Adam_RSX

Oil pump ended up being in decent condition. Ordered new rod and main bearings (they were a little worn but may as well do them), full gasket set, new chain tensioners and a genuine oil filter or two from God (better known as Stuart Wilkins) The FJ looks even tougher with the rocker cover off than it does with it on! The sump ended up being pretty much undamaged, the pics I took must have had weird lighting because its pretty much fine though it does look like the pickup had hit the sump.

Mine is going to the workshop today. Well its meant to be... The frigging truck was meant to be here at 9am, its 12:10pm now and still no truck in sight. Anyone have a spare sump btw?

That would be Amadio you're talking about? Parents acted as guarantors to sons bank loans, he went under, bank wanted to take their house, they won because they showed they hadn't understood what they were signing. Personally I can't see anything wrong with that R32, blemishes are noted and pictured, the surface rust in the spare wheel well is fine, easy repair. No boot lining and spare wheel... boo hoo Its obviously ex-drift and any potential buyer can see thats its not in A1 condition, and nor is it represented to be in A1 condition. There doesnt appear to be anything obvious that wouldnt allow it to drive well, . The bonnet does have a dent on the leading edge but the gaps on the sides are good. Not everyone gives a toss what their car looks like, I never wash my DR30 and I havent bothered to fix any blemishes because I just don't care. Up until it put a rock into the sump it drove nicely and thats all that matters, paint is only used on cars to stop the metal from rusting. If you tidied it up a little that would be a piece of piss to register under the 15 year rule, if I had the money I'd have bought it

OUCH!!!!! No oil pumps in stock in Australia.... $1500 to get one from Japan

On the truck with TOLL will be cheap as, cars going to Adelaide get backloading prices, cheap as because the trucks that take Magnas and Commodores interstate have to come back to move more sub-standard SA built cars. They won't let you freight the car with anything inside it though

My FJ is hopefully going to my mechanic next week to get the sump reshaped, bearings done and possibly the oil pump replaced if my gears and housing are cacked. They havent done a FJ before though and wanted to know if I could hunt down the settings for everything in the bottom end, it doesnt seem to be in the engine manual scans. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Adam

Are these still available Duncan?

You can get the main kit shells with the decals and stuff. Otherwise you can do your own paint job on a normal shell and you can buy decal sets. Yeah, they pretty much work ok out of the box, even a normal MR4TC with tape on the wheels works pretty well

Err... dude you can buy them in Australia. basically a MR4TC kit with different tyres and a few different bits plus the D1 shells

Mine sounded ok inside, but outside apparently not

Just want to know if they have rear arms and the bit the arms bolt on to... may have bent an arm, may have bent the brackets

Yes Hopefully get the oil return fitted and the manifold studs changed before I put it in the car, then I can change it to turbo later

Yeah, they look reasonably similar Ghostrider - I'm probably going to stick a PI donk in it soon, we've got a few spare, just cant be bothered changing the tank and fuel lines atm. I would just go for a TC or S engine for the extra torque over the 2 litre, but if I'm going to do it I want it to sound good... and sticking filters on each throttle on a PI engine and junking the standard plennum makes a fantastic noise, its rorty, growly and just generally fantastic. Plus we've got them down to a fine art now, basically never have problems because we get the guy in Sydney that tunes the mechanical injection metering units for the Forumla 5000 and Historic Touring car guys to do the units and send them back. Only problem is injector 5 sometimes getting an air lock, just leave the engine running, pop the bonnet, pull the injector out and tap it a few times with a spanner, then stick it back in That said the FJ20E is appealing as it will rev a bit more, probably be lighter and will sit back a bit more Edit - Oh, and as to where the engine came from, as far as I know its just an extended version of the Triumph / Standard 4 cylinder (which was a Massey Ferguson tractor engine) but with a narrower bore? Could have been the same as the Vanguard six?

Thats nice! My old man had one in the 70's and one of his mates had a number of them You may find this interesting... (Front springs are on order, waiting for them to be delivered) It may get a FJ20 eventually if I get my turbo engine repaired and have the NA and box left over

My FJ was even more trucklike than an SR according to my friends... They may have been bullshitting me as I never heard it from outside, but thats how they described it NA will be fun, and noisey

That'd be great if you could have a look while you're there

I havent looked yet, was waiting until I had a running engine in it, might go see whether the local wreckers have any 5 door R30's

Yeah, I was figuring it would HAVE to sound better... FJ20ET's sound even worse than SR20's So a 3 inch works ok? Maybe I wont have to change to my pissy exhaust after all.....

Yeah that would be great, I was just going to keep quiet about it as I'd rather see someone take the entire car off your hands and rebuild it than take a few bits off it and scrap it, but if no-one buys it the arms, particularly the rhs would be useful to me. Is the bit that bolts the diff onto the shell the same on a wagon as my coupe? I may have bent that, I pushed the car backwards out the shed and while that exaservated the toe out on the right rear (its jacked the car up on that side pretty much) the left rear wheel has pushed out at the back a bit, so either I was running toe in on the back before I smacked the right side, and its that toe in which is making the left wheel pop out a bit when I pushed it backwards, OR I've knocked the diff across... I didnt think that was possible, especially given that it wasnt an overly hard 'crash' (hairpin on a dirt/gravel road, swung out slightly too far and put the right rear into the dirt embankment on the side of the road) but atm it looks like the left wheel is sitting out, right wheel is sitting in, though it could just be the result of the current alignment and me pushing it backwards

My DR is going NA on sidedraughts in a few weeks I will get an oil return fitted and plugged and change the manifold studs to 12mm as well though, so if need be I can just bolt my ET manifolds onto the E engine

Hahahahahhahahahahahahahaha no. A guy that lived in the house behind mine had a mint white over white PNV, he could only get 4 or 5 for it when he sold it

Has anyone here run a FJ20E in a DR? Just wondering whether they feel significantly down on power compared to a stock FJ20ET?

Yep, someone make a mould of the front bar!!!!!!

any idea on what freight to Adelaide would be on the rear arms to Adelaide? I've bent something, possibly the rhs rear arm

Ah, my Racing S rims are 16*7 front +32 and 16*8 rear +32 Not a fantastic looking wheel, but theyre functional... they fit my RE55Ss quite nicely