Badgaz

Yes the result is on 98 octane PULP. the real word driving is pretty good actually, i've since changed to a hypergear atr43ss2 which i find better suits my driving style....the high flow turbo makes positive boost pressure really early which can sometimes be annoying on slight inclines etc when you lift off a little as the bov has a hard time staying shut. we had to take a fair bit of timing out as the rear housing is quite small and induced knock when the timing was too high. my high flow was built by a friend who worked here in NZ for deisel services ltd rebuilding turbos...he's since moved to Australia. Hypergear i would highly recommend.

i went cheap for purely interests sake and a bit of research and just changing the factory dump to a chinese split dump made a dyno proven 5kw gain.....not everything that is cheap is useless.

yep...that'll work...here are my results with my factory high flow. z32 powerfc 850cc injectors chinese split dump high flow factory turbo gtr fuel pump chinese blitz return flow FMIC copy. full 3" exhaust from dump pipe back 1 x resonator 1 x straight through muffler

Take the actuator off and hold the Wastegate open with some wire.... Would that help?

did you fiddle with dwell time on the coil?

i had an example of this where i'd put my boost controller back together with the out hose on the in and the in on the out.

depending on the specification of the turbo i think its possible to achieve that power figure...the factory manifold will need modification to space it away from the rocker cover as the front cover is quite large. i'd also suggest searching the rb25 dyno thread for holset and having a look at some results.

i'll give it a try...i've bought some 10mm spacers and i also have a gktech cooling panel...its not very scientific as i really only watch water temp....but i usually pop the engine bay after a long drive and it will be interesting to see if everything is still as hot to touch (obviously not the really hot bits)

has anybody tried bonnet spacers?

^^ thats not a bad price where from?

Thought i'd share my information about some knock off copy intercoolers and document the things i've observed upon observing the differences. I realize i may be preaching to the converted here. not easy to spot straight away which is genuine Now it should be more obvious 63mm inlet and blitz core 50mm inlet and copy core Blitz core thickness larger copy core covered up with cheap plate there are 15 cooling fin rows on the blitz core and 14 tubes for the charge air to flow through. on the copy there are 13 cooling fin rows and 12 tubes i'm trying to get my car to 300rwkw currently on 98 octane and with the copy intercooler it was 284kw. Here's hoping its the restriction.

just FYI - it would be a good idea to clean up the earth connections on the coil harness at this time as they get dirty and covered in crap over time.

has anybody successfully fitted an 26" x 11.5" mickey thompson ET street radial 16" drag slick to an r33? if so what offset wheel did you use? i want to try and fit these under my r33. attached is the pic of them fitted with GTR rims.

But maxing the injector not the value as i understood it at the top end of the map.

i'm not talking about the map values i'm talking about the injector sizing value.

have you tried changing the injector scaling at idle so it achieves the correct lambda and then correcting the rest of the map?

43psi is what you want though isn't it? and the return line should cope with the amount of fuel being bypassed at idle.

'copied from high performance academy on facebook' What’s a billet compressor wheel and why should you care? As with many things in our industry, the term ‘billet compressor wheel’ has become a popular buzz word yet many people don’t know what it means, what it refers to and why they may or may not need it. With more and more turbo manufacturers offering billet compressor wheels for their higher specced turbos, it’s worth finding out what this technology means to you. In a conventional turbocharger the compressor wheel is usually cast from aluminium, but many would be surprised to learn that the material and the manufacturing method have almost nothing to do with the amount of airflow (and consequently power) a turbo can produce. The compressor’s airflow potential is solely down to the shape and size of the compressor wheel. With this in mind it’s possible to create exactly the same compressor wheel shape using either a casting or machining process and if the physical design is the same, the airflow potential of the wheel will be the same - There is no magic just because the billet wheel is shiny. So why are billet wheels popping up everywhere if there are no advantages? Well we didn’t say there aren’t advantages. The advantages just aren’t what most people think they are so let’s look deeper. One genuine advantage from a billet wheel is that it is stronger than a cast wheel. Now this isn’t going to mean much to most people on the street, after all when was the last time your compressor wheel just plain fell apart? If you’re a serious drag racer though and you’re planning on running upwards of 80 psi boost, then the billet material can provide a strength and reliability advantage. The real reason that billet wheels have become so popular though is that it provides turbo manufacturers much more flexibility in bringing new compressor wheel designs to market quickly. The casting process in comparison is expensive for a low volume production and time consuming. Billet designs however can be manufactured in minimal numbers very rapidly on cnc mills. This is critical in the prototyping and validation process, allowing manufacturers to test a wide range of wheels and select the best performing. We aren’t here to knock billet compressor wheels as this technology along with the cost and time advantages for manufacturers to bring new designs to market has seen some huge improvements in turbo performance over the last 5 years. It’s important to know what you’re buying and why. If you swap out a cast compressor wheel for an identical billet compressor wheel and expect to pick up 100 hp, you’re going to be sorely disappointed. If you're interested in learning more about EFI Tuning, check out our catalogue of online courses here: https://courses.learntotune.com/school/catalog/

tighten the bov spring if it has adjustment.

read the link i posted in page 2 it helped me understand what GTSboy was saying and why i was wrong about oil being thicker....i don't think people are bashing you. 90% of what people are running isn't 75 weight.

Hey John, was wondering...that torque figure is MASSIVE do you think its accurate?

take a video....lets have a squiz

depends really doesn't it? if you spend that money on the parts how much would 2 rebuilds cost to be installed and balanced by a turbo builder? $500-600? probably alot cheaper than 2 new turbo's?? i'm not saying you guys are wrong i'm just saying they might be a good option for someone on a budget.

Trying to see what these are, they don't look stock.

Have you tried any fixes offered yet?