Badgaz

water/meth injection? 60/70ish probably isn't too bad but you should have a listen with some knock ears if you can to see if its detonation or just some other driveline noise thats being picked up....

anyone tried these? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=766024038

thank you time machine

What is the turbo you are running in this ? ^^

if you are keen....type all your fuel and ign map out in excel, 3d graph it.

if anything just make sure your base timing is set correctly. the default powerfc map will be fine. Just make sure you run through its first time startup procedure with your z32 selected before you start and presumably after you've installed it. Stock map has lots of fuel and near stock timing...like the others have said...just drive it sensibly to the tuner and you'll be fine.

What turbo did u get?

yeah but they'd be easier to fix. his mixtures will will be richer for a short time when he closed the throttle....could be sorted out whenever he wanted.

i'd say try a larger BOV that vents to atmosphere with a softer spring pressure....keep the airflow going in the one direction....feel sorry for you guys in Aussie with all your legal drama.

what size and type is your BOV?

i think what he was meaning was that it will go Richer and Retard timing the further down the load points anyway....

the power fc is fine...but the cons with the powerfc is that it doesn't have on board logging....but you have the handy controller which allows making changes without laptop, they are easy for tuners to tune. ... just think about what your end goal with your car is....what GTSboy said is spot on...the MAFless ecu's take more time to tune properly as you have to do corrections that a MAF system will automatically do for you.... FWIW i started learning with a Powerfc and now i kinda wish i had a Link G4....hindsight is 20/20 if you can be patient and save the money then a link or equivalent that allows retention of MAF would be the way to go IMO.

Larger bov required? is this why other cars utilize flapper type afms?

considering the jump in cells i'd say either tps or afm. CAS does not directly affect a/f ratios....its governs spark. its cheap and easy enough to change tps...i'd start there. another consideration is maf reversion.

Decay time is duration and the first column is the amount to squirt. Duration shouldnt need changing. Can you video what it's doing?

If you load the motor up you will hit areas of the map that might not have been tuned on the dyno for...... Which would be weird seeing as that is the usually why you would use a dyno, unless the dyno used didn't have a brake. Detonation is either too much cylinder pressure or too much heat remaining in the cylinders(small turbine cant evac heat fast enough)

These are probably the default powerfc settings....

you have to adjust these like any fuel trims with a wide band. you can log and see the effect of enrichment when lift off and mashing the pedal, this is what a tuner would do if they are doing a complete tune.

i run my car with the o2 turned off permanently. those injector settings looks like stock settings. mine are attached but are for 850cc injectors....but they still make it fairly rich. starting to sound like your tune didn't take everything into account. e.g wot & cruise only.

A shame u don't live in nzwould have the datalogit plugged in and checked by now.... I'm beginning to suspect tune. Did they do your accelerator pump corrections if they were left stock it will go mega rich on gear changes.... Mine was going to the 9s before i tuned it out.

idle hunting is usually because mixtures are too lean or your AAC valve is rooted and needs some love.... have you cleaned your afm and resoldered any dry joints?

there is no need to mess with the water temp correction. when you do a map trace which load rows are you reaching? i'm wondering if your calibration for your AFM has been messed with....have you tried running with another z32 afm?

at least with a MAF it'd be obvious you have small air leak or large....with map it'd be less obvious.

^^^yes you can.

i'm still putting my money on your AFM. its reaching its maximum voltage threshold....which is probably why your engine checklight is flashing.