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Badgaz

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Everything posted by Badgaz

  1. the M/T et streets will fit on the stock GTR rims...we used 11.5" wide slicks... i'll upload a pic of them when i get home.
  2. the default map usually has way too much fuel and a little too much ignition timing.....take your time....at least you have nice long straight roads out your way
  3. should get there with injectors and tune then.
  4. i guess a slight benefit for the power fc is you get the commander which means you can check functions and monitor up to 8 things at once....what sort of powerfc is it? djetro or standard?
  5. yep thats pretty much where i started...i have a powerfc in my r33 and my wifes r32 gtr. feel free to flick me your maps/logs if you want another eye cast over them, i have a datalogit also.
  6. nistune vs powerfc is 6 in 1 half a doz in the other....you need the tools first..... for nistune you need the cable and software (which is licensed to the nistune serial i believe) the Powerfc will need either the Power Excel software (crap to get) or the FC datalogit. after that you need a way to measure Air fuel ratio and to listen to knock levels (detonation) the powerfc will still show you what the factory sensors are picking up....if you are getting knock you will most likely have to reduce timing. a dyno is still more accurate for tuning but these tools will get you in the ball park and most of the way there....fuel mapping first then ignition timing.
  7. i would recommend if you have some spare coin to get the tuning tools you'd need and learn to do it yourself. follow some of the courses over at www.learntotune.com . at that distance you'd spend that much money in travel... I assume running nistune you are still running MAF's if so these should handle your temperature change...but running higher boost will put you in a different and possibly untuned area of your map....
  8. if it runs better cold this could lead me to think that you have mixtures good with water temp correction....and they lean out when the corrections reduce as the water temp increases. as previously stated if you have the cable and software do some logging. checking mixtures would be a good idea....do you have a wideband?
  9. You need to filter out all the other noise with a high pass filter 6.5khz I believe.... Are you using a home brew knock detection amp?
  10. if you vent to atmo you need to make sure your catch can has venting size same as the inlet size e.g 2 x 5/8 fittings for inlet & outlet otherwise your catch can will pressurize. i also tried this system on my car but didn't really have any success with it... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4387972-Bypassing-PCV-and-routing-to-exhaust-description-(DIY)-(long)
  11. could you put the z32 into a larger tube? i think the z32 still has better resolution than that q45.
  12. is there a factory vent from the sump or do you need to drill and tap one? if you use a drain from your catch can it should be below the oil level in the sump to stop it blowing back up.
  13. Link g4+ do you wish to data log or input wideband? The hot wire mass air flow sensors could be affected by the temps if they aren't on the suction side of the turbo from my thinking..... But others may have a proven answer
  14. you have me a little confused...crank case ventilation happens at the top of the motor out the existing breathers....which if they are not evacuating the pressure fast enough could be causing too much crankcase pressure....i'm not sure what or why you would vent your sump....normally that is the return for the oil caught in the catch can.
  15. this is why i'm learning to tune engines, whilst i said the science or principals are the same, considerations need to be made to what you are tuning and how. e.g higher compression less advance.....the money bit is why i'll probably never tune professionally....its great fun learning and its just a hobby for me.... tuned a Autech n15 pulsar today.....yes it still goes.
  16. Please do tell me....whats the big difference? the science is the same the variables and tolerances can differ....which is why most tuners won't tune to the limit.....the tuner might not be wasting his time ...but he could be wasting your time.
  17. whats your thinking for running two? if you want to be more precise with the tune of your car then i'd run individual egt on each exhaust manifold runner.
  18. hmm i just think i'd never expect a tuner to do these things....after all you take a car to a tuner to set the tune for your modifications...if you don't even know what those modifications are then you can be wasting your time...but in the same token the tuner doesn't need to know when tuning because he/she will find the limitations with the tools they use. e.g knock limited engine. Most of the time tuners usually end up telling customers to go and buy/replace stuff that they find is the restriction limiting there performance potential....hence probably why he suggested the AFM's in this case.
  19. why would they go looking for forged pistons? tuners aren't going to waste time doing that......they don't need to if they have the right tools to tune the car properly.
  20. i'm with blackkers there....learn lots from it and put money aside to drop an rb25det into it...i've seen GTR's embarrassed by gts-t's with this motor in them..... if you don't like that then save money to replace these items all at once....go for power mods first lol once you have these you will realize quicker that you need uprated brakes and suspension. Fuel pump $200 Injectors $800 Intercooler $700 turbo $1500 then Tune. $600-$1000
  21. were you running that much boost before you got the car tuned? and what ecu does it have?
  22. ?? its the shape of the intake... more air is going into the 6th cylinder due to the intake design..which means they typically run leaner...which means hotter.
  23. when you say woolies....you don't mean woolworths right? or do you?
  24. well you have 2 options.... 1. do what the guys say with the stock one....which has proven to work by them. 2. buy an aftermarket recirc bov.
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