Howie

Same as above, i had a spare key cut at my local shopping center for about $7 dollars without the central lock bullshit. I use the aftermarket alarm to lock/unlock the doors anyhow.

Steve at Stable Suspensions (@poo-racker), top work.

Just wondering about the legality of that, it looks nice though,

No worries... go easy on the boost buddy

Conversely download and follow this manual LOL http://www.team3s.com/Blitz%20SBC%20i-D%20manual.pdf

Have a look at my thread for the Blitz DSBC, it should be similar if not the same for the SBC Icolor. Basically, on the controller side theres the : - Ground (run this to chassis) - Power (tap this to an accessory like cig lighter) - Boost/Vacuum (tap this to the inlet manifold) On the solenoid end theres : - In (run this to the hole closest to the turbo.. there's a pic in the thread i started re: the blitz dsbc) - Out (run this to the actuator) - then block off any unused pipes. For tuning : - set your limiter! Important! e.g. 10psi - set your gain to something like 10. - start increasing your duty/ratio. Go for a spin, check your peak boost. If not up to desired boost level, then increase the ratio slightly until you get the required boost level. Good luck buddy.

Firstly, I think you'll find that's for a GTR. Secondly, this should be moved to styling forum.

I'll be there with bells on

Transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, diff oil, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter. The more of this you can do on your own obviously the better. optionally have a power run and check your a/f ratios. As above get the water pump done while the belt's off.

If you're going for a 34 gtr look you'll need more than just the front bar.. you'll need the shorter bonnet, hinges, and guards too.

Thanks mate. Just to let you know though... brand new with warranty from ryda is $69.00 http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-TS-G1641R-C...-p/tsg1641r.htm

I had the above done, including a motor oil change with mobil 1, i think it was $1200 from boostworx. Definately take it to someone who knows RB motors, they found a flat spot in my car and fixed it up (turned out to be the afm).

I like your thinking cubes

Interested in parting with the 6.5" speakers ? if so ball park figure?

hahah.. Nice sig buddy... looks pretty awesome there.

What was wrong with the boost gauge? the way it was mounted?

No Stickers in the Windscreen wiper sweep (front + rear) Insecure battery clamps Insecure speakers all sorts of shit

Dude they're 34 GTX rims.

Nice 34 rims on the boat!

Yep your fuel consumption goes up Well it did for me. But in terms of performance, you do notice it right off the line. It's only for a split second or so before you get over the 3500rpm line.. but you can see it more clearly on a dyno. With mine.. on the dyno you see a distinct spike with the dual stage, and it's flatter with it disabled.

Here you go mate. Big thread on it here. HOWTO: RB25DET High Boost mode with standard solenoid

Nah abo_bob, it's dually unless you ground the negative wire on the boost solenoid.

it's dual stage.. 5psi and 7psi from memory.

I've got the following : - R34 GTT Airbox - R34 Stock Dump/Front pipe - R34 GTT Triple gauges - R34 Front Brake Rotors I'll edit this post if something else comes up.

+1 for boostworx.