Badgaz

what you'll find is that the manufacturers dead times should be used as guidance only....you can hear when you have the latency wrong and adding more fuel will not make this better...it'll just change the afr's. I would suggest adjusting the dead time correction untill you get a decent idle...you can do this with the car running. e.g my 850cc side fed injectors had a written latency difference of 0.26 but i found 0.31 was the better point...dead times will change with the age of the injectors also. A tuner could set this best for you using an FCdatalogit. The hand controller may not allow going past 1 but the fcedit software can. The other way to do this is to change the inj latecy vs battv. 0.528 is the 14volt latency for factory but is your car running over 14volts at idle....something to check.

Better still, go and do some of the high performance academy training courses at www.Learntotune.com

You could always lift the lid... Take pictures and ask here or on the nistune forum.

Its probably what you'd called in the industry a RMA product.... Could've been send back to manufacturer as faulty and remanufactured to original specification. If you know what you are looking at you can tell if it's been fiddled with.

you'll probably find the ECU is stock....easy enough to check.

that looks interesting....looks like an interceptor...old school...you could probably crack the lid on your ecu and see if the chip has been removed and put into a removable socket.

thats what i'd call lazy tuning.... 'edit' took the wrong quote....meant to respond to this one. Isn't this why some tuners turn the CAS all the way advanced or retarded and then compensate for it in the ECU? So people can't just spin it willy-nilly and adjust the timing?

based on my logging I've found the idle control does.... I don't have 15 degrees set anywhere on my map yet log monitor shows 15 at idle.

Yes, idle control can effect final timing on pfc. Disconnect tps and set your base timing to match what the powerfc shows on the monitor.

Base timing is critical when setting a tune(or in general really), if you're CAS has physically changed position that could tell you something.

Another option is to run a volt meter from AFM to in car and watch that

Yeah the data looks fine and your shown us all your other fuel corrections..... AFM... Noticed someone is having a sale on afms in the for sale section.

Yeah that will help... It all will.

Google apexi have the installation instructions on there Web site

Do u ship to nz?

you can download the universal power fc-edit software off the web. download that and plug your values into that, might be better.....then you can just save the tune file and send me that.....but change your AFM first.

It's one way to look at it but you need to know what correction values equate to lambda values or stoich. This can be done but is usually what your tuner will do when seeing your base fuel map. On the power fc 100 equals 100% of the stock value. There is another page where you set your injector correction factor. Like I said earlier if you can be bothered sending me your recorded values I can take a look for you.... To see if there aren't any blaring issues.

when you get your wideband kit do some logging....if its as rich as you say it is then you'll see 10's on the afr gauge.....the fact your map trace on your commander jumps cells still leads me to believe the AFM is a bit bung....

yes but what you'll find is only having 1 venturi or flute to try and create enough vacuum to remove the crank case pressure is not enough and why the pressure is building in the crankcase and popping out the dipstick. There are 2 breathers off the top of the cam covers....you need at least this piping volume to evacuate the crankcase pressure, on factory setup they join them and plum them into the intake in front of the turbo which creates the vacuum necessary and also meets the emission controls for being legal.

they didn't look too bad but as XKLABA says they are just a sign of the problem. would still love to see a youtube video of the perceived problem.

FWIW The pcv is only evacuating blow by that is on idle/cruise i.e vacuum....when putting more pressure in the crankcase by way of rpm and boost the cam breathers are doing the most ventilation.....just plug up the pcv valve and use the cam cover breathers to a catch can if you have no legal issues with emissions control.

jeez sux to be in aussie land.

Lol! yeah quite correct... it did work kinda but if your oil air seperator isn't up to the task you just draw through oil vapour and make a nice smokey exhaust. i still have one connected....but my issue was not ventilating enough i.e venting through a size smaller than the two 5/8 vents off the cam covers effectively pressurizing my catch can.

Get rid if it and vent to atmo. I have tried it and it sucked.

well after you've checked everything electrical, time to start checking everything mechanical.