Howie

Hey madaz, what i usually do is use Alcohol 120% to create images of each cd, burn them onto DVD, and mount them as needed.

Great work E_Lu-SHuN, thanks for posting this up for us.

Nice one.. got them lit up filo34?

Yes they will.

Never too young for coil pack issues. Sometimes coil packs dry out for a number of reasons, environmental, engine overheating etc. I've seen coils go at 60,000kms, that's not uncommon depending on what series coils you've got.

He must've been the same guy who was giving me shit. He walked over, and starts going you've been here before having you... bet you've got a skyline don't you... (at which point he hadn't even seen my car yet)... and well he had a big grin like he had a hardon trying to defect my car. Guy's a full tosser. Unfortunately you've got to play by their rules though, no matter how much of pricks they can be. There's a european looking guy there too, he seems alright, but probably couldn't sort out a root in a brothel - he walked over to me, told me my build plate was missing, didn't even bother to check in the normal location near the firewall... duh. I reckon it was the first guy who gave me the double defect.

If they're faulty, they'd misfire anywhere between idle and part-open throttle. If you were in Adelaide i'd lend you my splitfires to test them with.

Just fyi guys... After Nov 1998.. the part number for the oil filter from nissan is NI-15208-53J00 and it costs $13.84.

I'd go probably all bar the connector snorkel. It won't make a difference to the running of the coil. You'd only find that coils will misfire at lower boost if they're faulty. By upping the boost you're asking coils to supply you with more spark than they're capable of, but the coil itself is probably fine, it's just being asked to work outside of it's parameters. If your coil pack was really really rooted, you can see the sparks when you open the ornament cover on idle!

You could ongsta... it wouldn't hurt. Sometimes coils crack at the actual module also due to them being dried out, so it's not a bad idea to silicone that also. Before you start, get some electrical contact cleaner and spray inside where the spring and rod is. Clean up any carbon deposits on the rod end with a wire brush or very very fine sandpaper, and silicone the boot. Just out of curiousity do you have much carbon build up on your rod ends?

Not the spring and not the rod. You want to insulate the boot around it, and keep the spark inside the boot cavity. I've done heaps of CA coils, just silicone the boot (you should be able to remove this), and give the rod a bit of a clean up with some fine wire brushing.

Damn, sure is a kick in the nutz. Getting you at a KFC drive through? Now that's a new low for them.

Spotted GTR-888 the R33 Vspec purple number. Nice ride mate!

Send me your Vin number mate, i'll tell you what it should be. Edit : Also if you use the larger filter obviously you'll need close to or more than 5L of motor oil.

Just a note, after Nov 1998, R34's use a smaller filter to the standard z145a older R34's use. Both still fit though, but the smaller filter apparently has a different micron rating. I have yet to find an aftermarket manufacturer locally for the later model R34's. So you're better off getting them from Nissan, they're cheap anyway.

batmbl one's are OK, the welds aren't fantastic, and it might not line up properly to the cat (which I found on the R34). Also the little flange bit near the wastegate section could do with a little angle grinding. But for the price, can't complain.

LOL yeah tell me about it. I'd be a bit hesitant myself on my original covers, i'd probably do it if i had a second set lying around the place.

Oh right.. thanks for clearing that up mate. Reason I asked was because I was going to do the mod myself using a few jaycar led's, suppose if you're not technically minded your mate's alternative would be pretty good aswell.

Ah sweet.. they look very noice. So does your mate make these from scratch? Or does he take existing R34 covers and insert the led's into them?

they look great ... but just wondering what are the differences between these and the one's just jap are selling? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...43&hl=howie

Just to give you guys an idea of colour schemes and font style on the car.. i did a couple of renders a while back in photoshop. And a bit of a close up on #3.

This only applies if you're buying a car from interstate .. not transferring nsw/sa registration (i wouldn't have a clue about that). When i brought mine over from victoria, i need a Vehicle Identification Check (about $25 dollars) from Regency. They inspected the car, and although it's not a full inspection, i was not allowed to have a turbo-timer or boost controller installed (see my old thread from julyish). Then you take this slip to RTA, and you pay your stamp duty and then you pay registration and collect your new plates.

From my understanding, they'll be vinyl cut - that is, with no background. The black you see there is for illustration purposes only. Please correct me if i'm wrong Patrick.

A series II with minimal mods but in good nick was around $18/19k when i was looking a few months ago.

i'll go option 3... i could always cut off the sau part and use it somewhere else if need be. For sizes... 20" wide for the front windscreen, 8" wide if it's for the side window.