Badgaz

one that has your power curve, fueling, and MAP.

Do you have a full dyno readout?

Ive got some base maps for stock rb26dett. Pm me your mod list and map and ill see if i can help.

yeah it'd probably take a frickin age to fill the intake with air from a bike pump lol...especiallly if you do actually have a leak. i did mine at home with a baked bean tin can (yes it worked but not the best idea) and then pluged my air compressor into where the boost controller feed comes of the intake piping and pressurized the intake from there. the TPS will be difficult...at idle it looks like its showing you the right voltage..i think its a variable resistor...so if it has some crud or junk messing with the mating surfaces it could give you an inconsistent resistance at the points you are having the problem, its easy enough to replace one of those...they have to show between 0.4-0.5volts at idle.

i presume you were spraying soapy water to find a vacuum/boost leak....you would be better to do this properly, using a bike pump and blocking off the turbo mouth and putting a brick on the accelerator pedal. it could also be a problem with the tps, some dirt may have got in there....

i had this problem in my old VL commy....turned out to be the AFM....next time it happens and doesn't start try starting the car without the afm connected.

the car has greddy suspension but its non height adjustable and only adjustable dampening...stockish suspension actually works better due to giving you better squat. i'll get the ladder out and have a look at them...its been over 10 years since we bought them and i can't remember,

trap speed will give you indication.

given your mofifications i'd say its time for a new ecu so that you can actually accomodate for your current modifications correctly and so that you can change your AFM and set your injector information correctly....how have you done this with the s2 ecu?

ugh....tuning with the handcontroller bites balls. buy a datalogit. Or if you are in auckland NZ give me a bell....can pull the tune information for you.

yeah that makes sense....just no sense to have the enable rpm setting. might have to read a nistune manual.

had a look at the tune map, vtc rpm enable =4700rpm, vtc rpm cut=5500rpm. ....seems weird to me...isn't vtc meant to be on much earlier?

is the tps set correctly?.....has your injector latency been set correctly? my injectors would not idle and missfire when i don't have the injector latency set correctly.

just a thought...but have you check your tps is showing between 0.4 and 0.5 volts when throttle is closed i.e at idle? what idle air control are you running on it? factory AAC? was the nistune actually setup for the injectors? - edit realized this has already been asked by kiwirs4t

also i would like to input that cleaning your coils is important part of preventative maintainence. as shown in this video....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qirx_G4x5i0 i've fixed three sets of deemed stuffed coils and this has worked everytime.....its not always the spark plugs or gap. i've also gone back to a copper plug from iridium and also gone from 0.6mm gap back to 0.8mm

Yeah true the looms get brittle, Also be sure the earth on your injector loom is fastened where it should be.

^^well described!!. still ....you're more likely to find a dildo gear stick in an evo....just sayin.

hmmm i remember how much skin and oil mess i made doing the GTR last oil change...its a bitch....hate it....its either change spark plugs and injectors easier or oil.....which one do you change more frequently..... if i want 1 million jiggy watts then i might go ffp...but for street...why change....also once you get good at removing your J pipe doing plugs is a breeze.

what are your spark plugs and what gap are they? also clean your coil packs with contact cleaner....they get quite dirty over time and the dirt/carbon allows the electricity to short up the coil pack to the closest grounding point. you can pull the silicon boots off your coils so you can clean them separately in warm soapy water. I did this on my original factory coils that i replaced with my split fires and they work fine again. This is the video i used to figure out what to do. spark plugs should be 0.7mm-0.8mm try those two things and see if they help.

search around others have had similar problems. use google to search this site.

we'd pull the fuse and run 2wd drive only...running in turbo 2wd class.

Unless its godzilla.....if we're going to go all fast and furious on this..... the skyline GTR will outlaunch the mitsi evo every time. I don't know how many times i watched my wife dispatch evo's to the 60ft. But GTS-t a different story.

mitsi lancers have a crapola interior....i wouldn't get one because of that (irrespective of seats)....not plush like a liner....

my advice....spend the extra money to get a kit that will fit and bolt up properly....greedy, blitz etc are good....its better to be patient and get the right one than to buy a lemon.

not necessarily....they can flap about at low boost..make a ticking sound...then squeel like a piggy at high boost.