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Well I hope it isn't the timing being too retarded as my CAS has next to no adjustment left to advance it(Almost turned as far counter-clockwise as it can). I haven't had the time to get a timing light and really play around with it yet, just having study breaks and speculating/stressing out. If the timing is too retarded and I can't advance it far enough, could this be due a mistake being made when the timing belt had been replaced?

Was just about to post something about this too. I did a quick search earlier and easiest seems to be tie rods spacers . Also was a few mentions of swapping over to an s14 steering rack. I think driftworks make knuckles too. You have a gtst I presume? I am wondering about the same but for a gts4 and would like to know how much extra lock can be added due to the 4wd system?

^ Yeah from reading 10psi seems to be a bit. I can hear the turbo spooling up so I don't think it's faulty boost gauge. Builds boost gradually until I take my foot of the accelerator. Any idea? Ill try get a video up in the next day. Still going to check the timing anyways.

So if the timing is too retarded then the air will still be in a state of combustion during the exhaust stroke and this extra pressure that usually drives the cylinder down will begin to spool the turbo? Why would an atmospheric blow off valve cause boost to build in neutral?

Yeah I probably won't get another chance to touch the car until later next week when exams are finished. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks. Did you use hose clamps for any of it? Might put some on the fpr when I change it to be safe.

Wasn't any recommended brands in there. Also wrt to the boost gauge. Is it going to give an incorrect reading where it is? Or is it just not good to have it there.?

Any recomended budget timing lights?

Thanks for the help btw.

Might try do it myself. Timing lights can be head cheap off ebay. Hopefully I can find a guide.

Is that the right place for the boost gauge? How will the timing cause this and are there any other symptoms that would show too?

That on is a bit better. Clear tube goes to the boost gauge. The car starts and idles fine. Sits at -20psi on idle. Have only driven it once a week ago when I first got it as I don't have a licence and it isn't rego'd but seem to drive fine.

If the manual boost controller is set to maximum could this cause it as the wastegate will not open at all or should there still be insufficient flow to spool the turbo up?

Also the boost gauge is on a t connection near the throttle body.

Yeah it's the stock one and is vented back in just after the podfilter and afm. How can timing affect this? Should I be worried and is there any way of telling what is causing this?

I think it has the stock bov. I thought one vented to the atmoshpere will cause problems as it mess' with the afm?

Yeah that is the noise I am refferring to. Will the stock BOV's not make any noise as they vent back in?

Well I can hear the turbo spooling and the blow off valve, I presume, when I take my foot off.

Just got a r32 and am new to turbos. Was told that it was running 12psi by a mbc. I did some reading about adjusting this and read that the car won't make any boost in neutral when revved... but it does. The aftermarket boost gauge sits in vaccum at idle but when I put my foot to the floor the boost will climb to about 10psi and it's not just a quick spike either. Can hear it spooling up. Supposedly just running the stock turbo, pod filter and 3inch exhaust with high flow cat. The mbc is tightened to maximum... Is this normal?

Had a look today and the front ball joints and tie rod ends look like they have been replaced (Compared the rubber on the front ones compared to the quality of the rubber on the rears which has deteriorated quite bad and need replacing when I do the HICAS). So Will be Eliminator and Ball joints in the rear when I get around to it. Read somewhere that the subframe cradle bushes only need done if they have ruptured as they are silicone filled? Are the diff bushes the same or are they rubber?

Yeah it's had a big life lol... I meant 120 Mm . Things sure are expensive compared to my simple little ae86. Is that for genuine nissan ball joints? What about a cheaper, non-Nissan alternative? Also are there 2 joints per corner? I was wondering about legality of camber arms and the HICAS elimator? Last time I got a RWC on a car they didn't check under the car at all. In QLD.

Title may be a bit ambiguous... Oh well I think the post will make it clear. With regards to ball joints/tie rods is it worth replacing them while it's all pulled apart or only bother if they are rooted?

New to skylines and have started setting out priority for mods and was curious as to what others would change. For me, on a HNR32, it will be: Heigh Adjustable monotube coilovers Adj camber Arms Good width/offset wheels to fill the guards + decent tyres(17x9 +30ish I think). Remove Hicas and fit eliminator(or lock bar if the tie rods are sweet and I am short on funds.) All this will probably be done around the same time before the car is registered and new engine, gearbox and diff oil and maybe replace front end tie rods if needed. Any other bushings/steering components that may need to be done assuming a car around 1200000kms? Bit lost after this, Swaybars be next in terms of suspension? Then I will be going gtr front bar, suede steering wheel, rear lip spoiler.

I am a tight ass and after getting quoted $800 to rebuild a set of Bilstein coilovers I want searching for a DIY option. Doesn't look too difficult, have to tap a schrader valve in the bottom of the shock to discharge/recharge the nitrogen pressure and require some sort of clamp to press the piston/shaft back in. DIY videos on youtube, pretty much the same process for most monotube shocks used on motorcycles and 4x4's. Parts can be found here: www.gwracing.com.au Top oil seal: $27 each (whole metal piece, including seals/plastics etc.) Bottom plug(seperate oil/nitrogen): $20 each Just had a quick look to get an idea, may need to replace the bit that goes around the valve(not sure what its called.) however I didn't look at the price. If anyone else recommends replacing anything else please let me know. Also called RAD Motorcycle shock repairs and got quoted approximately $100 per pair assuming I supply the parts. They are in Brisbane. Was going to do it myself but at that price I may aswell leave it to someone who knows what they are doing. Have not got this done yet but thought others may find this info usefull. I presume other places that do motorcycle shocks will do the same thing if you aren't located in Brisbane, have a ring around. Works out around $400 from quotes, alot cheaper than the original quote I obtained.

After more searching and watching of videos this seems pretty easy. Only question is how do the pressurise/depressurise the nitrogen as there is no valve on the bottom?