Howie

Close i'm in the east end of the city tho.

Nice clean 33 buddy.. rays engineering rims? the kit looks nice and your paintwork looks mint too buddy.

I've uploaded a clip of a Trust PE2 + 3" catco + splitdump/front pipe in case you were still interested in hearing the PE2. Great piece of kit, power everywhere through the rev range.

Was it at TTP on thurs evening?

I've got some ramps also, but they won't clear my bumper. So i just use a trolley jack and stands.

Okay.. i've got a bit of time.. so heres my tutorial. I'll try to add photos later :

I cut it to suit buddy. Few sections i'll see if i can get a close up. West... i'll try to get a tute going on. Was going to take pictures during the application, but man i was really peed off and just forgot all about it. The first side had me going crazy trying to line it up... but the second side turned out a treat once i worked out how to best do it.

Hey guys i just stumbled onto this thread and was just about to ask the very same question. Thanks for the info guys.. it's helped me out also.

oh man those nismo lights are HORN!!

Yes sir! Can't wait to see this in the sunlight now Thx again West... leave ya feedback shortly.

reg.. got it on now. gotta clean up the detergent tomorrow and take some pics!!

Got mine today! Thanks buddy!

Fking nice work.. good luck with it mate, i'll be keeping an eye on this thread closely.

I found this off the kartattooz website : You will need the following items: * Window cleaner (i.e.: Windex) and lots of paper towels * Kartattooz squeeqee, credit card or other stiff plastic card to use as a squeegee * EITHER - a 1-qt. Spray bottle filled with water and 2 drops of dishwashing liquid OR - a bowl or pan with 1 qt. Of clean water, 2 drops of dishwashing liquid, and a CLEAN sponge or washcloth * A sewing needle, safety pin, or very small pen knife (with 1" blade) * For long slogans, I recommend a Level if you have one, to determine what is straight. * Car in area where temperature is between 55 and 90 degrees. STEP 1. Clean the surface where you are putting decals with the window cleaner and dry thoroughly. STEP 2. Position the decal onto the surface and use masking tape to create a "hinge" along the TOP of the decal. Tape the decal into position using masking tape only on the top of the decal. If you have a very long (3 feet or more) decal to install, you will probably want to use several six inches pieces of masking tape along the top, from one side to the other. Flip the decal up, and starting at the upper left corner, VERY SLOWLY peel off the backing. (The backing is either paper or it is a clear film. The FRONT of the decal is covered with a masking tape film). As you peel off the backing, make sure that no pieces of decal lift off onto the backing - all pieces should stay on the masking tape film. If a piece starts to lift, then squeegee the backing side down hard to make the decal below adhere more firmly to the masking tape. When you have finished peeling off the backing, make sure that no pieces of paper backing are stuck to the adhesive side of your decal - if so, get it off, using the pin or knife tip to grab the edge carefully. STEP 3. Either spray or use the washcloth/sponge to wet down the surface where the decal goes with the soapy water. Get it good and wet. STEP 4. Slowly fold the decals onto the wet surface, using the hinge to maintain a good straight line. Do not rub until the entire decal is down, so that you can make minor position adjustments if necessary. When the decal is lying flatly against the surface, then begin to rub, using your hand first to flatten it nicely against the surface, then start with the squeegee (credit card edge). STEP 5. Start to squeegee the decal from the middle outwards, over and over, then harder and harder. Squeegee in all directions, up , down and diagonally. Keep squeegeeing for several minutes, very firmly, getting all the water out. When done, use a paper towel to wipe up as much of the water as possible. WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES. Then VERY SLOWLY begin pulling the masking off, starting at the upper left corner, draw diagonally down, and pull SLOWLY. If the decal starts to come up, lay it down and re-squeegee, and you may need to wait longer for things to dry (cold weather and humidity are factors.) Not yet, but i'm in SA.

Maybe on a GTR but not on a GTS-T without spacers. Just ask thanglongz, who i sold my 34 GTT rims to, there wasn't enough caliper clearance.

It's a barstard isn't it. There's a white latch on the underside which you hold and pull at the same time.. if and when you get it off, silicone it straight away so it's easier next time.

Chris... a couple pictures for your article if you need.

Heya mate! Nice 34 buddy... my gf's from malaysia too.. borneo island side, but we might stay at her family places in penang and kl when we go back next. Hope to see a few nice lines there bud.

My boss did LOL. Yes he was thinking this guy wasn't quite right at the time. I've heard many stories about the man.. apparently he was the fastest typist in the whole department.

Having a uni degree certainly won't hurt your chances of landing a job, or improving your abilities as an IT professional. I say if you get the chance to take up a CIS/IT degree then go for it. Even so, having said that, some of my colleagues do not have formal IT qualifications and similarly my manager only has an environmental science degree yet he's regarded as one of australia's leading developers in e-health. My predecessor from a long while back at my current position went on to found Internode - and i believe he had just engineering qualifications and was a sys admin for our department. So i'd say most importantly If you have strong desire to learn and continually keep up to date with industry trends, you can get to where you want to be eventually.

You smear it because on an un-lapped heatsink you can end up with an uneven distribution of thermal paste. I recently repaired nozilla's laptop which had this problem, the hsf was mounted in such a way that there was blotchy paste distribution... that caused a tiny hotspot right in the core of the cpu and pretty much fried it. I've got pics to show you what i mean. It doesn't happen often, but if your hsf is not properly lapped then i wouldn't chance it.

Not all.. i use fac alpha heatsinks, and they don't pre-apply them. Also the use of pre-applied thermal pads was discouraged after what happened to many exploding socket A amd chips a few years ago.

Awesome can't wait bro...

No worries mate. Yes, too thick a layer and you're actually inhibiting the transfer of heat rather than promoting it. You can try your luck on getting it RMA'ed if it's still under warranty, but if it's scolded then your chances aren't high. Did this happen prior to the frying of the chip? 230w is enough to spin a fan that's no drama, cpu fans draw on the 5 volt line anyhow. What could be causing it, is a) a faulty fan, b) the fan output on the motherboard (hence why i asked if this happened before the possible frying of the chip). Also try to rule out other problems, it could still be as you say the power supply. 230watts probably not enough in this generation of computers. If you have a 300-350watt power supply handy give that a whirl. Also try having all devices unplugged.. maybe just leave a harddrive connected taking off all your optical drives and the like.

How much thermal paste did you put on? There should be a very very film - certainly not too much that it goes onto the underside. You could have a problem if the thermal paste is making it's way to the underside of the cpu, acting as a conductor for heat - it's probably heating the underside and without a heatsink there's no way to dissipate the heat. First thing's first... remove the cpu immediately. Remove the current thermal paste using Isopropyl alcohol from both sides and the heatsink face. Then check for scolding marks on both sides of the cpu - this could be an indication of hotspotting and will cause your cpu to act strangely (btw, this is what suppliers look for when you rma a chip, so they can tell if you've voided your warranty). If all is okay, apply some DECENT thermal paste... the white stuff you've got is probably non-silver based - get something like Arctic Silver thermal paste, and apply a very very thin layer on the cpu face with a business card. Boot her up see if she keeps stalling on you.