drunkenmaster

No worries, I will ask my friend and get back to you. where in Vic are you based?

Is the bar fit a series 1? Thanks

Pic to [email protected] please Colour? Thanks

I have brand new 200ZR sump and oil pickup for sale which is required to fit an RB to most nissan/datsun Z's. I also have engine mounts to suit. $700 the lot.

Location?

Solder is not used due to lead content and longer process time. Regular hand crimp tools from any electronics shop will do along with a touch of solder to make up for the weaker hand force compared to machine force. All connectors I can think of use plastic locking tabs, some more than one. The only tool you "need" is a long pin to unlock the tab and pull the terminal out using the wire from the rear. Some connectors will have retaining clips on the side of the housing which you will need to pry open first. Nissan themselves dont make the connectors but may sell them marked up as P&A, it will likely be tyco, or possibly sumitomo or yazaki who supplies them. Tyco have a relatively useful website where you can search, but due to the shear amount of automotive connectors it will be tough. I am also not sure if they sell retail. Petroject or similar EFI stores have already done the homework for you and would be the easiest but you will pay their margin. There is nothing wrong with cutting up a used loom.

Thanks for the info, I have attached a photo of a bearing I was supplied, is this what you were referring to? As for the seal, is this a solid gasket or liquid sealant? Thanks

OK guys, This is my clutch and flywheel on my RB30 block, and here is my RB25DET box which I wish to fit. Going by the photos and any prior experience you guys may have, are there any tricks or traps for young players like myself who are doing this for the first time? Should anything be replaced at this point in time? Thanks

If you do go for a full respray (ie. bare metal) then I recommend you sandblast as i did on my car below: http://www.teamazm.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4063 I did a previous car by hand and will never waste that kind of time and effort again.

Do you know of any further info on this, preferably with pics of clearance issues. Thanks

Probably the least techincal question asked in this thread, but here goes: I went to fit my RB30DET on the weekend and realised I dont have the engine mount to block bolts. Does anyone know what width, length and thread pitch these are suppose to be so I can buy some replacements? More bolts I noticed I was short on were the oil sump to block bolts, does any one know the sizes of these as well?

Dammit, the killer whale was the one thing I wanted to see when I went to Nagoya Port before christmas and it was the one animal in isolation when I was there.

I dont think the ECU needs a power cable upgrade.

I registered an unregistered car last year, all vicroads looked at was the chassis and block numbers.

I am interested to know more about this and your opinions. Also I am interested to hear from anyone who has had their R32 RB20DET/RB25DE ECU remapped in Melbourne and where.

Is the head unit running the cabin speakers or the amp? Reasons the amp will go into protection? Its getting too hot. Resons its getting too hot? Your running a lower speaker impedance than it designed for? Your ground cable is too small? The amp has no ventialtion? etc etc

Yeh, akihabara was bit of an american tourist trap. I ended up getting my camera almost $100 cheaper just at one of the big electronic chain stores. I cant remember the names, but there are 2 big ones which compete feircely with each other, we just said the other store had it for this price and they slashed it.

the difference is everything between the flywheel and the rear wheels.

If your modifylng an L series car, I would always head straight to a P90head/F54block L28 regardless of whether you run it with EFI, EFI turbo or triple webbers.

Running speaker lines next to power cables will have little effect on "hiss". Running RCA's next to power cables runs you the rish of introducing "alternator whine", which is different to "hiss". Conclusion: Run RCA's.

Is it a similar car to the Z? If so, the L series sump has the bowl at the rear, the RB series has it at the front. Need a new sump if this is the case, I am importing some brand new 200ZR rear bowl RB sumps for my conversion. L series gearboxes will not suit the RB without bellhousing mods, not worthwhile when RB20 boxes are as cheap. I thought R30's had long nose R200's.

Keep the EFI loom and body loom seperate.

If its stock then you wouldnt need to reflash it as nothing would be wrong with it?

If you on a tight budget by the best 4 channel amp you can afford, aim for 4x75-100W RMS. It would be a waste of time buying a 800W nominal speaker if you only have 250-350W RMS to power it, so I would look for a more efficient speaker, perhaps with a nominal power rating half of what you are looking at. At the end of the day however speaker power rating will not mean much to you at all, I would be more concerned about the sound of the speakers you choose. The 4 channel amp will allow you to run a sub and your front splits, less cost, wiring and hastle than running multiple amps.

airport courier = courier to the airport :wassup: I just did it this morning, 2000Yen for a 30kg suitcase from Toyota to Narita, not bad at all.