Adam_RSX

Engine parts are easy through Stewart Wilkins in Sydney Other various bits I've gotten through Jaustech for DR30 specific items, and general Nissan wreckers for common R30 parts And I had most work done by my Triumph mechanics, so they can't be too hard to work on, they'd never seen one before

Two sets of wheels for sale, both are the real deal. They may only be 15's but on the cars that they fit, anything more is unnecessary, and 15's have great benefits in terms of unsprung weight when compared to larger rims. They also look far far far better than anything available new in a 4x114.3 pcd bar maybe a new set of Minilites which are far more expensive 1 set of 4 Watanabe RS8's, multipiece, 4x114.3 pcd, 15x6.5 +34 offset These wheels look seriously good no matter what car they are on, bigger doesn't necessarily mean better. Will fit R30 Skylines perfectly, should be fine for R31 and most Datsuns. Could be drilled out to also accept 4x100 pcd quite easily These wheels are very light, perfect for reducing unsprung weight. No gutter rash at all. Black paint is slightly flakey on a couple of spots on a couple of the wheels Tyres aren't great, one pair are ok, the other pair are decidedly lacklustre. http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC00248.jpg http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC00247.jpg http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC00246.jpg http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC00245.jpg 1 set of 4 Longchamp XR4's, multipiece, 4x114.3pcd, 15x7 +11 offset Perfect 'old-school Jap' style, a bit of dish and a heap of drift heritage. Perfect fit for AE86, AE71/KE71 and possibly other rwd Corollas, Fits rear of R30 Skyline perfectly, will fit front fine with a small spacer to allow the callipers to clear, this should also be true for R31. Fits Triumph saloons perfectly Not overly light, but not heavy No gutter scrapes Tyres are reasonably good on these http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC04635.jpg http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/Ada...ub/DSC04636.jpg $800 a set, negotiable. Pricey... Yeah. But the RS8's are very light and the Longchamps have a kickarse offset and a dont fcuk with me look I'm not fussed whether they sell with or without the tyres, I'm happy to get them taken off to make interstate freight cheaper, and happy to deliver them to a Busfreight depot. www.busfreight.com.au For a rough guide on shipping costs, factor on anywhere from 20kg to 30kg for a set of 4 wheels without tyres Best way to get in contact would be to email me bilzy at internode.on.net

Parts for a DR30 aren't very expensive (except oil pumps) and my DR30 was far nicer than friends AE86's. Definitely go the DR30, indestructible engine as long as you keep the sump off the oil pickup, tough rear end and it doesnt have a trailer axle in the back

http://www.rs-watanabe.co.jp/userspage/oono-dr30.htm soooooooo tough

Ghostrider is right about Sir Jack being a great guy, he still has time for true enthusiests

Nup, I also realised how god-awful it was to drive in the hills compared to the MX5. I used to think the DR30 felt pretty good, but after a week with a real sports car, the DR felt really really really sloppy. I'll have to give you a drive some time Shane, its the most amazing thing to drive in the hills. Could do with a non turbo FJ20 though

Just went for a ride (and a drive) in the DR30, he's had ET do a 2.5-3 inch dump pipe and junked the cat, and farrrrrk does it make a difference

Give up? I got the bloody alternator back in there Didnt put the plug in properly and it burnt itself out when the plug fell out, but I put it back in. Sold it to a friend, the guy that bought Paul's Paul Newman a while ago, he wants to put a big turbo on it and stuff like that. I bought his MX5 Clubman. Missing the FJ20 power, but I'm happy with it.... Just gotta keep telling myself that...

Alternator went back in today, ran fine Then I sold the DR30

OG Speed Shop, OG Road Klemzig

Got it out, alternator is at the auto electricians atm, should have it back on Friday hopefully. Ended up dropping the splash guard under the car instead of taking that bracket off

Wasnt done at Jaustech, my mechanic did it. It was making 17 volts when it was revved, so the regulator does need to be done, but yeah, I think theres something weird going on aswell thats draining it... but it would have to be something to do with the wiring that they touched as nothing else was touched before it flattened the batteries overnight. I do think it cooked the first one though. Friday... Working from 5 I think

I've never had any battery drain problems until after they did the alternator wiring and since then its drained two batteries... no alarm, no lights or anything were on, face of the deck wasnt in the car so the deck couldnt have been on... what else can use power? I'm fairly sure the interior fan switched off when I last stopped the car. I undid the two bolts on the tensioner thing b7ut nothing would budge after it was undone

I must be a retard... I cant even get the belt to loosen. Tried undoing the bolts on what I think is the tensioner and then tried to get the body of the alternator to swing around but no luck. Theres also some part of the air con or something above it, do I need to remove that aswell? Oh, and I put a brand new battery in it the other day, its bloody dead flat and I only ran the engine with it in it for a short time Something weird is going on with this car

Do I need to drop the radiator hose?

New battery, still making 16+ volts... Bloody mechanic swore to me that it was charging at the correct rate So its off the road till I get the alternator out... but its too damn hot to do it Does anyone have any hints for getting it out of the car with minimal fuss?

Just went and checked, lights werent left on yesterday.... Only bought that battery a couple of months ago

oh ffs...... they said it was fixed when I picked the car up yesterday, they fully charged the battery, then when I went to start it just now the battery was COMPLETELY dead Grrrrr..... Not even enough juice to run the interior light

Does anyone in Adelaide have their dash cluster out of the car atm, or a spare cluster? I want to try plugging a known good cluster in to my loom to see if the dash lights playing up is something to do with my cluster or the car. Alternator is working fine, wiring to the alternator has been replaced (battery light now never comes on) but the other lights (radiator, door, brake fluid, windscreen washer, foglights) still come on when the engine is running Cheers

I think you should be looking at around 8 as a starting point for a nice unmolested one. I paid a bit less than 9 for mine, I then had to get everything done to register it which ended up being about $1200 I think. I think DR30s are old enough now that they arent seen as being worth less than say a R31 or R32 because theyre older, theyre more of an interesting alternative to a R32 or 33

Good luck finding anyone that will sell for 5k lol

How much are you looking at spending?

If the coolant leaked out quickly enough then you probably wouldnt have seen the temp guage go up much, once the coolant is gone the guage cant't get a reading from air so it just shows cold, even though the engine would be getting really hot with no coolant flowing

Ok, I've got the model number of the alternator, do I just ring auto electricians and see if they have regulators to suit? And how hard is it to change the regulator, is it something I could manage on my home or is it a a drive in, drive out candidate

My lights are dim as hell, I thought it was getting buggerall voltage, thats why I thought the alternator was stuffed