's missing a cylinder and sounds like a wrx but without any pull. There's a few threads on coil maintenance and cleaning, check them out.

The blitz dual solenoid progressively builds boost as you desire... if you up the gain from something like 5 to 10 you'll see that it builds boost alot quicker, up it once again and you run the risk of overshooting your target boost... but it builds fast if you like that sorta thing.

That is tasty as... I love the V35/G35's but this is just sleeker in every way.

I'm sure anyone with a little time and patience can install the three gauges... it's not that hard, you'll probably need to shave a little off here and there to get it to fit. And if you're not confident on hooking up the gauges, just have them mounted ready to go, then get your trusted workshop to hook up all the sensors.

david this has been covered many many times now... just search for 34 gauges on the search box above. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=gauge+r34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=gauge+r34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=gauge+r34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=gauge+r34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=gauge+r34 and there's about 15 other threads about this. g'luck.

The best way to run a 10 in a GTR, is strip it of absolutely everything, and then chop the roof and boot off in an attempt to make it less than 1000kg. And that would cost you zilch

sorry to hear about your defect. with the eboost. try putting in a restrictor and unhooking the solenoid+controller for the eboost until it gets off defect. and for the tt, if the timer has a harness to it, then just unhook it from the harness. btw, what did you go in for in the first place? ride height?

oooo... nice work!

Same turbo in the Series II. Possibly different camshafts for Series II, or at least Series I's produced after 10/98 - and as mentioned in other threads different oil filters recommended.

Yep... that's right, and it's wierd isn't it. I saw a 4 door hitting the streets with four stove lamps and thought somethign was wrong with mine. Came home checked and there's no double element bulbs in the inner stoves. Sucks.

and the nismo option rear bar had skyline written on it.

Hey bud... so you're back from your hols in Asia then Hope you had a great time. No i was planning to go later in the year not now bud. Yeah .. that wasn't my ride... different plates and i wasn't down findon road.

Real sorry to hear that bud. I've also got a stock GTT exhaust you can borrow if you like.

Possibly.. but they ran Z145a prior to 11/98, then Z442 after - all on the same NEO motor. Maybe something else changes with the post 11/98 models... heard later models have GTR cams but I can't verify without opening mine up.

Tiptronic's good mate! Gets off the line bloody quick too. I was specifically after the tiptronic when hunting for a car.. i do mainly city driving. Now time to get a MV shift kit for it and burn some tread

East Bear i'm guessing

designed for finer filtration (different micron rating)... or so the guy at nissan told me.

Looks brilliant... i'd hit it!

Z145A fits, but you ought to be running the smaller Z442 (or Nissan part# NI-15208-53J00). Best thing to do, is goto Nissan, quote your VIN number and they'll look up what filter you need in their FAST catalogue software.

Top work buddy! Looks really tight.

I'd love to know how much it costs too.. looks great from their website

I just completed that mission YAY! 1hr 14mins. The trick is, get some rifle guys to DIG IN to the SOUTH and WEST straight away. Enable those the turrets to the S and W also. Then get a rifle guy to dig in NORTH, and evacuate that trench. Once evacuated fill it with rocker launcher guys. As soon as possible build a second harvester. Then start some Predator production. Hold off the vehicles to the EAST and NORTH with the rocket launchers and predators. As soon as possible build some APCs... and load some with engineers and some with rocket launchers. Once you have enough tanks and APCs rush the northern base, take out the defences, and capture their construction yard with your engineers. Now they can't produce vehicles to attack you to the North and East, so concentrate all your defences South and West. Build a harvester on the captured site. And build some NOD defences on your main base, they're good at taking out foot artillery. The rest is straighforward, take out the south eastern base, then free your convoy to the north. Get heaps of backup that can take out the buildings that the NOD guys are bunkered down on, and protect your MPC until it gets to your base. Deploy, and then build some stealth tanks to take out any NOD aircraft. Then build a tech center and get some zone troopers to take out the south eastern base. It's a crazy mission, took about five shots to get it.

that's the one.. it's insane... i mean i thought i could take out the base north of it, but even that's so heavily fortified. :S