GTshortie

Spotted at lunch while crossing the road: Black R33 Gts25t Series 2, White AXS Seat Covers, Green P's BLOND chick driving turning onto the kingsway from kiora road.

How'd you get a number like '1.8 mmhg' from your avc-r? My Avc-r Reads in BAR. if that is what i'm guessing 1.8bar(26psi).. thats alot of boost! what turbo & mods you got?

This morning spotted: -Silver R33 GTs25t Series 2 with red seat covers turning right onto king georges rd from forest rd -Silver R33 Gts25t series 2 with plates 'MTK' three letters can't remember exactly with black/red rims heading away from sylvania on king georges rd.

Abcent: Did you get your car dynoed at the same place as before (248rwkw)? If possible could you please post up your graph with 248rwkw for comparsion? Looking at your new graph the AT:25 and IT:45 shows a big variance in temperatures. Does the car feel like its got more power? taken it to the drag strip before&after(or you don't do drags) to compare results?

Damn... was digging up old treads with the 'search' function' looking at getting camshafts down the track.. my only concern is that i'll encounter a problem like yours and LOSE 15rwkw after installation of CAMSHAFTS.. but my setup is different because engine has been rebuild with lower compression hence i'm worried i won't get the same benefits as others with the TOMEI poncams (20rwkw midrange, 10-15rwkw up top and more torque)

FMIC don't really give power. Is your POD exposed or boxed up(enclosed)? If its exposed your probably losing power right here compared to a standard airbox because of the heat from the engine bay. Power isn't everything take your car to the drag strip and see how it performs against other cars with the same or more power. Its ONLY A dyno reading, its used for tuning get your powerfc in wack in more boost and tune it and you will get the results or thereabouts.

Tridentt did you ever sort out the camshafts timing issue and gained more power?

Chaser as well twin turbo 2.5L hmmm wait a sec.. same engine as soarer.. are soarer's faster then r33's in stock form?

100% injector duty eek!!!.. hope you got the $$$ ready for a engine rebuild.

The other night at the drags there was a old VX commodore V8 GEN3(LS1) i believe like the ones the police use to drive around, it had a GT42 and a built engine it was running easy 10's, but he said he was going through alot of diff's or drives shafts i can't remember. i'll go the 2JZ over RB for the VY Ute

Get the Pulsar or a HOnda Civic Vti-r for similar money if you can afford it Don't bother wasting too much money on modding it just drive it around cheap mods and when you reach the age/full licence get your turbo car and enjoy my 2c.

All in Black from Justjap??.. damn,... i think i'm just gonna spray my blue ones black hahaha.. until i can source some more funds for new black ones.. eek.

Up you go.

I've never seen that many cars in the STAGING lanes before esp with the queue/line going half way through the car park. at least i got my 12's!! woohoo. i guess this is why we have the SAU drag day to get 40+runs!.. i can't wait. they need to bring back friday night drags

Hope you get well soon Mikey i was once a northern beach person living at allambie heights but move from there years ago. anyways regarding weapons around 4-5 years ago i tested drive with my mate a JDM spec 1997 dc2r integra type-r and he was viet when we jumped in the back seats there was this next and shiney watermelon knife(i can't spell the name of this). Hahah we didn't end up buying the car but we had 3 guys so it was cool.

LOL my R33 is white and has the plates A*Z-*4* Close but not me..

I don't know buddy, but i know the guys that supply the fuel to Budget and Prime in Sydney area, directly from mobil. cheers, Ray

Brendan, i'm always up for a challenge Plan: -Drag radials before SAU drag day -CAMSHAFTS + retune when funds permit So improvement is for SURE. BTW your car is fast for a r33gtst with just a turboback exhaust and pod its scary, i'll have my eagle eyes on you.

Adrian looks like you got a good challenger for your setup -2.5L -GT3540 -NOS!.

a) Do i need a hoist? NO b) Can i get at everything under the car? YES c) Do i need to remove pod,AFM,intake hose to turbo? YES d) What lines to the turbo need removing? (Water lines in and out on each side of turbo, Oil feed and oil drain) e) Its going to matched with a VG30 rear housing do i need to keep all the fittings? (Yes keep all fittings and get new gaskets from nissan) f) How long will it take roughly? (A LONG TIME, it took me ages because i had to keep buying tools/gaskets/bolts, BE careful when undoing tight bolts spray with WD40 first and wait then attempt so you don't snap anything, a breaker bar is also handy) g) Will any oil or water leak out of the engine once the turbo is removed? (Best to drain all the coolant out first as when you disconnect the water lines coolant goes everywhere i was swimming in it lol, same with engine oil) h) Is putting the upgraded one in just a reverse procedure or do i need to modify (add new lines)? (Depends on which highflow you get, GCG straight on SLIDE needs mods to lines) This site will be useful for you (still a Rb25det) http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/10_mani...moval/index.htm (was working when i did mine but not now ) maybe check through livesockets.com

DAmn!... Why did this have to be 1 day before the SAU Drag day was soooooo looking forward to a Skidpan day damnit!

Based on: '60ft-2.462 ET 14.8 And speed- 93.97mph' The general rule of thumb for 60ft's is for each 0.1 you reduce your 60ft by you shave off approx 0.2 off your ET. So in your case just with practice you should be able to get your 60ft down to 2.0-2.1 after some more runs and by dropping(adjusting your tyre pressure). HENCE in the current form you should be able to net a 14flat given you run an approx 2.0 60ft. I suggest: -Empty OUT your boot!, esp the sound gear + spare tyre/tools/jack -Run 30psi tyre pressure in the rear tyres and drop it through out the night and monitor your 60ft to see if you improved or not <don't go lower then 20psi at the bare minimum> THERE isn't a tyre pressure pump at WSID so you'll have to pump it back up on the way home. Do that and PRACTICE, PRACTICE PRACTICE + PRACTICE and you'll see results your asking for My mate in his twin turbo supra the first time out a few weeks ago with 214rwkw ran a 14.4 and best 14.2 with average 60ft of 2.3+, THEN we headed back on wednesday 21st DIDN'T change anything at all, first run FLUKED a 2.0X60ft and got a 13.7 the rest of the night he never saw 13's ago lol BUT he was still alot happier. my 2cents

A selected few Budget Petrol and Prime petrol stations also suppy E10 98octane petrol and its PRICED cheaper then regular unleaded too Budget Petrol and Prime get their fuels from Mobil

$400 bucks?!?. i thought the workshops usually charge $150-$200 for a fmic install, thats what i remember paying but that was years ago with a workshop. Hardest Part: -Cutting the 3" hole in the body/chassis to allow the return intercooler piping -Trimming the front bar so it looks nice (they did a sh1t job on mine, not even straight) -Making a custom bracket to keep the piping away from the fan? (does the justjap kit offer something like that already?) I reckon mate if you got the tools and time DIY otherwise save the hassles and headaches get someone to do it. my2c

Depends on alot of factors like your power/torque curve peak power point, post up your dyno graph so we can analyse it. i was shifting at 7100-7200 but i've got a rebuild engine and my power curve just keeps climbing with the boost holding up top, its different for each car. my 2c